Leon

Josh, you may want to re-read the thread, as I think you missed the point of the post you quoted. Here are the parts of post #13 that you didn't quote: Therefore, you want to correctly size the header and collector in order to tune the exhaust system. Again, you're very focused on velocity but that's not the only, nor the biggest thing that drives exhaust (or intake) tuning. System resonance is what really drives this phenomenon. I think I already mentioned it earlier but I'll reiterate. In the exhaust system, as the valve opens a compression wave is sent downstream to the header and collector. At a discontinuity, such as the collector, the compression wave reflects back upstream as an expansion wave. If this expansion wave reaches the valve right before it closes (after the peak in the valve's mass flow) it creates a secondary peak of mass flow-rate through the valve by essentially sucking out (technical term ) more gasses. Therefore, you size the length of the header and collector based on parameters such as valve duration, pipe diameter, exhaust temp, etc. This stuff is more complex than just "keeping the velocity up" as many think. Tony's car is a prime example of this, where the header/collector is tuned and varying the long pipe out back at best doesn't affect anything (but noise), and at worst starts robbing more and more power. I highly recommend getting this book and reading and understanding as much as possible. If you don't "get" something, then post!

Here's an idea, start it even earlier, Cossie style!

Same here. You should be able to take that misalignment out by playing with the slots.

Just use the slotted adjustment available at the bolts that mount the hood to the hinges. There are two on each side. Your hood is cocked to the right side, so adjust the left side down. You have to keep iterating until you get it just right. It takes patience and having another person to help, but I've done it by myself with good results.

A smelly exhaust can be caused by many things, a few already mentioned here. Your mixture may be too rich, you may have leaking hoses in the engine bay, an exhaust leak, expansion tank hose leak, etc... People have put catalysts on their carburetted cars and reported that the smell is much less severe. You just better have your mixture dialed in or you'll destroy the converter. Otherwise, switch to EFI as Jon put it. Like I initially said, the main problem comes from the aerodynamics and 40-year-old rubber seals of the Z-car.

Frankly, if you really read all the threads on cabin fumes, the answer would be given to you. It has to do with the aerodynamics (or lack thereof) of the Z. There is a large wake, a low pressure area, behind the car which traps the exhaust. Opening the windows drops cabin pressure, exacerbating the issue. Sometimes I run the fan, which helps but gets annoying when turned up.

PM'd

BJ, you're probably thinking of zhome. Scroll down to "Production and Sales History" and go to "Production Figures." According to my arithmetic skills, the number is 148,115 240Zs and approximately 426,447 S30s. I only counted the US figures, but you can add in the rest if you desire. EDIT: Now that I look at the chart below, I believe the total amount produced is 575,954.

Haha, touché! Great cars by the way, I would've never realized that white looks good on a Z.

The stock brakes are adequate. Friction material selection is critical to proper brake function. Organic materials will work better at lower temperatures and semi-metallic materials are more well suited for high temperature. There are options in between so you can essentially pick the right friction material for your situation. The pedal may get softer, but you should not lose brakes to a point of it being dangerous if you're using the right pads and shoes. Like has been said, switching to rear drums is better for consistency because of the tendency of drums to expand under heat and inherently not dissipate heat as well as disks. If you race and the rules allow it, I'm sure it's a worthwhile upgrade.

Metal actually weighs more after oxidation, since it picks up those pesky oxygen molecules! Sand it down to lose that weight!

I'm feeling generous... Tony's high-revving LSR Z: Bryan's DOHC: http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/54764-my-official-l31dett-rhd-thread/page__hl__dohc Basic Suspension Tech: http://www.carbibles.com/suspension_bible.html

Yes, do a lot of searching and reading, at least on this site. You will learn all you need to learn. e.g. This confuses me since semi-trailing arms are part of the ZX's independent suspension. And I'm not sure what an L28DE is unless you're talking about Bryan Blake's car. Believe me, you have much reading to do. Luckily you've found a great resource for it.

A well designed header should add about 5hp as shown by dyno results and combined with a 2.5/3 inch exhaust should make for a nice bump in performance. A lightweight flywheel is also a great upgrade to make since it decreases reciprocating weight/inertia of the drivetrain which improves acceleration and throttle response. It's good bang for the buck. Take a look at Braap's post on EFI, it won't take much upgrading to have to require a standalone ECU.

I got one of these: http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/93293-now-carrying-14point7-wideband-controllers-with-native-usb-support It's a great deal, so it might work for you.

If I were to get a BMW, I'd go for an E36. There's a good chance that an E36 M3 will be my next daily (or an S2000). Reason being that the E36 is a fantastic chassis and the engines have timing chains to go with their twin-cams, versus the belt-driven single-cam E30s. The 325is went from ~168hp to ~190hp when comparing the E30 to E36. That's pretty significant. My brother drives a '93 318is and every time I drive it I tell myself, "I gotta get me one of these!" Then again, that would be my daily. I love my Z, and when I finally get it on the road the sense of accomplishment will be incredible. It's my first project. I've driven the car with a worn out suspension and running on 4 cylinders. It's been down for two years, and it will probably not drive again for another year. I know the feeling of frustration, but if deep down you know that you truly love the car, you will really regret selling it.

Of course there is my dad, who has always worked on the family cars. I'm very lucky in that whenever I need help with something, I can call on my dad and he always has a solution, no matter what the problem. Plus, I get to use the garage and all the tools, which is nice being a broke 23-year-old, fresh out of college! I'm also lucky to have a best friend nearby who has worked with his hands all his life and is in sheetmetal now. He's redone the downstairs in his house and I've helped him with projects, like concrete work in his yard. Whenever one of us needs help, the other is there. He's got a '65 F100 that he's been restoring as well. Then there is my neighbor who's a serious car guy. He does all his family's DDs plus his Corvair, Mustang, and two VW Beetles (one done up nice and the other a '55 resto project). We loan each other tools and talk cars all the time. I can't say enough about how awesome it is to have a total gearhead as a neighbor! And for the time when I need someone to "hold this," "screw-in that," or "shine the light here" there are always my siblings or the girly!

I have a complete set that I may be willing to part with. I'll have to check the condition, because I've never used these.

There's a bunch in the bay area craigslist, I just got a vented hatch for $25 the other day. Maybe you know someone there or can arrange something with the sellers.

I don't get what's so funny? That looks like a Porsche 935 with vented wheels that fan heat away from the brakes. Yes, they are functional...

This sounds obvious, but have you gone through the FSM and FI bible and performed the troubleshooting as described? That would be a whole lot simpler than trying to put in a standalone system. The truth is, if you can't make it run now, it probably won't run when you try to install MS. I'm not trying to put you down, but maybe you need to step back and focus on other priorities right now. Believe me, some time away from a project will really help out in all aspects!

Like so? Yes, I did drive it like that...

Here it is, explained in more detail from the posted link:

When anti-lag is used, what you're getting is combustion inside the turbine! With retarded ignition timing and a rich mixture, the exhaust temperature is highly elevated and essentially the flame continues out of the cylinder and into the exhaust/turbine. Yes, burning fuel inside your turbo will make it wear quicker.