Leon

Beck/Arnley doesn't manufacture anything, as far as I know. From what I understand, they are purely a distributor. Regardless, I was happy with my B/A ball joints, they were the 555 brand.

Looks like somebody didn't read the thread...

I like Ross's suggestion. I would use Loctite blue at the very least.

This is a serious question? Initially, I was surprised to see the "$150 or best offer" at the top of the CL ad. I understood why as I scrolled down. Looks like it's had at least one collision and I'm willing to bet that there is more rust than good metal on that car.

If it happens in neutral and under load, I would infer that the problem is ignition related. Make sure that your advance is working, use a timing light for this. I'll actually be in your area (San Mateo) tomorrow afternoon and can possibly come by and take a look. I'll PM you.

I don't believe everything I read either. However, when searching about tach issues, I noted that the highest percentage of reported failures were 260Z tachs. I don't consider someone saying that the tach is broken in their 260Z as bad information.

Nice! They make for great wall art, I love walking into the garage to do laundry only to find myself staring at the headers.

Unvented blow-by gasses or raw gas washing out the oil on the cylinder walls can make your oil smell like fuel. Check/refresh your PCV system and change your oil. Perform a compression test as well.

The 260Z tachs, at least the early ones, were the most prone to failure. Just search around on tach failures and you'll see this. My 260Z had the tach die, so I put in a 280Z tach and it's worked like a charm since. The 260Z was the first in line to get electronic ignition and it seems as though there were some teething issues with the tach, which were then solved by the more robust 280Z tach. If you're concerned about face-plates, those are easily swapped.

It's not like these things have huge profit margins... If you can't afford the $400, you're going to have to make them yourself, unless someone is generous and is willing to sell you a discounted set.

Time for some shameless pic whoring! My Nissan Motorsports Comp header: I believe what you have is indeed the MSA 3-2 header. If you can't tell, I have an unnatural lust, fetish if you will, for Z headers!

I'll reiterate the generalizations, from which you can then approximate "where" and "how big". Longer means you get a boost over a longer range of rpm, but at the same time it decreases the amount of extra torque. A bigger difference in inlet/outlet diameters will increase the effect, but since you have already set your inlet and outlet diameters, then you can't do anything with that. Placing the megaphone upstream shifts its powerband influence to higher rpm, and placing it further downstream shifts its influence to lower rpm. Now, if you want take the suggestions given in David's (1 tuff z) link, they imply that a 9 degree transition is a good compromise. Whether that's true or not is up to interpretation, but it's a start. Given that you're not going to be doing testing of different exhaust combinations, I think it's safe to say that you'll be in the 7-9 degree range. If you do the math, the length comes out to about 1.6 inches for a 9 degree taper, if I did that correctly.

Furthermore, the proper length for one guy is not necessarily the proper one for the next. In order to properly size your megaphone, you must take into account the causalities posted in this thread (longer megaphone = wider bandwidth/smaller magnitude, and vice versa) as well as perform resonance calculations, taking into account gas temps, pipe diameter, valve timing, etc. This, along with your goals (location and width of powerband) will determine megaphone size and location. Of course, you can always say the hell with it, and slap it in there. Just don't expect to get exactly what you want.

Ultimately, your wipe pattern is what you're trying to set correctly. The rocker has a pivot on one end (adjuster side) and a lash pad on top of a valve on the other. The cam hits the rocker somewhere in between. The lash pad combines with the pivot to set the rocker surface a certain distance away from the cam base circle. Draw up a sketch and it will sink in. Use search terms such as "cam wipe pattern" to help you. Thicker lash pads can be machined down to match your specs, and I think ZCCJDM is reproducing lash pads in different sizes as well. You can also use shims in place of (or underneath) lash pads when testing wipe patterns.

No problem. Some dyno results would be great! I've used Burns Stainless in the past, check their site. You can have a custom one made, cut up an existing one, or make it yourself. For option 2, you can buy one that has too small of an inlet and/or too big of an outlet, do some quick math, and cut them to size.

That's a way of looking at it, yes. I would prefer a 3" flange, and an even better option is a 2.5" flange to 3" pipe with a megaphone in between. In your case, I would prefer to integrate a megaphone post-collector, that tapers from 2.5" back to 3" diameter. Taper angle and location will alter its effect, as discussed within this thread.

This is going to be a street car, so I'd wait for an LSD. I'm thinking of the fun/(inconvenience+danger) factor. You're not going to enjoy making tight turns with a welded diff, and there are the aforementioned safety concerns about using it on the street. Get the car driveable and then worry about open vs LSD. A diff is not difficult to change, especially after the work you're putting into that car. An open diff is far from a deal-breaker when talking about Z-cars and fun! As JM mentions, you need more rear brake in the rain. Dialing it down is just making it more dangerous.

Then why say it at all, Jon Kyl? http://www.colbertnation.com/the-colbert-report-videos/381282/april-11-2011/pap-smears-at-walgreens

Doesn't look like an LSD to me, but I'm no diff expert.

Never pull out a threaded fastener with channel locks. Use two nuts as lock-nuts, by turning them against each other. Having said that, I've never removed the oil filter stud and am not sure of how it's fastened to the block off the top of my head.

I use Redline whenever possible.

I paid something like $25 shipped for my purple pinion, FWIW.

Dan, I recently bought a purple pinion from nissanpartszone.com. What I did was find the Nissan part number (found an old CZC thread that has a scan from Alan, post #3) and copy+paste into the site. Try courtesyparts.com and nissanparts.cc if the first site doesn't have it. Good luck!

You've got it backwards, all half-shafts are equal-lengths. It's the stubs which snap into the differential that are different lengths. Did this solve the issue?

I'm not understanding the basis of this statement. Do you suggest that you need/want EGR in order to have best performance at a leaner mixture? To the contrary, the more EGR you introduce into the cylinder, the less tolerant the engine will be of lean running. EGR not only increases burn duration (this is why spark timing must be advanced with EGR) but also has a diluting effect, similar to leaning out the mixture. This has a destabilizing effect on combustion. Really, the leaner you go, the less EGR you want (or need!). NOx emissions drop off after they peak slightly lean of stoichiometric.