Scottie-GNZ

The problem has nothing to do with gearing so put that out of your mind. Post the Elky and Z timeslips side-by-side so we can see the comparison and try to help.

Damn! Did anyone download a pic of that car? The item has been removed, probably because the seller could not deal with deluge of inquiries and responses :D

Agree with Ivan. First, wean yourself off the Greedy and HK$ kick. For your HP goal you do not need a $1000 turbo, expensive Greedy I/C, BOV and boost controller. Invest your money in a set of injs and engine management system. Thanks to eBay, the cost of I/Cs have come way down, a T3/T04 is all you need, if you go with the SDS, a 1G DSM vented to the atmo is all you need and scrap the expensive boost contollers and make the rod adjustable in conjunction with a decent bleeder system. I just gave you the formula I used to make 300hp except I used the stock turbo. There are enough people here doing exactly that so no lack of help.

Uh-Oh, let the WOOFING and SMACK begin!

I would not drive such a long trip with just a DP. Check the hatch seals and the holes where the fuel tank vent hoses go through the floor. The exhaust noise, fumes, fogged up windshield, no wipers, etc, gets old after an hour or two on long trips. OTOH, you are young and probably more tolerant of that crap. Good luck and hope to see you there but arriving safely.

My $.02 and take it for it is worth considering inflation these days. I have several dream cars I want but I would never get any of them that was a far gone fixer-upper. Let's face it, there is a reason why an Esprit is being sold for $1000. I think you need to be honest with yourself and accept the fact that a $1000 Esprit is probably going to take high mid-high 4-figures and 4-yrs to become your dream car and in the meantime you have nothing but a money pit. Those cars have enough problems when they are in primo condition and Esprits in pick-n-pulls are far and few between. OTOH, it is your dream and only you what you are willing to sacrifice to get it.

http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=100693

Did not mean to infer it was not worth the price and that is why I said "for a street engine". Like the 911 engine with titanium parts and dry-sump, total overkill for a street engine. As for the cast pistons, I will avoid that debate again. FYI, my buddy's engine, like mine, have SpeedPro hypers. My old shortblock had the same pistons and went 5+yrs and 500 passes before blowing a head gasket at the last SEZ. Technology and materials have come a long way but it seems like the old "cast" stigma will never go away. I agree with most that a LS1 with some mods is a more cost-effective solution. OTOH, maybe I am just a skin-flint 280zwitha383, I do not want to hijack this post with Buick talk. If you are interested in Buick turbo engines, hang out at http://www.turbobuicks.com. GN engines are always available you just need to watching for them and have cash in hand. OTOH, my new shortblock like my buddies are 4.1L from the old GM mid-80s big sedans. Same physical block and they have the same crank as the turbo engine. Stock rods, ARP head studs and rod bolts, cam upgrade and a girdle to hold it together + ported heads and intake. My s-block will cost me about $2400, including all the machine work and parts.

HOLY SH*T!! You could easily have $15K in it by the time you turn the key! You have to be a real V8 fanatic to spend that kind of money for a street engine. I know most folks don't want to hear it but just got back from dynoing my buddy's GN-powered FD RX7. the engine is configured similar to what I am building. 540.5RWHP and 623lb/ft torque. Ironically the RX7 diff still has the original 4.10s and the converter was not locked. Figure the converter slip probably cost 25-30hp so it is probably right at 700hp at the crank. Car will be at SEZ. Props to 240Z Turbo for building that awesome FMIC for this car.

......and some head work. Suppose we ought to tone down the GN discussion on a Z forum

Sorry to hear about the TT V8 Z project but a GN is not a bad replacement. be sure to come hang out at http://www.turbobuicks.com If it hooks. That is the key! Mine hooked and probably better than most will allowing me to go 10.08 @ 134.44 with an estimated 520rwhp calculated from the ET/MPH/weight (2750# w/driver). Will probably take about 535rwhp to go 9.95 with the same weight and if it does not hook, probably another 20hp.

Just goes to show I was giving mine away Nonetheless, glad to see something now widely available for the turboZ

How about a little road trip down I-75 to the SEZ on 9/11? Would like to check out a LS1/Z swap in person.

In the 1/4-mile? That is what it should run at the 1/8-mile or even faster. Post a side-by-side comparison of the 12-sec pass in the Monza and the 15-sec pass in the Z.

....and looks very heavy. This is not a light car. Do your homework carefully before making this investment. The rear track of an 04 GTO is listed at 62+". The 84 C4 Vette is listed at 60.4!! The more important measurement is from the outside edges of the tires and the Vette measured 70" and that with 275 tires on 9" wheels with a very deep backspacing that shoved the wheels/tires inward. Take the same measurement on a stock Z and see what you get, then ponder what it will take to fit that GTO IRS.

Myron, good to see you are still around and still interested in Zs.

Larry, I echo the sentiments of everyone here. Stay busy and know we are here are for you.

Said another way,

Yes, there really are some cool Porsche drivers, WINK, WINK!

This is what I am using.

DO IT!! Actually, I have heard of folks right here in town pulling 400hp but it depends on how quick you want to go. 350rwhp in your car should put you in the 9.50 range. Like anything else, keep the detonation down and have the ability to fine tune the fueling and timing and you can go a long way.

Just curious. Why is RPM a factor and a factor that gives a bonus or penalizes a combination? Is an engine that makes 400hp at 6500 RPMs "better" than an engine that makes 400hp @ 5200?