Leon

Yes, that's essentially what was already said. All these tubes do is cancel out a certain frequency from escaping the exhaust, thus changing the sound and volume coming out.

Sorry, what was that? I had to do it!

Yes, that's a trait of the Jaguar rear suspension.

Simpler answer: drill the holes. There is no way of getting around poor progression hole placement.

Pontiac Trans Sport.

Thanks for the tip! Looks like the '01 Z06 is the only one in my price range, and apparently some of those early ones had oil burning issues. There is an '01 in my area that I may check out, but it won't be realistic unless they can come down on the price quite a bit. I think I'd love an M Coupe but a well-priced, good condition S2000 may also sway me! The search continues.

Just pop off a few plug wires when your wife drives it.

Good stuff, now I need to do this! On the joint you couldn't reach, that's what spray grease is for!

Well, last Saturday I was supposed to check out an '04 S2000 with 55k miles, original owner, in nice shape, and advertised for $12.3k! Well, after exchanging a few emails with him, he never called me. Moving on... I then set up a couple of appointments to check out a couple of other S2000s in the area, an '03 with 83k miles and '02 with 67k. Both were silver with black interior. I could've picked up the '03 for $10.5 but it had a dent in the bottom of the fender, minor rear main leak and needed new tires/brakes. I could probably get the '02 for $12.5 and it is in pretty good shape, doesn't need anything besides greasing the starter (grinds on startup sometimes). However, it just didn't strike that chord within me. For some reason I didn't get the feeling of "this is exactly what I'm looking for". Frankly, I was very surprised by how I felt! All these years I thought I needed a wingman to stop me from tossing cash at the seller upon first sight. So the search continues. I've been keeping an eye out for a Z06, and there are some in the area. However, they tend to either be pristine, low mile examples, salvaged titles, or are offered at way over my budget. I haven't driven one yet due to the fact that I'd be wasting my, and the sellers, time. The M Coupes are tougher to find, but I have checked one out. Those are staying under consideration for the fact that they are awesome cars to look at and drive. As much as I want one, I think it would be more difficult for me to have a nice M Coupe as a daily driver (compared to an S2000) because of the rarity, reliability/age concerns, and not to mention the not-as-great gas mileage. This is proving to be difficult!

As I said in another forum, sounds like the pedal is getting caught on your carpet.

The only way to make a good decision is to understand what you're choosing between. In this case, search is your friend. Understand how an engine works, read up on carbs, read up on EFI and then make the decision. By "read up" I don't mean glance at something for 10 seconds, but thoroughly study what you're getting yourself into.

Good point, and after re-reading my last post, I edited it to reflect what I meant (which was not what I wrote ).

When work is slow, I purposefully stay off the forums for a day so that I have something to do! However, when we're busy, I have been known to go without lunch... it's a balance thing I guess.

Generally, it needs a tire that can provide enough traction (essentially friction force) at the wheels when 400hp is applied (assume 200whp per wheel), at a normal load of 700lb per wheel (assuming no weight transfer on inital take-off, and symmetrical weight distribution). Power is Torque X Speed, so depending on what the roadwheel speed is when you're making 400whp (depends on what gear you're in), you can calculate the torque at the wheel. Knowing the rolling radius of the wheel, you can then calculate the force that the tire must support in order to sustain that power. The hard part is finding the tire data to match up to your calculations. You're just not going to get it unless you work for a big-time race team. Hence, I gave the recommendation (paraphrased) of "put tire on, press down pedal. Traction or no traction?" There are just simply too many factors involved in making these generalizations. If you are truly that concerned, then it comes down to testing different sizes and compounds on the surface that you plan to run on. Experienced racers may be able to give you a loose suggestion based on what they've done but it's hard to say that XXX tire will be perfect for you, while sitting behind a computer. My general recommendation is fit the biggest tire as you realistically can on the rim and get the stickiest compound that you can, and that will be the best that you can do to "hook up" at 400hp. Any less, and you're taking away performance. If you want to talk road course, then you need a sufficiently stiff sidewall (not a big, bulging tire trying to swallow the rim). EDIT: Clarified a statement.

:lol: OMG, that is hilarious! ModernS30, forget what I said, you're threatening my ability to browse HybridZ at work.

FWIW, headlight buckets go for about $20-30 a piece. A G-Nose is going to cost you magnitudes more than a couple of headlight buckets and random bits like the grill, etc. However, if the G-Nose is exactly what you want, then go for it.

Race Car Vehicle Dynamics ("the Milliken book") has a nice section on tire physics and is overall a great book. You'll likely have to read each section multiple times and take some time for it to sink in, but it has some great information.

This is called the "weed through" period of engineering school. Online homework is a terrible thing, make sure your professors understand this. Make sure you show them what happened and they'll help you out. Don't be scared to come to office hours! However, some students will quit because of it and others will plow on. It depends on whether you have the will and determination to go through stuff like this. Many times, the "weeding out" period does a decent job of sorting out those that are truly uninterested or incapable. Of course, some programs are better than others so use you judgment and more importantly others' experiences (hopefully someone older than you/alumni that went through the same program) in order to decide whether it's worth it for you. I got as many books off Amazon, or other sources, as I could. BTW, this is just a tip, but don't sell the books that are important to what you're studying. They'll come in handy as reference material. I hear you on the financial side of it and that is definitely a huge problem in the US. Fees were continually being hiked while I was in college, and I'm sure the trend will continue. I never did buy a parking pass throughout the duration of college (stick it to the Man!), I always scouted out the area and found the free spots whether I lived on or off campus. I enjoyed a longer walk to class, anyway. Good luck and YMMV.

I run my triples from the stock mechanical pump, but I'm planning to wire in an RX7 pump I have laying around in the future. Search for fuel pump and Webers and you'll find tons of info.

Here are the tire/wheel sizes in response to a PM, the setup is 16X7 wheels and 225/50-16 tires all around.

This would require an assumption that the relationship between tire size and maximum grip is a linear one, and that all equally-sized tires are equal. There are a ton of variables that play into this, so I would have serious trouble making these assumptions. IMO, there are two ways to choose a tire, either experimentally or from the manufacturer's tire data. 99.9% of the time, you don't have access to tire data which means you should go about it experientally. The right tire is the fastest one.

1)P30/E31 is an L24 2)The manifold is an E88, it does not mean that it came from an E88 head. That's a stock, round-top manifold 3)The flat- and round-tops are both "performance" carbs, people just don't like the flat-tops 4)See #1. I agree, run it if it's in good shape and don't worry about what's inside You're going to have to put in some of your own research. There is a ton of information out there. BTW, you can use carbs on an EFI head...

If your old transmission is truly a Nissan (not Borg Warner) ZX unit, then the transmission you picked up is not a Z or ZX one. The spline count on all Z and ZX transmissions is the same, barring the T5 that came with the ZX Turbo (not sure on that one), so there should not be spline meshing issues.

The 280ZX cooling fan mounts differently from the 240Z fan. Take a look at my cooling fan for EDIS thread.