80LS1T

Well my car has about 350ish RWHP/not sure on the TQ...I can roast my tires all day long in 1st and 2nd, 3rd there is a little tire spinning and 4th there is a short chirp....From 5mph I can do the same....from say 15-35mph if I dump the clutch in 2nd or 3rd at about 3500RPMS I can get the tires to spin pretty easy! No since when you are on a dyno you should be in your "direct drive" gear in the tranny 1:1 ratio (for me 4th gear) for you it would also be 4th but for the auto tranny guys it would be 3rd (for most guys). Guy

Well if that wont make you think twice about racing the next diesel that pulls up to you at a stop light nothing will! 11.42@118mph Wowwwwwwwww! I bet that RX7 never saw that one coming! LOL Guy

Well after some searching on our wonderful site I found out that most of you guys who had your headers coated said it costed right around $100. Also I read a few posts where it was mentioned that by cutting the header flange in between each seperate port it could help stop header leaks by letting each pipe move a little bit on its own? So what do you guys think? Is that a good idea? It seems logical to me...or am I just crazy? Guy

Yeah I tried to get in but it crashed twice on me! It was nice almost having a conversion! LOL Maybe next time! Guy

I just turned 21 this past July. I've had my ZX since I was 17 Guy

Hey you know what a good way to find out how much HP you are running....bring it down to Fox Valley Tech and put it on the dyno! I am pretty sure its up and running. I know we had some trouble with it last year but I "think" they got it all fixed up. I'm going to put my car on there this spring and see where Im at as far as HP/TQ.....for FREE!!!!!!! Ahhhh yes the benfits of being friends with all your former teachers! Chris you still have to come down some Wednesday night so we can meet each other. The drag car group doesnt meet for another 3 weeks so it will have to be after that but I deffinetly want to meet another Hybrider! Guy

Well due to the "gun deer" season starting this weekend I probably wont finish them till late next week. Unless I get my deer tommorow! If I could find a way to make these easy, I think I would make up a couple of sets and sell them. They would still be pretty pricey though....the Patriot headers that I cut up costed $130(uncoated version), pipes were $185, plus about $20 in welding supplies and I'm not sure how much ceramic coating is going to cost(anybody know where I can get that done and how much it's going to cost?) So lets say the coating costed $100...that would me they costed me $435....would anybody be interested in a set for say $550ish(Coated and ready to bolt on)? This would be the only set for a 280ZX SBC that would bolt in for the gear box type steering. Guy

Well things are going great! I have 2 of the pipes routed and tacked in place. I took the header out of the "jig" tonight to test fit it and it fits perfect! I was kind of concerned that the #3 port pipe might interfer with the steering gear box but I have about 1/4" of space till it touches! Now the last 2 pipes should be easy(knock on wood!) Here's a topview of the header so far... A front shot of the 2 pipes tacked in place... Another front shot of the 2 pipes tacked in place... As you can see I did change the pipe routing a little bit. Guy

HAAHHAHAHAA ROTFLMAO!!!!!!!! Typical Honda boy not knowing what hes up against! Guy

Well since I have the big gear box type steering I dont know if it will work but the stock LT1 manifold for the drivers side works on my car? Are you planning on rebuilding the engine? I think it should cool the stock 305. If not then you could always upgrade to a 2 speed Taurus fan later. I am using a Griffin 26"x19" aluminum radiator, 1 speed Taurus fan, and a electric water pump for my LT1 280ZX and it stays below 210* in traffic and 180*-190* at cruising speeds. I could actually get it to stay cooler because I have my fan set up with an adjustable temperature controlled relay but 210* is good for me! I used the MSA mounts in my car and I dont think it will be an issue for you even though you have the power rack. I could take a pic for to show you the clearance if you want? The only draw back is that if you want to take the oil pan off you have to lift the engine up a little bit to clear the bottom of the internals of the engine. I will warn you though, if you have any fabrication skills just make the motor mounts and tranny mount...they are waaaaaaaaaaay over priced if you ask me! I learned the hard way ! Hope that helps! Guy

This is what all those numbers mean for anyone who doesnt know... Ex. 205/50/14........205 would be the tire width in millimeters/ 50 would be your side wall height, which would be 50% of the tread width, so it would be 102.5mm/ and the 14 would be the rim size in inches So your tires would be 8.07" wide/ 4.035" of sidewall/ and 14" rims *The tires(205/70/14) you have now would be 8.07" wide/ 5.649" of sidewall/ and 14" rims *If you go to a 185/60/14 you will have a 7.28" wide tire / 4.368" sidewall/ still 14" rims obviously I think the 205/50/14's would be the best option for you. You would loose about 1.5" of sidewall and keep the width. This way you dont look like your riding around on pizza cutters! LOL Guy

Ideally, yes you want equal length pipes but in my situation anything is better than a stock manifold. My pipes will not be equal length because there just isnt enough room to do that(well there might be but since this is my first time making a set of headers, I dont want to make it too complicated for my self! ). Guy

Is there even a such thing as a LSD R180 4.38 Ratio? Guy

So do the 4.3L LT1's still look the same on the outside? Like do they still have the same intake? Guy

Well so far so good. All I have done so far is make my "jig" for the header and mounted the flange & collector. Since I know that the original LT1 exhaust manifold works all I basically did was bolt that to the pieces of wood, mark where the bolt holes were and then remove the manifold and bolt on the flange and collector. I did have to move the collector over a little bit for better plug clearance but so far I think things are going great! Here's my "jig" with the flange & collector mounted to it... Here's a pic of how the pipe routing will basically be... I am going to start cutting and fitting the pipes this week! Guy 8) P.S. Oh yeah and I just wanted to say that for anyone who has ever done this....."you rock!" This is going to take a lot of time, effort and creativness to get this done but I think I have all 3 of those! So I should be just fine!

Well I dont know how to tell if you dont have one of each side by side but http://www.datsun-280zx-lt1.com/R200.html on my website you can see a pic of both(pics arent that great but maybe its enough for you to tell the difference) Guy

I have driven a few of those V10 Ram trucks at work and if you ask me they arent all that great. The ones that I have driven are in the older style Rams and they are dueleys(sp?). They sure dont seem like they have a lot power. Im sure that it would be different if it didnt have to haul the 8500lbs+ body around! If I were going to buy a truck like that I would buy it will a Cummins Turbo Diesel, they seem like they have some get-up-and-go! I cant wait to see/drive one of the new SRT 10's......Ram 1500 with a Viper V10! Guy

I have also heard the same thing. From what I understand a factory 4 bolt main really isnt all that much better than a factory 2 bolt main when it comes to serious HP. Guy

Having done the LT1 swap in my 1980 280ZX I would say the LT1 was "made" for the 280ZX. Have a look at my site and you will see what I mean. There are very few clearance issues with the motor...no problem with the air cleaner since its not mounted on top of the engine, enough room for a CSI water pump/26x19 Griffin Radiator/and a Taurus electric fan! Yeah its a snug fit but its worth it! Guy

Hey Chris just bring it down to the fox valley tech some wednesday night and I'll tell you what kind of motor and tranny you have in there! I'll be the guy walking around in the "Dodge Country" uniform and steel toes! Guy

Since I dont know much about cams can someone explain the duration? Is that how long the valve is open of the 360* of the cam? I know I always hear about lift but most real car guys talk about duration and lift at .050" Also what is LSA and what does it mean? I've tried a search but all I keep coming up with is personal cam specs not really what the numbers mean in relation to power. So is the CC305 a "bigger cam" than the LT4 Hotcam? LT4 Hotcam Specs with 1.6 Ration Rocker Arms.... ----------------------Intake-----Exhaust----------------------------- Lobe Lift-------------0.328-------0.328__<--no clue what this is? Gross Valve Lift-----0.525------0.525 Lobe Centerline------109*-------115*__<--no clue what this is? Duration @.006"------272--------281___<--no clue what this is? Duration @.050"------219--------228___<--no clue what this is? Lobe Seperation-----------112________<--no clue what this is? Grumpy you out there?! Guy

Well as many of you know I have the LT4 HOTCAM KIT in my 93' LT1 280ZX. Since I havent had it at the track yet I dont know what it will run in the 1/4 mile. I am hoping for low 12's with the Hotcam but I really want to get into teh 11's with out NOS. Since I cant remeber what the max lift on the springs are for the LT4 HOTCAM KIT is.......could I change my cam to the 306CC cam(Comp Cams "306" LT1 Camshaft, 230 / 244, .510 / .540 112 LSA, Very aggressive street/strip cam. Good top-end power. ) with out having coil bind?Or what about this cam....Comp Cams "Extreme" LT1 Camshaft, 230 / 236, .510 / .520 112 LSA, Very aggressive street/strip cam. I am going to wait to see what this set up runs. I think I'll wait anyways but if I have the intake off for any reason this winter I will probably just put the cam in....."while I'm at it!" Guy

What is your budget? You could start with some 30# injectors and a 58MM Throttle body? Those should get you a few more ponies with some tuning! 350RWHP should be too hard out of an LT1. I think the 306 Cam is also the way to go. I have the LT4 Hot Cam but I dont think its going to be enough to satisfy me at the track. But I dont know yet since I havent run it down the 1/4. I am hoping for low 12's but I would really like to get into the 11's Or you could go the easy route and buy a NOS kit! A small shot like 100HP wouldnt/shouldnt hurt the engine! Guy