Leon

I actually called the guy, and then saw the joke! Guy said he's selling it for $6000, way too much.

That's awesome, I love MST3k!!! Haven't seen an episode in ages...

Acrylic sounds interesting, and it can be cut with a router or most any decent rotary tool. I wonder how well paint would stick to it. Acrylic can be bought from places like McMaster for some DIY fun!

I don't think it should be a huge deal, that's where my other tapped hole is I believe. The hole would be close to the balance tube anyway, so I don't think the effect will be detrimental to performance, and likely to the contrary, be beneficial. It's what I'm planning to do with my triples, so hopefully it works fine that way. You can use a Coke can as a catch can if you want to. No big deal there.

I have triples as well that I will be installing and I was thinking of using the hole in the intake that's provisioned for the vacuum advance for the PCV instead. I don't know how many vacuum provisions you have in your intake, but I have one for the brake booster and one for vacuum advance. I won't be using the vac advance (I'm using the ZX dizzy for my 240Z as well) so I figured that tap is good for something. I'll have to check the threading of the PCV valve and see if I can screw it into the manifold. If not, it can probably be connected in between two lines with one routed to the block and the other to the intake manifold. Like I said, the catch can is your other solution.

That hose looks like the one for the positive crankcase ventilation (PCV) system. It should be plugged into the PCV valve. I see that your running triples and don't have a PCV valve so you can route the hose into a catch-can. Not the best solution but it should work.

Oh man, I can't wait to see this thing running and driving. Great work! :2thumbs:

Exactly! Jasper, how would the radiator cap sense pressure inside the block? It can't, it gets its readings from the radiator since that's where it is installed. The pressure between the pump and thermostat inherently has to be higher than pressure at the cap because of the restriction. Please read the thread that was linked here earlier before making more replies.

NJ-5 is OK. I prefer the BL-7 (Boltzmann-Liebnitz) fluid. It lasts much longer.

Love the 918! The 110 Red isn't bad either, sort of a persimmon color. Dark Blue also looks great but the stock blue isn't dark enough, IMO.

First of all, hot adjustment specs are 0.25mm and 0.30mm not .025mm and .030mm! Secondly, your Z club fellow probably meant .011 inches not millimeters... You need to get the units straight. Also make sure that you are using the correct set of feeler gauges, standard or metric. I'd pull off your valve cover and take a look at your valve train carefully at this point. 0.25mm and 0.30mm translates to about .010" and .012" FWIW. *I got the specs from the 240Z FSM, assuming that valve lash between 240Z and 280Z is the same.

Good work, way to bring that Z back to life!

Hilarious! Thanks for the clip!

That's a very good possibility! Honestly, I was going to copy-paste your post, but I really wanted him to put up the pics of the L6 claiming that it was a Ferrari V12. What a moron. That clip gave me a bad feeling when I first saw it anyway, guy seemed like a typical poseur pretending to be a "car guy". Not gonna be watching that crap again...

That's funny, I just saw a Genesis Coupe on the street today. It looked really good, I've been wanting to test drive one.

Looks and sounds fantastic, great job! Now get a vid of some pulls down the street!

The brake booster has nothing to do with the bleeding. However, the booster is done for and you have a vacuum leak because the diaphragm is broken. Time for a replacement!

Agreed. Looks ready to ride on some railways! I like the wheels but they really need wider tires.

Seconded, for emphasis. It's a great book and it's not expensive at all (~$20). if you want a step by step guide, this is the top dog.

Do you have an extra tie rod to measure? Maybe you can measure the one on your car. Just find the thread pitch and that's how much translational movement you'll get, per turn. Then find out what that equals to in degrees by measuring the steering arm radius and approximating the toe angle change as arcsin(thread pitch/arm length). I think that should work, my Z isn't near me now, so just going off the top of my head. Sorry that I don't have actual numbers. *Of course, it would be wise to measure once you're done as well.

I don't know if I'd wait for it to become an issue with the wife and kids! Nevertheless, lookin' good!

Link removed per request...

Cool, I didn't even realize stores carry pre-flared lines! Good luck!

I just hate when they call and automatically ask for a lower price. I agree to it and they don't show up!

Some links: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/DATSUN-240Z-69-72-STAINLESS-STEEL-BRAKE-LINES-8-PCS_W0QQitemZ320538609336QQihZ011QQcategoryZ33562QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trksidZp4340.m444QQ_trkparmsZalgo%3DCRX%26its%3DC%252BS%26itu%3DSI%252BUA%252BLM%252BLA%26otn%3D5%26ps%3D63%26clkid%3D8251009899107877143 http://www.classictube.com/store/index.cfm?fuseaction=product.display&product_ID=75012 Pre-bent, flared and ready to go. If you want to make your own, might as well get a flaring tool. They're not very expensive.