Jump to content
HybridZ

Leon

Donating Members
  • Posts

    2472
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    24

Leon last won the day on December 30 2023

Leon had the most liked content!

About Leon

  • Birthday 02/21/1987

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Not Telling
  • Location
    Burlingame, CA

Recent Profile Visitors

17234 profile views

Leon's Achievements

Apprentice

Apprentice (3/14)

  • Reacting Well Rare
  • Dedicated Rare
  • First Post Rare
  • Collaborator Rare
  • Posting Machine Rare

Recent Badges

46

Reputation

  1. She's back on the road as of this past Saturday, as promised. I forgot how much of a pain it is to do a job like this on the driveway, but it ended with a driving car and a diff that feels better than ever! No more clunking and... a bit less whining. It seems the poly mustache bar bushes transmit a lot of whine, as the front diff mount is still OEM. Somehow though, the exhaust ended up a lot closer to the diff than I recall. The lack of clearance is audible. I'm planning to drop the exhaust and grind down the diff case. Other than that, she needs new tires, fresh engine and gearbox oil, and Keith's W65 jets need install and tuning. Oh, and I found that the rear ARB was clashing with the left RLCA. Since both RLCAs are the same part number, just flipped LH/RH, there is less clearance for the ARB on the left vs right sides due to the flange being on the topside of the arm. This will need some massaging. I'm afraid that by the time I'm "finished", the car will need another restoration. 😄
  2. Checking the wipe patterns beforehand more than offset your mistake.
  3. If this happens regardless of speed or RPM, as you say, then I'm highly suspicious of your throttle linkage. Can you post a pic of your setup? If it's mechanical linkage, check for binding. If it's a throttle cable, I wonder if your lever ratio (length of carb throttle rod / cable throttle rod) is too aggressive. In other words, you may need a longer cable throttle rod.
  4. Finally had a chance to degrease the diff, reseal every joint, and pop in the Kameari stubs. I torqued the pinion nut to 135 ft-lb per this nifty blog article: https://inzane240.blogspot.com/2014/01/updated-info-on-subie-r180-install.html. Planned install is this Saturday! I've also ordered W65 idle jets from Keith Franck so hoping to have this car fairly dialed in for a mountain drive on the following Saturday.
  5. You're right, it's more of a spacer than a crush tube. The shim is used to set pinion depth. There are a few active threads on this topic at classiczcars with a few folks there rebuilding their R180s.
  6. The diff arrived this past Tuesday and I confirmed that the stub axles fit! I'm awaiting my pinion and side seals to arrive next week. In the meantime, I'll clean up and paint the diff and then it's install time. I've decided to install it as-is and only fit new clutches into the diff if I feel like it's needed. I bought bolts for the rear cover from ZCar Depot instead of fitting studs. I'm assuming this won't be the last time I pull this diff so I'm hoping that this makes the process easier.
  7. Man I sure hope so... the research I've done seems to indicate that they match but I can't say I found anything 100% conclusive on this. We shall see.
  8. I gave up trying to estimate completion dates long ago. In Soviet Russia, project completes you. 🙃
  9. MONZTER intake part 2: NA Bugaloo!
  10. Hey Aydin, in the US, the 3.9 was '04-'05 only unfortunately. The '06 was unique in that it was a CLSD 3.54--'07 and later were all helical 3.54. Good thinking! I'm planning on inspecting the carrier and replacing clutches once the diff arrives. I had ordered fresh clutches from Racing Diffs with the thought that I was going to refresh my current diff but now they can be used for the Subi unit. Speaking of which, the diff has now arrived from the dismantler and is in Tyler's hands. He has gone the extra mile to pull the cover and take plenty of pics to confirm that it's indeed a 3.9 CLSD. ❤️ It'll be shipped out from Japan after New Years so hopefully in my hands in a few weeks!
  11. Thanks Garrett! I bet many can relate. But I know you especially have been focusing on every single detail, any idea when you'll be back on the road? Between family, work, and other projects, it's difficult to dedicate the time like I used to. But after all these years, I still love this car. This Z will be 50 years old in a couple months and it amazes me what this 50 year old car can do. 🤙
  12. I decided to act quickly as to not have the car down too long. After tireless and borderline obsessive searching, I committed to getting a Subaru R180 for availability reasons. The cheapest solution for stub axles turned out to be Kameari which I found for significantly cheaper on Yahoo Auctions Japan rather than buying inside the US: https://www.jauce.com/auction/m1117548805. They were $417 shipped to my door vs anything US-based being $500+. The fresh hardware is a nice value add. As for the diff, I wanted to retain the 3.9 ratio paired with the late ZX close-ratio box vs the 3.54 which I initially built the car with. I did like the deep overdrive with the 3.54 for highway cruising but the 3.9 gearing is perfect for mountain driving. In the US, the 3.9 LSD was only used in '04-'05 STI's and therefore is quite a bit tougher to find now versus 10 years ago. When they do pop up, they seem to go for way too much, for my wallet anyway. So I started searching other avenues to get one of these... There are more available on eBay UK but they tended to be missing the rear cover for some reason and condition was not so clear. Then I turned to the JDM which ended up being more complicated to understand as far as which models to target. Long story short, I learned that at least the '01-'05 STI with DCCD transmission got a CLSD 3.9 R180--good enough for me. I ended up contacting Tyler at Magnolia Auto Supply (shout out: https://magnolia-as.jp/) who helped me source a diff from Japan! Japanese dismantlers seem to be very thorough in how the parts are presented, this one came out of an '03 STI with DCCD and has 89k miles on it. This path is likely a bit more expensive than the UK route but I felt good knowing more about the part. The hope is that this diff lasts the lifetime of the car given that I don't put that many miles on it. The diff is currently on its way and I'm very much looking forward to getting the car back on the road. I've got a fresh diff cover gasket and seals to install once it comes in. I just need to source a Nissan R180 pinion flange and decide on studs vs bolts for the rear cover. Note the PN: 27011AA860 Per Subaru:
  13. In other words, I think this diff may have just become a parts diff...
  14. Unfortunately, more unhappy diff news this evening. It seems whoever assembled this diff majorly screwed up, to put it lightly. As I said, a local diff shop was the last to touch this diff when I had them inspect it... 10 years ago. So the costs may very well be sunk at this point which is disappointing. There is heavy embedment of the friction plate ears against the carrier and damage to the cover itself (perhaps due to mishandling during install?), I have a feeling the clutch vs washer vs plate stackup was done incorrectly. Elongation of clearance holes in carrier due to loose ring gear bolts And the mystery of where in the world are the LSD ramps was solved... the pressure ring was installed 90° off and the cross pin was put in the wrong place. INSERT REGRET AND DISAPPOINTMENT HERE.
  15. (1) Hoodie Size: XL Color: Dark Heather Zip: 94010 I'm glad you're doing another run, Ryan! I was bummed when my hoodie from the original group buy took some damage last year, wasn't sure I'd have a chance to replace it.
×
×
  • Create New...