Leon

My suggestion is to remove the exhaust manifold and if the stud protrudes enough, clamp down on the stud with your bench vise. You will have a bunch of clamping power, plus you can use whole exhaust manifold as a lever when you try to turn the stud out. Make sure to use heat, and be careful with the mating surface. I've removed a frozen stud from a head using this method, when nothing else worked. However, any time you remove one manifold, you should remove the other. Not only does this make the process easier, but you really should put a new intake/exhaust gasket in if ever the old one is disturbed. Just remove the manifolds, it's an easy job as long as you're careful with the studs. Use penetrant and heat if necessary. Be sure to keep fuel lines away and a fire extinguisher handy if using heat. It's not as bad of a job as it seems.

In no way is manifold velocity constant, it's a complex, pulsed flow. Besides that, I'm not even sure what you mean by "the air-fuel builds up". I think Steve's got his answer. This SU carb psuedo-theory is just clouding up the thread.

That's not the correct etymology of the "constant velocity" term. Also, there is no "great feat of Japanese engineering" here. The natural firing order for any inline-6 is 1-5-3-6-2-4 and there were straight-sixes with twin SUs way before the 240Z, e.g. the Jaguar XK140, predating the first Z by 16 years. FYI...

No can do, I'm a header hoarder. Nice, Ryan. I can assure you that it will be nice and loud!

$33k is definitely not cheap, even for this one, but a cool car nonetheless!

She convinced me to buy my first Z. Enough said!!!

Why is this thread here? This should be in the non tech section.

Attaway! The company in the first link is actually where I got my hub adapter from. Looks like they increased in price since last year though, they were $66 and now are $75.

Well yes, the gear reduction starter does have more mechanical advantage than the other. I've had no problems with the stock S30 starters.

I think I documented it in my build thread, but my hub+wheel combo put the steering wheel exactly where the stock one was! That was the only thing that kept me from pulling the trigger, until I found a wheel on CL said the hell with it. I did make sure to get a wheel with low dish (Momo Race) and it's worked out well.

I have a 350mm Momo Race that I found on CL for $100 (did pay around $70 for the right hub, though). Feel and effort are great, unless you're trying to park/leave a tight parking spot.

Beck/Arnley doesn't manufacture anything, as far as I know. From what I understand, they are purely a distributor. Regardless, I was happy with my B/A ball joints, they were the 555 brand.

Looks like somebody didn't read the thread...

I like Ross's suggestion. I would use Loctite blue at the very least.

This is a serious question? Initially, I was surprised to see the "$150 or best offer" at the top of the CL ad. I understood why as I scrolled down. Looks like it's had at least one collision and I'm willing to bet that there is more rust than good metal on that car.

If it happens in neutral and under load, I would infer that the problem is ignition related. Make sure that your advance is working, use a timing light for this. I'll actually be in your area (San Mateo) tomorrow afternoon and can possibly come by and take a look. I'll PM you.

I don't believe everything I read either. However, when searching about tach issues, I noted that the highest percentage of reported failures were 260Z tachs. I don't consider someone saying that the tach is broken in their 260Z as bad information.

Nice! They make for great wall art, I love walking into the garage to do laundry only to find myself staring at the headers.

Unvented blow-by gasses or raw gas washing out the oil on the cylinder walls can make your oil smell like fuel. Check/refresh your PCV system and change your oil. Perform a compression test as well.

The 260Z tachs, at least the early ones, were the most prone to failure. Just search around on tach failures and you'll see this. My 260Z had the tach die, so I put in a 280Z tach and it's worked like a charm since. The 260Z was the first in line to get electronic ignition and it seems as though there were some teething issues with the tach, which were then solved by the more robust 280Z tach. If you're concerned about face-plates, those are easily swapped.

It's not like these things have huge profit margins... If you can't afford the $400, you're going to have to make them yourself, unless someone is generous and is willing to sell you a discounted set.

Time for some shameless pic whoring! My Nissan Motorsports Comp header: I believe what you have is indeed the MSA 3-2 header. If you can't tell, I have an unnatural lust, fetish if you will, for Z headers!

I'll reiterate the generalizations, from which you can then approximate "where" and "how big". Longer means you get a boost over a longer range of rpm, but at the same time it decreases the amount of extra torque. A bigger difference in inlet/outlet diameters will increase the effect, but since you have already set your inlet and outlet diameters, then you can't do anything with that. Placing the megaphone upstream shifts its powerband influence to higher rpm, and placing it further downstream shifts its influence to lower rpm. Now, if you want take the suggestions given in David's (1 tuff z) link, they imply that a 9 degree transition is a good compromise. Whether that's true or not is up to interpretation, but it's a start. Given that you're not going to be doing testing of different exhaust combinations, I think it's safe to say that you'll be in the 7-9 degree range. If you do the math, the length comes out to about 1.6 inches for a 9 degree taper, if I did that correctly.

Furthermore, the proper length for one guy is not necessarily the proper one for the next. In order to properly size your megaphone, you must take into account the causalities posted in this thread (longer megaphone = wider bandwidth/smaller magnitude, and vice versa) as well as perform resonance calculations, taking into account gas temps, pipe diameter, valve timing, etc. This, along with your goals (location and width of powerband) will determine megaphone size and location. Of course, you can always say the hell with it, and slap it in there. Just don't expect to get exactly what you want.