Leon

Both as they are intertwined. My engine would knock around 3000rpm and up, even with retarded timing, high octane, and a rich mixture. Stupid distributor cap...

I had a similar issue on my L24. It turns out that the new distributor cap didn't fit well, and did not seat correctly. Just to rule out the possibility, make sure the cap is seated well around its whole perimeter, all 360 degrees. I only noticed this when I pulled my distributor. That's my off the wall advice!

Wow, you cleaned her up really nice, great work!

Sorry you're so upset about that, but the term "NVH" is not street-slang, nor is it text message or IM shorthand. It is analogous to saying WOT or EFI. I'm just saying, a one-second google search would easily show the answer. Digression over.

http://lmgtfy.com/?q=nvh

I'm having the same issue, been thinking the same thing... I've noticed a lot of people double and triple posting more often, so I'm guessing this is some site issue?

You think $250 is a lot, LOL! This guy has been asking $400!!! I wonder why they haven't sold yet...

Get the FSM and study how the EFI system works. The Tech Tips link also has a lot of good info. http://www.xenons30.com/reference.html

Holy S***!!! That's how I felt when I saw that. You're right, I did not see that coming!

Not trying to sound harsh here, but the problem is your driving. You are lugging the car, as this is not your old Chevy 350. Downshift and you're good to go. I'd keep the revs above 2500rpm. If you still get resonance you can put a resonator a bit downstream of the exhaust manifold. Sound reduction will depend on which resonator you get.

I agree, as you know you're getting a good deal for a nice car with the Three. If you want carefree and comfortable the 3, or a Honda is really the way to go. On the other hand, if I was you I'd strongly consider an E36 BMW. Yeah, they are older, but that just means you're spending less, and you can probably go out and find a nice example for a relatively low amount of money. My dad and I found a '93 318iS with 5 speed and 200,000 miles at an auction last year. It is in very good condition for its age. We replaced the oil, front control arms, some bushings and the radio. I've driven it a few times and even though it's a 318, it's a hell of a lot of fun to drive! Feels very tight, engine has good compression (10:1 factory!) and BMW just makes (made) everything feel right. The E36 really is well done. If you find a good example, save yourself $10k and have a fun DD. You'll have to do some maintenance, but if you can do simple stuff you'll save some cash there too. They're not hard to work on. My brother drives the car now (S/C Previa died) and it really makes me want to get an E36 (6 cylinder, the 4 is lacking for my tastes) as my next DD, although I've been salivating over S2000s for a long time now. Good luck in your search!

I was just talking to a bodywork/paint friend of mine recently about painting my Z. He said that if the original paint is in "good" condition (i.e. no cracking, peeling, not easy to remove) then there should be no need to completely strip the paint. As said above, scuff it up so the new stuff adheres to it and you're good to go.

Good point. I'd be running triples if I had a set. I suppose the simplicity of the dual SU setup comes with its fair share of compromises. Thanks! Leon EDIT: To keep this on topic, I'm thinking the O2 sensor port you're (OP) talking about is really an EGR port. I don't think MSA headers come with O2 ports, but I may be wrong there. With that said, it makes sense to have the O2 located after the primaries, or else you're not getting the big picture.

That's very interesting insight! Did you try other SU manifolds (N36?) for comparison? I'll be running SUs when my engine is finished so I'm definitely interested if you have any other info on this.

Haha, those bits of wire get me every time! I'll check out the scotchbrite wheels, good tip. I've been using this paint (got it at Home Depot) and mine have been turning out pretty good, I just hope the paint lasts. Good luck!

He is obviously employing the principles of Milliken's Camber Car :

Nice work, I've been following this thread for a little while. I've been cleaning up and painting my suspension parts as well. I was curious as to what your method is, and what have you been using for paint? I've been cleaning mine up with a wire wheel (angle grinder), light sanding where needed and then applying some rattle can Rustoleum. Your parts look very nice!

Look for rust on the body.

Yes, a mark that shows the alignment of the caps with the head. Here is a quick search result: http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php?/topic/79242-can-the-hole-in-the-cylinder-head-for-the-cam-tower-bolt-be-repaired/page__p__752837__hl__removing%20cam%20towers__fromsearch__1entry752837 Link from resulting thread: http://community.ratsun.net/index.php?showtopic=10760

I believe he means longitudinal alignment, as in all the holes line up so the cam doesn't bind, not vertical. Even then, there is a method to getting all the towers on correctly. Scribing where all the towers are before removal is helpful. It should all be there if you do a good search.

Nope, wave reflection happens with a change in diameter, whether it's a sudden change (step) or gradual change (bell mouth). The advantage of a bell mouth is the desired reflection happens over a wider frequency (RPM range), thus a bell mouth can be said to have a higher bandwidth than a step. There are other advantages such as decreasing entrance losses but that all belongs in another topic. Having an air-box over the bell mouth will not do anything to strengthen the reflection of the intake pressure wave. You say it "feels better" and "a little more torque is produced," but a quantification on the dyno will tell you the actual story.

Great job on the car! I think the steering (turn in, response, etc.) feels better because 240Z has a lower steering ratio. This means that when driving the 240Z (vs. the 280Z), a turn of a steering wheel results in more steering angle. The lighter weight of the 240Z helps out too.

I'm sure many have done it, it's not a hard job, that is if you're talking about an L-series in a Z-car. Giving us info on your car is important. I did it when I first bought my Z, I think I was going off of the ZTherapy tune-up video if I remember right. The biggest, most important thing to do is to wedge the timing chain so that the tensioner doesn't move. Everything else is simple, just follow the manual or search the archives on the details.

San Luis Obispo... SLO needs to speed up! People drive like they're half asleep. The short on and off ramps don't help either. I get on it to hop on the freeway but others are going 35-45mph when merging! People merge to the left to get away from that mess also. It's partly on-ramp design, but a much bigger part driver ignorance/stupidity. San Diego was the same, everyone is so sleepy and unaware except everyone drove way too damn fast. Driving through LA has to be the worst thing I have subjected myself to.