Leon

Good work, way to bring that Z back to life!

Hilarious! Thanks for the clip!

That's a very good possibility! Honestly, I was going to copy-paste your post, but I really wanted him to put up the pics of the L6 claiming that it was a Ferrari V12. What a moron. That clip gave me a bad feeling when I first saw it anyway, guy seemed like a typical poseur pretending to be a "car guy". Not gonna be watching that crap again...

That's funny, I just saw a Genesis Coupe on the street today. It looked really good, I've been wanting to test drive one.

Looks and sounds fantastic, great job! Now get a vid of some pulls down the street!

The brake booster has nothing to do with the bleeding. However, the booster is done for and you have a vacuum leak because the diaphragm is broken. Time for a replacement!

Agreed. Looks ready to ride on some railways! I like the wheels but they really need wider tires.

Do you have an extra tie rod to measure? Maybe you can measure the one on your car. Just find the thread pitch and that's how much translational movement you'll get, per turn. Then find out what that equals to in degrees by measuring the steering arm radius and approximating the toe angle change as arcsin(thread pitch/arm length). I think that should work, my Z isn't near me now, so just going off the top of my head. Sorry that I don't have actual numbers. *Of course, it would be wise to measure once you're done as well.

I don't know if I'd wait for it to become an issue with the wife and kids! Nevertheless, lookin' good!

Link removed per request...

Cool, I didn't even realize stores carry pre-flared lines! Good luck!

I just hate when they call and automatically ask for a lower price. I agree to it and they don't show up!

Some links: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/DATSUN-240Z-69-72-STAINLESS-STEEL-BRAKE-LINES-8-PCS_W0QQitemZ320538609336QQihZ011QQcategoryZ33562QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trksidZp4340.m444QQ_trkparmsZalgo%3DCRX%26its%3DC%252BS%26itu%3DSI%252BUA%252BLM%252BLA%26otn%3D5%26ps%3D63%26clkid%3D8251009899107877143 http://www.classictube.com/store/index.cfm?fuseaction=product.display&product_ID=75012 Pre-bent, flared and ready to go. If you want to make your own, might as well get a flaring tool. They're not very expensive.

2nd that...

John brings up a good point. Why did you route the lines across the crossmember and not the firewall, as was originally done? Trying to save on materials?

Get the Y-pipe. As long as the design is not restrictive (I don't think it should be because the MSA one collects into 2.5" piping, I believe) then it should be beneficial. You will gain cylinder scavenging from having the exhaust flow collect into one pipe.

That's really high compression for an L engine. I would suspect detonation issues unless you are using high octane gasoline.

Looks like a mini-C3 'Vette with an ugly top. It's not horrid, and the 351 is a nice touch. I have to agree with Geking in that it interrupts the natural flow of the Z, especially with that nasty top up!

Yeah, Tony just told you exactly what you need to do. Check out the cam degreeing sticky in this section.

I have a urethane BRE "Spook" type air dam. I'm located on the peninsula, and I'll be up there for memorial day weekend at the soonest. How's $75 sound?

That looks fantastic!!! Can't wait to see it mounted and in action!

Video says it is a one-off 600hp car. We need videos, it's pretty sweet!!!

Cold turkey. I like your style!

As discussed in the thread, there is a significant distinction between the job of the header and collector and the long exhaust pipe. If you size your exhaust pipe to "keep velocities up" you are robbing yourself of torque, since frictional losses are increased by both decreasing pipe diameter and increasing velocity. Frictional losses go up with velocity squared. Add in the long length of the pipe and some bends, and even more torque is lost. Thus, with a properly designed exhaust, there is no "too big" when it comes to performance. Otherwise, there is a "too big" and it's when you can't fit it under the car anymore! Of course, there comes a point of diminishing returns (upping diameter has negligible gain) and that's when you've sized the pipe properly. Scavenging is the purpose of the header and collector, and possibly a tuned length of exhaust, not your long pipe that goes out back!

Right. As I've said, we need the pipe because its purpose is to route the gasses to the back of the car. We need exhaust pipes, and you are right in that a "properly" designed exhaust system won't have a performance hit, besides the weight. I've been jumping around it, but what I'm trying to do here is construct an explanation dispelling the myth that a big exhaust pipe will hurt low end torque, or that you need a stock style exhaust or else you lose power. It will do nothing but help torque over the entire rpm range when compared to a smaller pipe.