Scottie-GNZ

Yup, thats the plan.

No comments about my tape job

I would not be too concerned about the inj DC. Remember, if the mixture is fat, pull fuel and if it is lean, add meth. Do not add fuel.

Congrats!!! That's the spirit and looking forward to meeting you and seeing that car.

Do not know any of the IMSA Lites teams/cars but like the concept and the fact that it is not another spec series. If you can get any shots of the Audi and Porsche LMP2 engines, that would be great.

You are pretty much limited the Nitto 555R 245/50-16. There is a rule of thumb that says the wheel width should not be less than 70% of the tire's section width. That means the absolute minimum wheel width would have to be 6.75" making your 7" wheel just barely above the minimum. I use the same tires as my rear street tires and have them mounted on Z32 NA 7.5" wheels and do not even worry about them. So, if that is the wheel you are stuck with then be aware that you might have premature wear in the center of the tire if this is a daily driver. If these are track only with occassional street then I say use them as that is better than even a 295 street tire. 17" drag radials? Been there, done that and a waste of money IMO.

How about a pic or 2 of the IMSA Lites cars? Lt me know if you will be with the #44 team and I will mosey on by the pits.

Glad you caught it early. Good luck. Really looking forward to seeing the car at its full potential.

UPDATE!! I had the sides of the scoop cut just like the Nissan scoop and temporarily blocked the rear exit and the problem of the temp rising on the highway is now solved. Thanks to everyone who contributed to this discussion.

The McLaren F1 is arguably the most amazing automobile ever built, but 1000hp? Not even close.

If both are crossflow, not so sure if this is much of an issue especially if it is the inlet side of the I/C that mates to the radiator tank. Under boost, the temp in the I/C inlet tank will probably be higher than the radiator inlet unless you are running extremely low boost and very high coolant temps With the narrow width of the Z framerail, could you have cores big enough for either of them to be effective.

Ok, so with the low pressure under the hood, the high pressure from the base of the windshield is preventing the hot air from escaping at speed. When the car is idling, you can feel the rush of hot air escaping, which I why I put the scoop in that configuration. If the scoop was blocked off and had the slots on the side, my conclusion is that it should give the same effect at idle and low speed without the high speed effect. Now for my final question. The car originally came with an engine belly pan and my assumption is that it helped create low pressure in the engine compartment. If I block the scoop and put the slots on the side (like the Z option hood in the pic), will the belly pan help or worsen the problem?

Sorry, no Z here. I now drive a 2nd-gen RX7 (red with black hood). Sorry I did not make that clear. For info on the SEZ check the "Motorsports / Events" forum below and the SEZ website @ http://www.topbb.com/forum/index.php?mforum=sezshootout&sid=ee2fe33b627ce6cd6c2c715293507314

You fix that problem by making sure you get a wife who also loves cars. I see you are local. You planning to join us for the trek up to the SEZ? Come on out to SpeedWorld tomorrow night and meet some of the other locals.

Nice Going , MIke. The best of ALL worlds.

Best horror movie I have seen in years. Just goes to show that movies like this and the "Saw" series do not need all that in-your-face special effects to have you on the edge of your seat. Highly recommended if you like horror films.

C'mon "Pops" . Vero Beach is less than 100 miles from me. Come on up Friday evening and hang out here and leave with us Saturday morning. Your swap would be a nice attraction at the meet.

Mike, IMHO, the best route to go is the converter. However, the 4200 stall is on the edge of not being driveable on trips like to SEZ. With the boost coming on at 5000+, the new stall would have to be at least 5500. You could probably still drive it around town but there is no way you want to make a trip like the SEZ with that. The problem right now is flow and velocity with the engine not under load and I dont think there is a single thing that caused it but all the changes have compounded it. How do you fix it? Is it possible the actual compression with that combo is in the 7s? Tough to fix because how would you know and how do you fix it? Not much you can do with the head so you are stuck with it. The cam could also be a culprit, not so much the lift/duration but the lobe seperation angle. Regardless, I would go back to the 272s as I think that will bring the torque peak down a couple of 100 RPMs. Then there is the turbo/plumbing and intake. As you saw, the boost went from coming on at 150' to 300' when you made those changes. That Q-trim size wheel and .81 housing is another culprit. I would look into the next smaller a/r housing if there is one. Plenty of Turbo Buicks running mid-9s with P-trim/.63 T-72s in 3700# cars. So you lose 30-40hp and 4mph on the top end. 40hp from too much is a nit. You more than make that up in your 60' and dropping 60lbs with wheels/tires. I know you are tired of hearing me preach that :D The easy fix for spoolup is to throw a small shot on it but I am not a fan of that. With the combo you have, the RPMs are going to come up in a blur and it is going to hit hard. Not only will you now break loose off the line, you are going to start breaking parts, IMO. You know what it feels like when it hits at 300' and you already have the car rolling to minimize wheelspin. Now imagine that at rest! If it was me, I would go back to the 272 cams and the smaller housing and see what that does for the torque curve and where it starts bringing on the boost. Only then would I have the converter redone. Probably cannot get that all done for SEZ, so the quickest and most effective gain would be the housing. I have been on your case about tires and I have to admit I am now wincing and saying a couple of Hail Marys every time I see the car wiggling at half track and on the big end. Like Doc said, there comes a point in time when a street car crosses the line and one that has 8-sec potential is definitely one. Like I told you a long time ago, HP is not your problem, its getting the car to hook and leave. Go back and start focusing on that. Your mentor, counseler and friend Remember, the most HP does not always win drag races.

Oh boy, another alcoholic on the forum

Good feedback. Thanks, all. I am stuck with this hood for now as it is aluminum and I also cannot remove the scoop because it has a big hole in it.

Here is the story. I am using a Capri hood scoop turned backwards so the original opening in the front now faces the windshield. Around town I have no cooling issues despite a 4" thick FMIC, B&M Supercooler and OEM RX7 oil cooler all in front of the radiator (AFCO 24x19 w/Taurus fan). However, as soon as I get on the highway for a little distance, the temperature creeps up to 205+. Once I get off the highway, even if I end up stuck in traffic, the temp will start coming down. My conclusion is that pressure from the base of the windshield is being forced into the scoop at speed and actually prevents hot air from escaping. If I had those openings on the side of the hood, they might help the hot air escape even at speed. I wonder how that scoop would look with round holes running down the side of it? While 205* does not concern me much, on a long trip like to the SEZ, that means my Taurus fan will not turn off for the whole trip. Recently I had the fuse get so hot that it melted the plastic fuse holder and the fan quit working and badly overheated the engine. Do not want that to happen again.

Gabe, sounds like Pop N Wood got a woodie looking at your butt :D

World Challenge and Speed Touring are on the PLM agenda this year. They were not last year and the supporting races were Star Mazda, Formula BMW, Panoz spec and VW Bug spec. YIKES! After JJ Lehto took out the Zytek in turn 1 of the 1st lap! and the Dysons started having their typical unreliable race, it was not long before I lost interest and left early. I wish they would bring TransAm back to PLM but the World Challenge C6s and Vipers make up for that I guess. Anyone the Atlanta area should plan on attending the Petit LeMans race. You have lived until that Judd and the Mazda triple-rotor makes your ears bleed.

This is a continuation of the cooling discussion in the Gabe's thread "Pics from a small car meet". Quicker240 said "I thought the air at the base of the windshield in a moving car was LOW pressure(I.E. would SUCK air out of the engine compartment) ,and was easier for an intake to get at.Now I'm confused again dang it! Your diagnosis seems backwards to me." I thought the same thing as you which is why I positioned the scoop that way (I certainly do not need ram air ). However, someone pointed out to me that the idea of the mucle car cowl hood back in the 70s was so the pressure at the base of the windshield force air into the cowl induction. The top of my radiator angles back towards the front so the air from the fan is being directed towards the back of the hood and that is why I did what I did. If that person's theory is right, that explains what we believe is happening to me. I could probably prove it by blocking off the hole in the scoop but my thinking is that holes on the side would relive all pressure from under the hood even if it came in from the back. Any experts out have an opinion?