Leon

No head work or cam change of any kind. All I did was swap out old, worn SUs for 40DCOE triples that I had. Of course it pulls a hell of a lot better! I don't have dyno results but I will post video comparing the SUs to the triples just for kicks. I did get to drive it before it was put in the garage for a suspension rebuild and not only did they pull well, but the sound was amazing! I plan to dyno test in the future.

This is not true and severely downplays many other factors in engine performance. Power is directly related to volumetric efficiency. Even if the mixture is "ideal" and is ignited at MBT timing, you will be down on power compared to a cylinder that is filled more. Cylinder filling is heavily dependent on intake (and exhaust) tract design, meaning that "what (where?) the mixture comes from" is very much relevant. The reason I said that I'll take a good set of triples over any other carb setup is because of the increase in volumetric efficiency and mixture uniformity inherent in the triples. Hence, Tony mentions that properly tuned, triples will make more power. However, with the mention of the "best bang for the buck," obviously a proper tune is number one.

It would be wise to try a search first as there have been many threads on the topic. Personally, I'll take a good set of triples over any other carb setup.

Just ordered a new Nissan console from ebay for $160 shipped, not a bad deal I suppose. Thanks everyone for your offers!

No problem, that seems to be the norm, I definitely appreciate the effort. Time to order a new one!

Just awesome! You've done a very nice job, Ron. If I ever tackle a swap, this would be the one. Top notch work!

Thanks!

I plan to order a new console this coming week as almost all used ones seem to have the radio faceplate mounts cut out. If you have a clean, uncut console for sale let me know!

We need video!

Especially in San Diego! I lived there for 2 years and found drivers to be insecure, sleepy and overly reckless. I thought the Bay Area was bad, but Socal is on another level!

Michael put it very well, so I don't find it necessary to repeat all he said. You do want massive amount of torque (why wouldn't you?), just at a higher rpm.

That is correct. There are provisions in the headlight bucket area as well. It's not that difficult, I don't know if I'd trust the competency of that body shop.

MSA is about $180 without shipping and BDA is $190 without shipping. Cheapest on ebay is about $167 shipped. My 260Z is more of a budget-minded refresh so I'd rather not spend a ton for trivial parts, although I do want a center console that is not chopped in half!

Seems like shipping is probably going to be killer on these things, so if there are any locals on the SF peninsula or Bay Area, I would really prefer that. Thanks guys.

I'm looking for a '74-'78 (260Z or 280Z) center console with the radio mounts intact as I'd like to keep the stock radio. Please, no beat up and cracked consoles. Minor damage may be okay, just let me know what condition it's in. Pictures would be great!

Doh! There are 2 springs in the back...

Care to explain your math? I calculate about 200lb at 70mph from Tony's numbers.

Interesting. You'll just have to be on the lookout for good used ones on craigslist, ebay, our classifieds, etc. Good luck.

I'm sure Pierce Manifolds either has them or can get them.

Take a look at your own quote, it says nothing about being exempt from Smog requirements, just the biannual smog check. I'm not sure whether you've read the whole thread, here is what ray mentioned earlier:

That's not true at all, especially with turbocharged cars.

That is the way that I installed mine as well.

I'll cover another question. I've never used MS but I'm pretty sure you can run a speed-density setup with enrichment coming based on dmap/dt, someone correct me if this can't be done. This eliminates the need for a throttle position switch whether you're running open or closed loop. A TPS is really only required if you plan to run TPS-based acceleration enrichments and/or you plan to run the fuel map based on alpha-N instead of speed-density.

Calculate out the total steering ratio (factoring in steering arms) and you should have a valid comparison between the two options. I have not done this but it should be simple enough to do; the overall steering ratio is # turns at steering wheel/# turns at wheel. One turn of the steering wheel translates to a set amount of motion at the tie-rod ends, which would give a certain angle of rotation at the road wheel. All you need to know to do this is the steering rack transfer function and steering arm length. EDIT: If you choose to switch racks, be aware that the 240Z and 280Z rack bushings are different.

I have a recent post on the topic, maybe it can be of some help.