stprasinz

is the 2+2 manual rack somehow different? The headers you linked to look like they run the same way as a set of huggers? does the steering shaft have to be relocated?

Ok, I bought the jtr motor mount adapters, and setbacks, I made the transmission mount (so simple). What I am wondering is what headers fit? Do I need to buy the body spacers? I don't see them helping, as my block huggers won't even come close to bolting on, as the steering shaft is RIGHT there.... I searched, and I searched, so don't say I didn't do that... the 90* .66 gear reduction blah blah blah that jtr sells is out, and I don't find anything similar anywhere? is that the missing link? I have a 96 small block chevy 350, converted to carb, I have a smaller, gear reduction starter, and 4l60e trans, and the stuff that doesn't matter, edelbrock performer intake, holley 600 4160 carb, hei (new billet) dizz, long water pump, and a 1 wire alt the only thing I can see to do to aleviate the issue is to run the headers upside down? But I am pretty sure doing so would require a hole in the hood, which I would rather not! I also have a set of camaro (82-92) headers I will try tommorrow, they may work well reversed? I have a headache, so work was little today which is why I hadn't tried the camaro headers already! anyway, any help would be greatly appreciated

.007" maximum , .015" shims under towers, and shave .020"? I've shaved something like .070 off? or something I forget now, but added a set of shims someone offered, and increased the compression, but that was a turbo motor, with dish pistons.. eitherway, good luck...

As long as the fuel pump can keep up at full boost (every psi of boost is 1 psi of additional fuel pressure) so, add the amount of boost you are running to know the maximum fuel pressure you are running. And as far as negatves, other than I just listed, until the point your running so much pressure you slow the injector opening time, or worse even yet, lock the injector entirely, there are only positives... When I install the 2 parralel walboros I'm gonna run about 55-58 psi of base out of 440 injectors... should result in better idle from the atomozation, and more hp potential from more fuel... and i think base pressure of factory is 44 psi... so 45 would be negligable, and 50 would be slight improvement, and should be simple to tune it back. And may even benefiet from better idle, but you'll have to retune the idle, not just by math, but a basic start over for it. good luck, and you should be happy with the final results!

remove the threaded nut off the top, and remove the strut cartridge the nut is the LARGE nut just below the "shiny" strut

you said bare bones track seat! scrifices will be made to use these! some designs are down right painfull if you don't have them angled just right. my first set had almost a point in the back, first time I installed them I got a cut in my back from less then 5 miles. I readjusted them, and they were liveable. as for a street car, especially driving any distance DON"T DO IT! I did in mine, I was ok with it, but no one liked them but me. let me rephrase that everyone hated them, I thought they were boarderline, since the factory seats were 50th ae, as in HEAVY DINOSAURS

ran them years ago, I imagine same design as they were. And as for weight... Hell yeah those are light!!!!

sounds like a 300zx oil pan would be fine. the pathys were the last 1/4 but really a deep sump, and narrow... don't remember for positive, but I think the maxima's were front sump... sounds badd ass good luck!!

yes, I agree with both above statements. Also the journal is probably well seated(broke in well) and also has thinner oil(affirming the thicker break in oil/grease)

isn't that the clown car? and only was like 1002, or 2002 invested in it?

20's are fully counterbalanced, and 25's are not, its common for a rb25 to be destrocked with the 20 crank to gain revs....

wow, truly an amazing story there... And a real life action HERO he is!!!!! If the world was full of guys like this we'd all be better off thats for sure.

this is the parts wanted section must be a donateing member to post in for sale ads..

I ran 24 psi on a stock rebuild and cams with ported polished heads.. Out of a 60-1 turbo.... ran a whole summer.... so 350 would be easy even on a stock block and pistons... these things are pretty stout.. Its a straight 6 so torque will be plentifull....... with a more efficient turbo intercooler and exhaust you should reliably run over 300..... "reliably"

t3t4 turbo, 3" mandrel bent exhaust, intercooler, megasquirt, bigger injectors, cams, porting polishing, forged pistons, limited slip differential, z32 transmission conversion, in just about that order thats just the power train.... lol..... and that has power levels ranging from 400hp and up........ searching is your best bet.. ok as for $ to time estimate... 15's can be factory done (might dip high 14's from a simple boost controller) easy 14's high 13's with little effort add a t3t4(400) 3" exhaust (300) intercooler, and piping (250-300) mid to low 13's maybe high 12's megasquirt(with all the frills ms1 with boost controller built in, all sensors harness ect, 550?) depending engine quality, weight all of that... because these engines on stock block and head have made 400 more than once... then you get into more money.... forged pistons porting polishng and cams probably close to another 2,000 or better but then your set to run enough power to run some hella power if its assembled and tuned correctly.... and well before that there are other things you NEED to attend to.. clutch for one all mounts will need to be up to the task ect, also you need brakes they always help.... ok enough babiling for me... now search.. what are your goals. is this strictly drag? street, autocross, ect....

I was told .007 of max before needing shims.. never tried it though... I thought the tensioner would be able to take up the slack, and as long as you could get the cam timing correct.... I wouldn't see why you couldn't. But back to the origibal statement I made... I was informed a max of .007 before shims needed... But .015 is the thinnest shim I know of? shave .008 off and shim it .015 makes less sense than shaveing .010 offf and calling it good to me...... Oh well... good luck.

well, I was going on the fact that he had p90.... didn't think of that. and I used another one.... http://www.ozdat.com/ozdatonline/enginedesign/

I'd run the flats with factory thickness head gasket at that boost level... heck, I'd run 10-1 if thats all the boost you are gonna run... What do flat tops net thats not even 8.5-1 with a 1.2mm hg. go up to the 1.5 drops it to 8.3-1 and a 2mm will drop down to a just a hair under 8-1...... and yes thats with the flat tops... at that boost level you could run a much thinner head gasket and be safe... (.8mm gives a 8.8-1) many engines are running 9.5-1 and boosted.... so 10 psi on that low compression of a setup would be fine!

you just missed a carbon fiber front bumper. Thanks to me but check out http://www.thezstore.com/ go to 70-96 Z Home Accessories & More Body Kits & Styling 70-78 Z Body Styling Carbon Fiber or http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/CTGY/7BSA05 there is also show cars but no experiece with that..... and I believe there mostly fiberglass if not all...

wow.... Hopefully its not your basement! But I have a sinking feeling it is

no, its 2+2. if your good with welding about the only thing you need (from the down pipe) is a single 90* bend.... its all straight except 2 slight bends......... Mines currently on the car.. And I would want to keep my down pipe.... let me see what muffler is on it tommorrow before I deceide the price lol....

I have a 2.5 inch exhaust mandrel bent. Its very few bends in one.. You could easily make one.... Mine is setup for a turbo.... Oh, just saw your from texas... Im in ny shipping would probably be a bust....

I have a turbo motor complete minus turbo, less than 1000 miles since rebuild... Lots of mods, area code 14892. I have a t3t4 turbo I can include for the right price... making it a complete bolt in l28 turbo.... I'm going to be looking for 600 without the turbo, and 700 with it.... also could include a downpipe to connect to factory exhaust...

solid mount with a air inlet through it :)I got one. Needs a new bolt welded to it, but bolts up perfectly!!! So it can be done... I'll weld a new bolt and get it 100% bolt on for the right price..(its a 3 inch pipe, so a 3-4 adapter would be needed... And for the right price, I can throw mine in on that also....

I had a simlar symptom... No matter how I punched in the ve tune setup (just to get te idea where to start) I would lean out alot above somewhere in there.. I had to estimate the hp to be ALOT higher then I thought and still same thing. And the low end of the tune was WAY to rich.... I started tuning by at 100 (mine is actually 101) I pulled 1 away and triangled back, 1 row less vaccum , and one row less rpm pulling 1? in every step... Then I did the opposite in + side. I then tuned it from the wide band That should get you able to run though....