Scottie-GNZ

Is that a 4 or 6cyl power? Any word on how the testing went at Bradenton on Saturday?

Stony, is that an estimate or a quote? I looked into this a while back and they quoted me $189/ea but for the Fly Star.

Mike, couple of ways to find out: 1. Someone local lets you do a trial fit. 2. Someone on the forum measures the inside diameter of theirs and you measure from the center of the hub to the top of the caliper and compare that to half of the wheel inside diameter 3. Call Weld and see if they can tell you the inside diameter.

Hey Lee, welcome. They have not thrown me out yet so you are probably a keeper :D Awesome car!

Pete, you have been throught hell and back. Wish you a speedy recovery and best of health moving forward. I know you now have a new perspective on life.

I continue to be amazed that folks think they need those incredibly complex and fragile bundle of snakes while "poor Tim" is "making do" with 600hp and that apparently simple manifold . I have similar sentiments about DPs but I wont go there.

C-16 is 117 MON!!

You know why I switched to the 7 and you have ridden in the 7. No way I can go back now that my old bones have gotten used Caddy-like ride :D

http://www.turbobuicks.com/forums/showthread.php?t=52439

That's the point of the VP methanol.

A rabid fan here!

The correct way to use these additives is not to put it in your tank but inject it into the mixture on demand. The financial aspect aside, putting it in your tank means it is going into the engine all the time, even when the engine is just idling! Sure you can elect to not put it in the tank sometime, but for the folks who like to clear out the combustion chambers on the street , you cannot ask the guy next to you to wait up while you calculate how much you need to attain the 20% mixture and then pour it in :D. With a 16-gal tank, you would need 3.2 gals for a 20% mixture for each fill-up. I do not street race so I use almost none on the street. At the track I use about 12-13 ounces/pass, so that's about 10 passes/gal for a 560rwhp car. That is VP Methanol @ $3.39/gal with pump gas, 23* timing and 27psi boost from a t-66. Think I only have 94.3 R+M/2 when I am running as the article suggests? I do not agree with the octane numbers he posted and what the article fails to mention is the incredible benefit that these additives provide related to heat, especially on a turbo engine. Last time I ran it was a 90* hot/humid night and I had an overheating problem. Went thru the traps with 27psi boost and a coolant temp of 210* but the intake temp measured behind the TB was 107*. As a comparison, Z-Gad goes thru the traps with an intake temp about 168*. Yes, buying or building a progressive injection system is the way to go and it does cost upfront $$$. In the long run it will pay for itself by you buying less of the additives and not wasting it on warmup, idle and cruising, figuring out mixtures, and if the corrosive properties are true, potentially damaging components. What I can say is that VP methanol does have a slight oil additive and anyone who injects it and has ever pulled an engine apart sees components that look like they just came from the machine shop.

Huh? How about maybe an arab in his traditional dress?

Lets go back and look at the design Mike has pictured. The intake charge enters the I/C and is pointed directly towards the other end. The shape of the tank helps the charge maintain velocity and forces the charge downward. Also keep in mind that the entire I/C is pressurized.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/LAMBO-REP-500H-P-AND-BAD-TO-THE-BONE_W0QQitemZ4645398660QQihZ002QQcategoryZ6290QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

I have never been a fan of big blocks in the nose of a Z car. If you are not emotionally tied to those engines, consider sellng them and use the funds to build a 427ci engine based on a 351 and maybe have $$$ leftover for a solid rear swap. With this you get the best of both worlds: the big cubic inches and smallblock weight that will help with F-R weight distribution and better traction and maybe even funds for a rear end that can hold up.

My reference to the reliability of the 4.3L on boost is limited to what I hear and know about them as used in the Sy/Tys. All that goes out the window when you start talking bowtie blocks, custom internals and shop specials. Still do not know what your idea of big HP is, but keep this is mind. When you get these little V-6s wound up on boost and pushing 600-700hp, you are talking mega, tranny-breaking torque, enough to break a T56. I am not talking about hopped-up smallblock torque, but bigblock-on-steroids torque, like 650-700lb/ft. The T56 can probably live but it depends on how you intend to use the car. In case it is not clear to most, GM trannies have 2 different bolt patterns referred to the Chevy and the BOP (Buick-Olds-Pontiac). Obviously the T56 would bolt right up to the cylinder-challenged SBC :D and the Buick V6 would need an adaptor like the one in the pic.

Not sure what your idea of "disgusting power level" is, but 600rwhp from a huffing big-inch V6 will get your attention (and the track owners) in a hurry. Remember, my 2750# GNZ was "only" pushing 520rwhp, calculated with a 1/4-mile formula, which probably means ~540 peak on a dyno or 650 at the crank with a 17% drivetrain loss. Got your attention? So why not a Buick V6? For whatever reason, they hold up better under high boost. My current engine is a pedestrian vintage 4.1L shortblock found in generic early-80s GM grocery getters. Those engines have the same crank and rods as the 3.8L turbo. I am still running the stock pieces with ARP rod bolts and a girdle. The pistons are SpeedPro hypers with the coated skirts (oh sacre bleu!), OEM timing gear set and a mild cam. Heads are ported stockers with ARP head studs and a port-matched intake, stock headers and a T-66/P-trim turbo. Top that off with a good I/C, DP/WG/exhaust, TEC and she is purring at almost 27psi on pump gas and alky injection. Real exotic and expensive stuff, huh? BTW, it sounds like you want to build a TT engine just because you have that hood.

Nobody buys a GN just to get a GN motor. GNs are somewhat rare but the drivetrain is exactly the same as was found in the Turbo Regals. While not as common as SBCs or SBFs, they do become available but you have to be at the right place at the right time with cash in the ready. As for the 240SX swap, I looked into it and here is what I saw. You will have to build a custom cross-member and relocate the steering rack as they are in the middle of the engine compartment and would be directly under the engine. A skilled fabricator can do this but probably not so if you are looking for an easy drop-in. The tranny tunnel is also very narrow. The tunnel has to accomodate the tranny bellhousing and have some room for the turbo DP, typically 3". You could probably run the DP down low but a 3" DP might cause some ground clearance issues. Last but not least, the car would be somewhat undriveable with the 4.10:1 final drive so a ratio swap would eventually have to be done.

Would the LS1 mounts work for a non-LS engine? I have a friend interested in swapping in an 84 C4 350/700R4 into an N/A.

Come on folks, lets not make this sound like anyone is crying foul, picking on anyone or this being competition. Anyone going 9s or 10s know how tough that is and has a real appreciation for what it takes to go 8s, no matter what the setup is. J.T. talked about his car and its performance and I thought that folks should know it is a 2200# tube chassis car. He then asked why is everyone's Z so heavy and that got answered, both with smilies :D :D As for us "young guys" picking on an old guy............uhhh, what was I talking about again?

Because for the most part they are stock chassised, stock suspension, full interior street cars. The only thing Z-Gad's car is missing is the carpet. It has humungous 17s on the front, heavy 16x9s with 255 DRs on the rear, 10-pt mild steel cage and stock IRS with an R200. Mine was also stock chassis, with 40lbs of bracing over the full length of the frame rails, C4 IRS with 3" steel halfshafts, full interior, 6-pt rollbar and my 225# "dead" weight . Both cars driven trouble-free to/from the SEZ, almost 400 miles each way.

J.T., you forgot to mention a minor detail, a near 2000Lb car. Hmmm, I wonder what Z-Gad or even me would run if we had a near 2000lb car :D