Scottie-GNZ

Anyone out there capable of performing a quick carfax check for me? If so, please PM or email me for the VIN.

TII = 86-91 RX7 Turbo II The machinist decided what material to use to weld up the adaptor. The TII CVs are the opposite configuraation of the Z CVs. The TII diff has a stub and the CV has a 4-bolt flange that bolts to the diff stub and an integrated stub that goes into the hub. The Z has the integrated stub that goes into the diff and a 6-bolt flange that bolts to the stub axle that goes into the hub. That reads funny but sure you know what I mean.

Good luck. This is what I have in my FC RX7 but it is going to be a lot more difficult to do in the Z.

Dont equate the price of meth to the price of gas because you do not use it the same way. You only need to inject meth when the engine demands it. In my case, I start injecting at 6psi. If I drive the car for a week and never go over 6psi, it does not use a drop. However, if you are always dogging the car and always in boost, you are going to use it a lot. As for the difference between water and meth inj, it can be summed up simply. Water has a high specific heat rating meaning it can absorb a lot of heat while only slowly increasing in temperature. Methanol is a fast acting cooling agent that will also reduce temperature like water. However, water is water and does not burn while meth is a secondary fuel with a very high octane rating, but there is more to meth than just the octance rating. Hopefully this will not bore you but will explain how it really works and why it works so well. Any fuel put into the engine needs heat to convert it into a vapor. Meth has 3.5 times more BTU/lb than gasoline and that means it requires a lot of heat to turn it into vapor. That heat is drawn from the inlet tract, piston crown, combustion chamber and valves resulting cooler internal engine parts. The rest you can figure out....more octane and cooler internal engine parts means more power. If you are not into racing and just want a cooler intake charge, a water/meth or alky mix would work well for you. BTW, you think meth is expensive? Look at the price of denaured alky next time you go into Home Depot.

We seem to be talking apples and oranges here. I believe you are talking to the issues of running pure alcohol which I agree with all your points. I am talking about injecting methanol as a supplement when the engine demands more fuel. In my case no meth is injected in my engine unless the boost goes over 6psi and it progressively increases the volume with boost. If I drive my car for a week w/o getting into boost, not a drop of meth ever gets into the engine. When I race I use 12-15ozs a pass with pump gas for 600rwhp. After well over a year of using it, I and not a single turbo Buick car using it has any of the issues you referring to. I just had my engine apart and it looks like it is still brand new with absolutely no signs of any of the "bad" things you are referring to. BTW, in case I did not make it clear enough, that 7-sec Vette I referred to is INJECTING methanol as a supplement in lieu of an I/C. These are the kinds of generic discussions that does a well engineered meth/alky injection system a disservice. OTOH, there are still people who believe that nitrous will blow your engine up and guns shoot people :D

Yes, alcohol can absorb moisture and can cause corrosion.......if it is not stored in the proper container, if standard rubber and metal fuel lines are used, if you are using pumps not designed for it like cheap windshield washer pumps etc that dump the alky instead injecting at high pressure, blah, blah, blah. Like nitrous a couple of years ago, alky injection systems have come a long way. Key word system, those that include sealed alky-tolerant containers that prevents corrosion and contamination, teflon-lined braided hose, brass fittings, nozzles that mist not dump and progressive electronic controllers. Was not long ago that people were saying nitrous is dangerous and can blow your engine up. People will eventually realize that alky injection is now an EXCELLENT substitute for big HP street cars and is catching on with the racers. The success that Garrett and I are having are prime examples of how a well designed system can work. At the recent World StreetNationals, this "innocent-looking" Vette, http://www.raceworksgallery.com/2006/orlando/cars/gwr_6044.htm, running an SB2 with a rear-mounted single turbo and injecting methanol in lieu of an massive A-W I/C systems most turbo race cars run today. Car went 7.70 .......... on DRs. Think the other racers are not noticing?

Simple solution I came up with several years ago. Simple and inexpensive steel strap that prevents the diff nose from lifting but retains the original rubber insulator and all its benefits. Not elegant, but effective enough to work for the massive turbo Buick torque before I switched to the C4 IRS.

SMART! You might have to buy a new car or a coffin when the water from that headlight sprayer drips on the road at 120mph. Using the a/c in conjunction with an I/C is not new but has not taken off because of the complexity and expense. Meth inj, when done right, really works folks. Just look at what Garrett's setup is doing. I am pushing 600rwhp, 27psi boost on pump gas with hyper pistons and intake temps in the 70-80* range going thru the traps in the heat of Orlando. Today, quality I/Cs have become so cheap, you can now afford to have a good I/C and a good meth inj system for an unbeatable combo to make lots of power safely without the expense of $10/gal race gas. High quality meth, like the one from VP, is about $3.30/gal and I inject about 12+ozs/pass for 600rwhp. Do the math and you see the cost benefits. A lot of folks prefer a DIY approach, and nothing wrong with that but it cannot match a quality progressively controlled system that injects only what the engine is demanding. The bottom line is that meth/alky inj is now a real alternative for something like what you are considering.

Another point of clarification. The old 3.8L V-6 and the new 3.8L V-6, referred as the 3800, have absolutely nothing, zilch, nada, in common. 2 completely different engines.

Yup. Jet cars are fast and loud and hella fun to watch. However, fast is relative as a top fuel dragster would run away from one in the 1/4-mile like it was tied to a tree. OK, a really big tree It is definitely worth seeing and for anyone in central FL, they will be at OSW next Sat, 11/18 along with really fast cars and pro bikes, another treat to watch. Not sure about the bigger front tire. My guess is that the load rating of the typical front drag tire is too low for the frontal weight with that heavy jet engine.

Point of clarifcation: The GN/Turbo Regal uses a Buick 3.8L V-6 and the Sy/Ty uses a Chevy 4.3L V-6. Only similarity is that they are both 90* V-6s. As naviathan said, pretty tough finding one of those engines. The Buick engine, while not littering junkyards like V-8s, is much easier to find if you look in the right places and do not procrastinate when one comes up for sale. Of course you could always build your own but that usually ends up costing a lot more than finding a pull-out.

AWESOME CARS!!! We look forward to seeing you next March.

AWESOME! :cheers Gave up on the 4L80E?

Looking for some expert advice here. Couple of us have bought the AEM UEGO which has a 0-5V output that we want to connect to the TEC2. For the AEM, 0V=10:1 and 5V=20:1, however, the TEC is expecting 0V=20:1 and 5V=10:1. Is there some sort of 5V inverter we can use? Any other solution? The AEM output cannot be changed. TIA

Not sure why you think this is relevant or that Audi cares. It is a mid-engine car and if I know Audi, close to the minimum class weight. Car is a winner right out of the box. I appreciate the technology, but as a race fan, if this is the future of road racing, I dont like it. "Sounds" like a soap box derby car on steroids :D Thank goodness the Judd is becoming more popular, there is hope of a 4-rotor, Zytek will be back and Porsche will have customer cars soon. I like to have my eardrums bleed when I am at the track. Coming out of turn 6 at Road Atlanta and climbing towards the overpass is one of the greatest spots to hear how loud and powerful these race cars are and even there, the R10 was inaudible :D

Make sure you fully understand what all the "turbo stuff" is. You are probably looking at another $2400 if you are going to do 400hp right.

You should SEE it in action on the track. Emphasis on see as you cannot hear it.

HUH? Well, lets see. I have my gas tank out and I am redoing the front brakes. I see the gas tank, heat shields, grinder, drill, floor jack, impact/hose, duct tape, tool boxes, rubber gloves, towel, WD-40, brake clean, brake parts under each axle, engine hoist.... All the things I would hope one would see with work in progress .

Just saw the 8yrs??? already thread and wondered how many guys here have a wife and/or GF that not only understands the addiction but fully supports it. Look what the wife gave me for my B'day.

....like minds. Got mine apart at the moment but you get the idea. More work but definitely worth it.

Does your car have the 15" aluminum spare wheel? If so, please let me know.

Hope I am not misreading what you are saying but here is how I interpret what you wrote. You are running 12V through a brake light switch, then to the LU solenoid and then to the pressure switch. If that is correct then you will blow a fuse every time you go into 4th because you are grounding the 12V source. As for your question, I guess I did not answer it directly. The ECM does not lock the converter exactly as the trans shifts into 4th because it uses more than just the 4th gear signal to determine when to LU. As a result, there are circumstances when you can unlock the converter and still stay in 4th when cruising. With your setup the LU will engage/disengage with 4th gear.

Thanks for pointing out what should have been obvious. Hard to believe that someone would pull out the 600hp racing rotary to put in a LS1. Car too fast with the rotary? :D

Blew a fuse, uh? How do you have it wired? assume you are not using the ECM. The pressure switch is putting out a ground signal and the LU solenoid needs 12V. Only way I see that working is through a relay by running and splitting the 12V to the 30 and 86 relay terminals, running the 87 relay terminal to the LU solenoid and the ground from the pressure switch to the 85, using it as a trigger. What you are missing is the capability to unlock the converter but stay in 4th for a mild "downshift" when cruising rather that a downshift that is more than a normal 4-3. You also might end up lugging the engine if the 3-4 is done at a low RPM.