jeffp

I realize you got a good deal on the pistons. BUT, why are you interested in the 3.1 liter engine/bottom end for a turbo application/ First thing, the difference between a 30. liter and 3.1 liter engine, run normally aspirated, is a difference of about 2hp. Second, the boost and power will be determined by the turbo. So WOT will not really be affected or improved by the 3.1 liter swept volume of the cylinder. Most importantly, you are going to be running the cylinders to thin for a F54 block. You want an N42 block with offset boring to get the cylinder thickness uniform, and to match up the conbustion chambers perfectly. I don't recommend a 3.1 liter for turbo applications because of the cylinders, you can add stroke and get there, but there again, you will have to pay alot of money, and modify your block to get the crank to turn in the block without clearance issues. Use the 89mm pistons N/A and be on the safe side. You want a good cylinder wall for the turbo application, so I figure why push it with the results you will net.

You have a very good question. You mentioned the electric components you are running and the current drain @ idle is really what you need to consider. A 100 Amp unit should be more then enough for your car, provided you don't have a stereo that draws 50-70 Amps wide open. I have been working this problem for some time and have inveated to date about 1000.00 in various alternators and units. The last unit I have bought was a powermax 150 Amp unit. The alternator does very well, EXCEPT, in the case of idle current it can provide. Alternators can be configured to put out alot of current, but the majority of them will not give you the idle current you will need. There in lies the problem. In my case, the alternator will provide the current needed for my water pump, ECU, electric fan, fuel pump, injectors, ignition. As soon as I try to run anything else(at idle) the voltage drops to about 11.6-12 volts. So if you are fuel injected, the injectors become mushy, and the car runs poorly because there is not enough current to properly open and close the injectors. So that is the real issue. I am looking at a unit, and it is being shipped to me, that according to the seller will provide overal 200 Amps of current, plenty of power there, but it will also provide 90-95 Amps of current @ idle, now your talking. So we will see how it does. The unit is a GM part, internal regulated, and will not be to difficult to retrofit to the stock nissan bracketry. The housing is 6.5" in diameter, larger then a standard unit. The part is 269.00 with tax and shipping. This is much cheaper then the powermax unit that cost me 450.00 for the unit, and since the regulator was not that good, another 140.00 for a good regulator. So you can see this stuff gets expensive very quickly. I also did a 105 Amp upgrade to the stock nissan unit for 218.00 and it also will not provide enough current @ idle. This is the third go around on the alternator solution, and I am hopeful this third try will get me the results I am looking for. So to select a correct part, you really need to do a current draw test to see just how much current you need @ idle, then size the alternator accordingly. Don't worry about the higher current ratings of the units out there as the regulator will determine the current required to charge the battery sufficently. hope that helps

Resistance readings are not going to tell you very much, except in the case of a short. The best way to test the maf is to power it up with 12 volts at the appropriate connector pins. Then hook up a multimeter to the scaling voltage output. Take the setup to a shop with shop air, and blow air through the unit and you should see the scale voltage go up as you increase the air through the unit. Also, depending on the setup (Z31 ECU/MAF) you should see not less then 2.2 VDC at 750 RPM. The Z32 maf is a little diffeent, it scales from 0-5.12 volts. But the z31 starts @ 2.2 volts @ idle. hope that helps.

You are correct, I was the driving force behind that pump. The rating of the uit was 25GPH or so @ 4PSI when they tested the configuration. I have run this pump for a while and it performs well. I have taken it on long trips and it doesn't skip a beat. So for my car it is working well with the electric fan. One thing to caution you about, if you are running a stock alternator, and all of the electric gadgets that I am running you may have current/voltage problems with the cooling. What I found on my car, was that the alternator regulator was taking the idle current/voltage down to about 11.6 volts also at higher rpms where the alternator should have had full power. The car got hot with the low voltage to the pump and fan. I dont know if it will be any kind of a problem with a carb setup. I can tell you running the injectors, electric fan(the biggest current drain) the water pump, fuel pump, and finally the ECU I have had problems with running voltage. So check that out when you start installing all the electric stuff. Does the pump work, yes it does. I got a better alternator, not much for 600.00 but better. I can keep the 14.1 volt idle voltage if I run ONLY the components I have listed, any more drain, using the cig lighter for instance I lose voltage, the pump slows down, the fan slows down and the car starts running 3/4 gauge. Then I tried to get a little more from the alternator and turned the regulator voltage to about 14.8 volts max and when I did not get the voltage dropping off the car ran fine, with the A/C running on a day of about 95-105 degrees. about 180 degrees. So it will work good provided you have sufficient voltage regulation. My story is a little unique, as I dont know anyone that is running so much drain on the system @ idle. So, my opinion of the unit is that it works very well. The pump sticks out of the front cover about 1/4" shorter then the stock pump, so an electric fan is very doable, and there is still room to change the belts in between the pump motor, and the fan motor, provided the fan is center on the radiator. Oh and BTY CSR use to be called CSI, and as I understand it, it was because of this pump that made them change their name, and file bankruptsy because of some patant issue, go figure.

One thing I have come to learn about the z community is that there are a number of opinions on questions posed for someone. So what I have had to do is to test various functions for myself to get the correct information. To test the system you simply need to install the fuel pump, and the pressure regulator and run the pump. Connect the eturn line and fire off the system. Once fuel is flowing ensure that you can maintain the lowest fuel pressure you are going to run with no injectors open. This will verify that you have enough headway for the return. Then bump up the pressure and flow the system that way as well. You should be able to maintain the low fuel pressure and maintain the high volume fuel pressure and flow rates. The system will tell you if it will do that or not, and if it doesn't, then run a new line for the return. Yake the guess work out of the equation and test the system.

You can zap the injector with the battery, but don't keep it connected to long, you will run the risk of opening the injector coil if you just leave it connected to the batery. So try that and if it works you will hear it click. My experience with this problem got me into some trouble with my car. If you get the injector to open, chances are that it is not going to flow to capacity of the injector, in other words, the injector will more then likely need to be cleaned. My recommendation is get a cost on a new part. I bought one from Kragen for 75.00 I think, and it just may cost close to that figure to have your injector cleaned. Another place to look is Ebay for a set.

I guess in the end the numbers are close enough that it's kind of a moot issue... which is interesting to me... that a DP alone is worth 15 and a full 3" mandrel system over the stock system 'only' worth 20. The whole thing about getting a good number from someone on just exactly how much a DP upgrade really is worth has been something I've really wanted to see for quite some time now... too bad it comes after my own turbo Z is already gone. I still feel it's inaccurate and misleading for people to go around telling others "upgrade the DP you'll get 20hp!" but I guess now these results are close enough that there's no point debating it anymore I could not see doing simply the downpipe. I was going fo the complete setup for the car and be done with it, however you wanted to configure it. The other thing is that pete was running 16psi of boost and got his numbers, not exactly a factory boost setting. I ran stock boost levels and got a little more performance. I am not sure if that difference between the two would be a linear increase from idle to max rpm levels. Seems like the dyno chart I looked at showed a peeky power band, but that could easily be the cam causing that response curve. So who knows, I am happy with my results, the car likes the system so I run it.

You can get a damper from Rebello Racing. Talk to Dave and he will get you what you need.

Here is a pic of my setup in my car : Well here is the whole page, go to the bottom of the page to see all of the stuff for the tranny. That tranny will hold up just fine.

There are two forgings, the high silicone cont and low silicone content forging. I am running the high silicone content forging and typically for a N/A application you can run 2.5-3 thousands, but keep in mind, if you run hot you will want to give the piston a little more clearance say .004 The low silicone content pistons will require 5-6 thousands clearance. Boosted applications give yourself .001 more clearance. Sucks, but piston expansion is a killer, some call it the black death when it scuffs. Take a look at my web page and see what happened to my cylinders. I got the engine very hot one time, really didn't have any choice in the matter, so I ran it until it cooled off. That instance did not hurt the piston, and at the time I believe it was about .004 clearance as opposed to 2.5 This new build is .005-.0055 and that should take care of my problems. The thing is the heat, you can run closer tolerances, but if you ever overheat, you will run into problems. Better to run a little lose when cold, and let the piston expand under operating temps then to be to tight any day.

NOT GOOD! you broke your ring lands. Pressure in the crank case is a very good indication of a broken piston, then if you are losing compression, well the pistons are done. DETONATION was your problem. I just replaced my pistons for that very same reason, it only cost 3000.00 for new pistons and a refresh on the head. Not to fun.

Start with a piece of 1" round stock, drill and tap. Then use a part off tool to get the thickness you want for the part. Or if you want a cool radioused part, drill and tap, then use a hole saw say 2" saw and use a drill press with the part in a vice. Cut the end off with the hole saw, you now have a radioused part, to weld to a pipe.

I started with the .82 A/R housing and was getting spool at about 33-3500 rpm's, not to bad but not what it was like before. I decided to go with the .63 A/R housing and that is more to liking. I have pressure at a much lower rpm level and it has worked out very well to this point. Running the car @ 8psi of boost, the transition from off boost to boost is almost transparent to me when I am driving the car. I like that, but keep in mind, I haven't turned up the boost to where it is going to go. So with that being said, I can see the transition from 175-200hp to 500hp or higher is a radical change in a very short rpm range. You may have difficulty keeping the tires planted to the pavement, and if you do, the pull will be very radical, but fun LOL.

Mna I just looked at what I wrote, terrible, hands are a little tired today, I just got back from pulling an LD, a little tired.

That looks like they will work very well. I would recommend for the next build to go with stainless steel hardware, the blacl oxide bolts although they war good bolts will still rust relitevily quick, go with stainless stell allen hardware and they will look excellent for many years to come. Second suggestion, since you are installing the fuel injector adapters/holders try to point the injectors towards the throttle plates at about a 35 degree angle. that will aid in the atomization of the fuel. When they spray towards the throttle plates, the air rushing through the runners will make the fuel do a 180 degree turn and break up the raw fuel better. Other then that, I think you could have gotten a little more shine out of that manifold LOL. I think I could shave with that mirror finish. Good work bryan, I always like to see what you come up with next.

Just out of curiosity, did you make sure the duration (advertised) was correct, and the opening AND closing points of the cam were correct. And did you check the intake and the exhaust lobes? What valve lash did you end up using?

Thanks Joel, yes this header has been a headache from day one. I just dont think it will ever be right. The damn think keeps warping on the ends and lostening up the studs in the head, I'm running 10mm studs on the ends. Anyway, can you or anyone you know drop by their business. I have tried to cal for about a week now and keep getting quick busies on the line. Their webpage says shop temp closed. So I don't really know what to think about the whole thing. I do know I want my investment back. They charged me the most for the part 1350.0 with jet hot coating. I really dont want to eat that much money on the thing if I don't have to, but I am getting the feeling I should start thinking about writing it off. Anyway any help would be appreciated.

I'm not going to even fool with it anymore. I have to much money and time in the part and it is just a big pain in the butt. I am going to go stainless on it and try to duplicate the configuration so I dont have to screw with changing my whole induction and downpipes. Pisses me off to no end!

Well I have just taken off the header again and it warped in about 250 miles again. Thats it for the thing it will not be put back on my car period. This part has been a head ache since day one, and it isn't getting any better. The money I have invested in shipping, cost of part, rework had racked a good amount of money. I am finished with the POS! I tried calling them today and keep getting quick busies on the line. Does anyone have a number for them, did they change their number? Any help would be appreciated, I want to get my money back, and I'm not going for a store credit on this one. Fricken total waste of time and effort, and money.

You will not get good gains from the stock Nissan manifold. If you are looking for flow improvements then go after market period. I had my manifold extrude honed and then flow tested on a cylinder head. Not to impressive in reality. A good ported cylinder head will flow in the 200's @ 25 inches of water. The stock Nissan intake will not get near those flow numbers. Going turbo application will be a better application of the intake, but will cut down on the efficiency of the induction system, but with the turbo you can take an efficiency hit and still make your numbers. For the N/A setup, forget about it, go with a cannon, TWM, webber, and all of the vatriations of the after market intakes to get better performance.

I am running a MSD 6A box, and it to has developed a misfire @ 5K rpm's. The HVC coil was bad. So I decided to go with the sure fire Mallory volt master coil. So I still haven't finished up the misfire problem yet. I had to buoild some filter circuits to filter the electric motors in my car, fan, waterpump, and intercooler fans. Anyway, I had to pull the radiator, while I was at it to have a fitting welded on the tank for the temp sensor. I completed that today. Anyway, I went to the Pomona swap meet last weekend and bought a 6a for $30.00 I decided to disect the box, and when I got it opened up, WHAT A JOKE. No wonder the box cant take vibration at all, and no wonder it fails looking at the components used in the unit. The circuit board is a single sided board, and the soldering looks like it was assembled by my wife while she was watching All my children. I am sending the box out to have a schematic done on it, yes it is time for some modifications to the box. Now, if you want to, send me the box, and I am quite sure I can effect repairs to the unit, the circuitry is such a joke

I asked the guy about them and he told me only after I bought them : < Talk to Joe Schubeck, Schubeck Racing, 702-252-0577 (this is the last number that I have for him). It is my understanding that these were actually made for a special purpose motor that they designed. The rockers were of the same configuration as the Datsun. I do not know if this was on purpose or by a fluke. The rockers were purchased through Malvern Racing (David Weber). Malvern had theses roler rockers listed in his catalog (website) for a few years. I do not know how many he sold. I think he may have sold some to a drag racer in Japan (I am not sure). I have a complete report to send you on the entire project. > So I guess I am going to jump off that cliff and go with it and see where it gets. I spoke to Ron Iskenderian today about grinding a cam for me. He had his doubts about the longevity of the cam, which I could understand. I did tell him about what we were doing at Sig Erson in 83 with the roller cams we were making. Just incase you don't know or remember, Don Garletts was running for Super Shops. Needless to say we learned very quickly what it took to get a roller cam to last more then two seconds in an engine without destroying itself. The first cam loked like a bunch of mushrooms after a 2 second run time. So I mentioned this to Ron and he commented about the turn around rate at Sig Erson at the time, and that it would be hard to find anyone that could answer how the cams were being made. I laughed a little and said I know exactly who to ask, and where he is. Bob Beatty, he is the guy to ask, of which I just happen to have worked with, and have a good handle on how to get in touch with him. What we were doing is roughing out the cam, then grinding the center of the lobe with a 1/4" edge grinder about .200 deep, then the cams were sent out and welded, when they got back, they were then finish ground to specifications, they worked very well, seeing what they were doing and the kind of stress they went through. So my cam will not have to be as agressive. The lift will be a maximum of .415 to get the .580 lift on the intake, and a little less to get the .540 lift on the exhaust. Ron was thinking the cam duration would not have to be as long as a standard cam" is that what you were thinking?" you got it ron, very fast ramp, and closing of the valve, shorten the duration, decrease the overlap, decrease the lobe centers to get the same results. Sounds good on paper right, well keeping the cam lobes intact is the challenge. Then it is just a matter of having the rest of the head done, Nathan at B.C. Gerolomy told me he has 8 months left working there and he would be willing to do another head for me. Same setup as this new head, and were done. LOL all you got to do LOL. Thats the game plan anyway. I got to get in touch with Bob and pick his brain a little, I am quite sure he remembers what was done. So if I sell my first born ,and give them my right arm I will have a roller cam head to run for all it's got. I have to think about this one for a while, I am thinking the lift will not have to be quite as agressive as the cam I now have, if I can get the ramp time shortened up enough, I will get the same if not better flow, but with the advantage of shorter overlap and duration. Get the valve open faster, keep it open at a higher lift longer, and shut it earlier, now that is the hot ticket. Longer burn time, better combustion, more torque, and since my engine is stroked, with a longer rod the engine is going to make some frickin power with less fuel consumption overall because more of the fuel will be burned. How does that sound? Fortunately, I do have some good information on the roller and tappet setups. I made all of the tappets, and more importantly, got to do all of the rework on the tappets, the biggest problem was keeping the needle bearings from going bad, they did like to munch the needles. So I hope some good needle bearings were selected for the job. anyway lets see what comes in. Any ideas are welcome if they are constructive.

NO, they will not work on the standard cam. I do believe I went through the setup in my earlier postings. The roller cam configuration requires a much wider lobe due to the short contact point of the rocket to cam. This is also true American made engines, they also require a ground cam to run a roller setup.

Any Z31, Maxima, wheel will work. The only difference is that one of the injector triggers is wider, to tell the ECU it is @ TDC. Make sure you dont get it flipped upside down.

I am going to have to look at their claims, and find out if they have a patent or patent pending.