Scottie-GNZ

Email me with your address and I will send you what I have. Seems I have exceeded the limit on pics I can post on the forum. Anyone know how I can see all I have and clean them up? Yes, the Jag IRS will add extra weight but in the right location and probably will cost you what, 10hp, over another beefier IRS? Those of you that have had to pull out and handle a Z IRS especially with the R200 know what I mean. I had to ship one With 400+hp its probably a nit. It is not my car but belongs to someone on the Turbo buick board. Have not communicated with him in quite a while but sure I could track him down. Yes, that's a T56 behind a Turbo'd Buick.

I did not hear that but unless I misundertand what he was trying to say, there is nothing wrong with that statement.

May be a little extreme but if you plan on turning up the wick on that "fully built" KA24, you want something that can hold up. Because of the Jag design, it is fairly easy to modify for the narrow Spit. This is a GT6 and should give you a great idea of what it would look like. I have more pics if want them.

Wash and a wax. This car is so reliable it is "boring" and I plan to leave it that way. The minute I start to tweak it, it will have problems. But, damn, thats a small turbo and restrive DP

Cool. Would love to see someone film an SEZ and consolidate the highlights into a 10-15min video like that.

Is the databse only supposed to contain "current" cars? Noticed a few have been removed.

The Saab just rolled over 222,222 on the odometer. Took a while but I finally got this thing broken in.

Dont know of anyone who has done it but it has been discussed couple of times on the Turbo Buick boards. Go to http://www.turbobuicks.com and check out the hyrid forum. That forum is dedicated to GN-powered swaps. Do a search first to see what has been discussed then make a new post or bring back a previous post on the topic.

Is the Z32/SBC project dead? Anyone else make a kit or any already swapped willing to duplicate the mounts?

Damn! That Corvette Independent Rear sure would have made my C4 IRS conversion a lot easier

Let me throw my in and it will have nothing to do with how to make the most HP out of the L28et. Let me start off by saying in drag racing the most HP is not always the fastest (actually you should be saying quickest) car. You say you want to build a pretty mean drag car and I say there seems to be too much focus on maximum HP and not enough on the transmission and suspension. If you are looking at a seriously quick, big HP turbo drag car then you need to be looking at an auto tranny conversion. An auto tranny with a dialed-in converter could probably be worth as much as 75hp over a manual setup. So I do not get misinterpreted, let me state that another way. Given 2 turboZs with equal high HP engines, the manual car COULD need as much as 75 more HP to run the same ET and I do not care how much MPH the manual can get. MPH does not win drag races. 240Z Turbo went from low-11s to 10.6 with a switch to a Glide! It takes a lot of HP to go from low-11s to 10.6. The other thing is the 60' and having tons of HP does not guarantee quick 60' times if the car does not have the right suspension setup and tires. My GNZ HP factored out to a measly 520rwhp but it was unmatched out of hole which is what makes for quick ETs. With the kind of HP you are talking about, you should be shooting for a 60' in the 1.40 - 1.42 range. HP alone will not get it for you. I know some folks here thought I went overboard with the C4 IRS but the results spoke for themselves. I would say for the L28et, follow the combo that TimZ or JeffP has done if you have a fat wallet. But you are going to need a fat wallet to make that kind of HP from the L28et anyway. While both of those setups have generated big numbers, neither has run serious 1/4-miles so no gurantee those combos are conducive to quick ETs. Stay away from turbos that make big HP on the dyno but needs 330' to get fully spooled up. You want to be at FULL BOOST at the 60' mark and you want to do it consistently. AFAIK, 240Z Turbo's 10.6 is one of the quickest ETs for an L28et.

While I do not want to sound negative, skeptical or paranoid, unless someone was selling a BMW V12, ECU and 4-spd auto for $900 because it is "hot" or to get their next fix, I would be skeptical. I do not know much about the BMW fuel system either, but do think a bad fuel pump can cause one bank not to work unless each bank has an indepenent fuel pump. Make certain the "WOW" is not "WOW, it is gonna cost how much to make it work?"

IMHO, unless you are looking to make well over 400hp, your money is better spent on other things like a top-notch turbo, DP/exhaust, I/C, engine management, ported heads, alky injection system, drag radials. You can go a long way with the stock exhaust manifolds if the rest of the components are up to snuff.

The 1st one looks like Ron Jone's old car with new paint.

Yup, that's the difference between running a manual and an automatic behind a big HP turbo engine. The WRX is automatic and AWD. They do allow AWD in the Sport RWD class but not sure if there is a weight penalty. There is for running the automatic but it hardly hurts the performance.

I am willing to bet he had to pedal the car in 1st gear. Only explanantion for losing with such a big advantage in RT and having more MPH. Would love to see him put the automatic in that car.

http://www.nhrasportcompact.com/

Stony, Mark is competing the entire NHRA Sport Compact series and this race is at ATCO Raceway in NJ. Hopefully the team will have vids or maybe ESPN or someone will show it sometime in the future.

The 240SX qualified #2 at ATCO this weekend with a 9.289 @ 154.19!! and the WRX qualified #1 with a 9.14 @ 146. The SR20 car obviously has the power but he has to pedal the car on the launch the manual tranny. The WRX is running an automatic.

OK, so I cannot type!

Please contact me by email or PM.

Congrats on what you have accomplished so far. I can understand being cautious with the boost at this stage and yes, those turbos will limit ultimate HP but I do not understand the statement about the turbos limiting the RPMs to 5300. With that engine combo there is no reason why you should not push the RPMs safely to 6000 or 5800 if you want to be real conservative. You will probably still need the 3.08s but that depends on your HP goals, race tires and the efficiency of the converter.

Never get tired of watching that BUT that is F1 and you do not play rock music over the sound of F1 engines, no matter old and crappy the video is.