Leon

Football puts me to sleep, I'd rather watch some rugby. Those guys are real men, not a bunch of idiots that shoot themselves at night clubs.

Under "Gear oil" I see API GL-4 as the recommended lubricant for both the turbo and NA transmissions. I don't see any ATF implications...

My tach works intermittently, but it pulls well from about 3k to 6.5k rpm. Around town drivability is great as well, and as you said, the majority of your driving will be done on the streets. I'm using my Z as a weekend car and occasional autocrosser, so having a "hot cam" in my engine would be more of a conversation piece than a real performance benefit at this point. When I get to the point of further modifications I will dyno the car beforehand to make sure that what I'm doing has a worthwhile benefit. I'm actually planning to make a comparison video of the Z with SUs and then with the Webers, with no other engine changes made. The Z is down right now because I'm rebuilding the suspension but I hope to be done with that in the near future. Trying to prepare for my first autocross!

So you want to turn the pressure side of the pump into the suction side? Not a good idea...

I run 40DCOE Webers on a stock 240Z cam. It idles great and has plenty of power up top, and the triples definitely pull better than the old, worn-out SUs! My point is, there is no need to get a "performance cam" especially if you want to be in a suitable autoX class. I plan to do some autocrossing with the SCCA and I have made it a point to read their rules regarding car classes. I plan to run in BSP where induction, exhaust, etc. are unlimited but you must keep the stock cam. Just another consideration...

I guess I have to repeat myself... If you don't want to put in the $20 investment for the video, at least learn how they work by searching online. I'll give you a site I know off the top of my head: http://zparts.com/zptech/articles/mal_land/ml_sucarb2/images4/SUcarb_111601d.htm Listen to Tony.

http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/cam/index.htm

Manual fuel pump? That would be a hell of a workout!

Ztherapy has a video on how to tune these carbs, plus other tuneup tips.

Can anybody tell me where to find a shrubbery? I've used a search but haven't found anything.

Greetings Tim the Enchanter!

Sounds like your distributor is out 180 degrees. Thinking practically, a camshaft can't be 180 degrees out from the crankshaft, it just moves your place in the engine cycle by two strokes. Your options are to either move the spark plug wires around correctly and use a timing gun to properly set ignition timing, or to drop the oil pump and rotate the distributor. I'd say the former is pretty simple to do...

Your mother was a hamster and your father smelled of elderberries. Now go away, before I taunt you a second time!

Take a look at the FSM, section BE-2. Download FSM at xenons30.com, under references.

Interesting... Does your suspension bottom out a lot with so little bump travel? I plan to use my Z for weekend/autoX and I dont want to be smacking the bump stop all the time. Maybe I'll just trim the bump stop and see how it drives. Anyone else have similar problems? EDIT: That's what the comparison of my 260Z and '71 240Z struts looks like. The spring perch sits higher on the 240Z ones. Thanks for the photos!

I'm rebuilding the suspension (bushings, springs, shocks, etc.) on my 9/73 260Z and I just ran into something unsettling. I installed Tokico HPs and Eibachs which are both listed as compatible with the 240Z and early 260Z. When I put in the HP inserts, the gland nuts almost bottomed out. They are tightened but very close to the strut top even with the gland nut spacer. But this is not the main problem. While I was putting the springs on I noticed that my 260Z spring perch sits noticeably lower than the 240Z struts I have to compare with. I decided to go on anyway, because the springs are listed as the same for the 240/260Z (early). I installed the struts on the car (ARB or steering rack uninstalled, but that doesn't make a difference) and I have virtually no bump travel with the ES bump stop in there. Cutting or removing the bump stop will help but not by much, as I think it would still bottom out all the time. The springs are installed correctly, with part number 6305.001 in front. Now I'm thinking someone installed later struts but I measured the strut ID and it was equal to my 240Z strut tube! The 240Z/early 260Z inserts fit snugly into both my 260Z and 240Z strut tubes. The difference being that the 260Z lower spring perch sits lower than the 240Z spring perch. I don't remember there being much of a difference in overall height. At this point, I'm not quite sure what's going on here. Are there three types of stock S30 struts? It does not look like someone cut the perch and welded it lower. I suppose I can get longer springs, but what is the issue here? I've been searching and haven't seen this problem. Here are some photos for reference:

Not to get more off-topic, but you said N/A engines not N/A L-series engines. Still, an N/A L-series is perfectly capable of exceeding 100% VE. Why wouldn't it be? Back to the other topic, the SUs are just fine for the engine in relatively stock form. I agree that the Holley is not any improvement at all, and I would think it would actually detract from performance in terms of mixture distribution when compared to dual carbs. The variation in runner length is greater than the SUs which leads to more uneven AFR across the cylinders. Onto the original topic, what does it matter how your engine compares to stock? If it performs to your liking, then enjoy it.

NA engines are perfectly capable of obtaining 100% VE through resonance tuning.

Pm'd.

Wow, great attention to detail! That first start will bring so much satisfaction, make sure to post a video. I got tired of seeing my Z on jackstands for 2 years, so I bought a running one! This stuff takes a lot of perseverance, the photos show the countless hours of dedication that you put into your Z.

http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/36272-viper-v10-engine-in-a-z/page__hl__viper__st__20

This is what I was assuming he meant. Obviously, you will lose bump travel if you cut the perch off and weld it in lower. What I was thinking was that he wanted to cut below the perch and drop the perch along with the gland packing nut threads. Although now I realize that is exactly what strut sectioning is. The shocks have to be shorter in this case, but this is well documented. For some reason my interpretation of what he was talking about was that he wanted to section the struts without me realizing that I'm talking about sectioning struts. Misunderstanding on my part, carry on.

I don't see how you lose suspension travel when you cut below the perch and weld it on lower. Explain? You would lose ground clearance, yes, but suspension travel does not change. The relative distance between the strut tube top and the shock mount stay the same. The difference between coilovers and this is that there is no height adjustment. You also need to think about spring (and damper) selection because you'll likely need stiffer springs depending on how much ground clearance you decide to eliminate. BTW, struts are typically sectioned when a shorter spring takes away too much bump travel.

I have a copy of this book, I assume it is very similar to the original.

You can use MMS if you don't have labeled hardware. You'll have new, shiny fasteners labeled and ready to go! If (when) I embark on a basket-case project, I will give them consideration especially if the PO didn't label anything.