80LS1T

Yeah $4000 might seem like a lot now but if those are completely rust free and the interior is in good condition then it will be money well spent. Especially on a 240Z. Those interior pieces are very hard to come by so the cost of them is outragous! And like I said before rust is extremly expensive to fix! Trust me $4000 spent now could save you thousands in repairs and interior pieces. Um yeah you should always look for rust! No matter what the owner says there could always be hidden rust. Look at the rocker panels, floor boards,(try poking a screw driver through the floor to see how stiff it is) and frame rails(especially by the battery) Guy

Actually if you have your car appraised I think it does cover mods. My insurance company told me that anyways. So when my car is all "finished" I can have it appraised and it will be covered for that amount. Although I think my insurance will go up but I think its worth it considering all the time and money that I have put into it! Guy

Hey that looks like a familar site! This is my engine bay last winter before I painted it..... This was after many many hours of removing the rust from underneath the battery tray and scrubbing the hell out of all the greasy grimmy panels! Man am I glad thats over! Good luck with yours! Guy

Sorry for the double post Guy

Yeah I will be using the collector from the one in the picture. I dont think I have enough room for a full size collector. I know I dont on the passenger side. I am going to try to make them as close to the same size as possible so I dont want a full size collector on one side a a regular shorty header on the other side. I think I will go pick up that miter saw at Menards and a blade for it tommorow. I'll be sure to post pics of my progress too! Guy

Ok this is what I am talking about for cutting the piping..... Will this work? This is not the $60 one that I found at Menards obviously but its close. I just dont know if I can get metal cutting blades for it or not and if it will hold up to cutting metal instead of wood? Guy

I second what Tim said! For $6900 that is a hell of deal! I wish it was for sale a year ago right before I started my conversion, I could have saved a ton of $$$! Of course if you really want to build one yourself it can be done for under $5000 but your going to have spend your money wisely. No fancy rims till your conversion is done, no big stereo systems, or other non swap items. Most guys spend close to $10,000 on a nice swap but most of us go "over board" on everything (like me ...I have spend right around $15K and Im not done yet! ), not that there anything wrong with that but if your on a budget you have to do things a little different. First finding a "rust free" Z will be the hardest and probably the most expesive part of the swap. This is also the most important part because fixing rust is not fun, it costs way too much fix rust and in the end you will be kicking yourself for not finding a Z that is as close to rust free as possible. So be sure to look for rust on the rocker panels, floor boards, and frame rails. If you have any rust in those areas it is going to have to be fixed so be sure to think about how much thats going to cost to get fixed. Hope that helps! Guy

Well I wanted to go with 1 3/4" but I thought the 1 5/8" would be easier to work with since its a little bit smaller. What works good for cutting the pipe nice and straight? I have an hand held angle grinder but I dont think I can do nice straight cuts with it. I was thinking of a small radial arm saw of some kind with metal cutting blade? I saw once at Menardes for like $60. The arm would rotate in 5* increments and lock. It looks like it would work but can I get a metal cutting blade for one of those? Guy

Well I finally received my box of mandrel bends from summit! They have been on back order for 2 weeks. I got a box of them instead of buying them all seperate.......10-180* bends / 4-120* bends / 4-90* bends for $185 which comes out to $10.28 per bend instead of the $13-$16 per bend if you buy them seperate. I am pretty sure this will be more than enough to build my headers since I dont think I will have to modify the passender side header, just modify the exhaust a little bit. I am also using Patriot D-Port shorty headers for my flanges. I just have to cut out the middle and use the collectors and the flanges! I hope that works since I dont have room for full size collectors. I know this is going to take a lot of time but I know this is the way to do it! I dont want to have to explain why I only have one header any more. I just want to open the hood and show off the LT1 Guy

What do you sand a crank with? I dont think they make sandpaper that is fine enough to make the surface ready for a bearing.......do they? This is deffinently a first for me! I cant beleive it even runs half way decent. I still have to laugh about it though! Guy

Matt I take it you've read the recent "Owned" post! LOL There is no way I would want that to happen to me! Guy

"Ah I see!" said the blindman Guy

So let me get this straight.....your first post on a new forum is to tell someone that their post was "tacky"? Guy

Now that's "OWNED!" I'm still reading the posts.........only 40 pages to go! Guy P.S.

So Tim, I think your the first Z with "Euro Tail Lights" aka clear tail lights! Keep the pics coming! Guy

Well I have an OBD1 style LT1. Mine is a 93'. If you go with an LT1 the best years are 94-95' because they are OBD1 and you can tune them yourself with TunerCat software or LT1Edit software. The 93' still uses the chips where are you can "re-burn" the chips in the computer on teh 94-97' the 96-97' are OBD2 and the software actually costs more from what I understand(I havent really looked into it because mine is not programable) I will be updating some time to the 94-95' computer. As far as computer mods...if you get the software there are lots of things you can do to tune your engine and if you go with the 4L60E tranny(newer 700R4 electronically controlled tranny) you can program shift points and other things for the tranny. For wiring harness, I know Tim wired up his harness from the factory harness. I went the easy/more expensive way and bought a "painless" harness(plug and play basically). I know that there have been a lot of posts on the wiring for the harness so if your going that route then do a search for "LT1 harness wiring" or something like that and you should find what you are looking for. Hope that helps! Guy

Well like Tim said all you have to do is get O2 simulators. The rear O2 sensors dont have any effect on engine performance. They are only there to turn on the check engine light if one of the cats is not functioning properly. So just get the O2 sims and run with out cats! The O2 sims will tell the computer that the cat. converters(the ones you dont have) are functioning properly and that everything is all good. (I thought I would explain what the O2's at the rear are for and what the O2 sims do, just incase anyone was wondering! ) Guy

What that's it? This is what we have been waiting to see for 2 years?.........J/K!!!!!!! Looks sweeeeeeeeeeeeeeeettttttt! You da man! What kind of paint is that? House of Kolor? God seeing yet another freshly painted Z really makes me want to paint mine! I better get it painted this spring or Im going to go nuts! LOL Guy

I have had nothing but good service from them. I have ordered a lot of parts for the stock parts that are on my car and if they said they had it then it was shipped out right away, if it was on back order they told me and it was shipped out as soon as they got in it stock. MSA = (2 thumbs up!) Guy

Man-o-man, my parents just found out that I have over $10,000 into my car and they just about blew a gasket! LOL Its ok though since they dont have to support me(Im 21 and have a real job). I just told them that I have over $10K in the car but I negleted to tell them that I really have about $15,000 in the car. I dont think its too bad considering what the performance will be once I finally "finish" it(no hybridz is ever done in my book! There are always more mods to be done! ) I think once I get it painted this winter/spring and the new rims on they will have a different opinion.....aka "ummm Guy".... "can I drive it to work today?" 8) It doesnt bother me that I have spent that much? Why should anyone else care? Its not their money! Guy

Yeah I see them every day! ....(I work for Dodge/Chrystler) They are really nice but for some reason they still put about 25 fuses in the car/van? I dont know why they dont just put them all under the hood? Hey ZmeFly, why do you have a pic of a Z as your Sig and not one of your ZX? I was looking at your webpage and I noticed that you are running 8.5" wheels? Are those under stock fenders? If so how are you running them with out hitting the fender lip? I was under the impression that 7.5" was as wide as you could go under stock fenders on a ZX? Guy

You can rent a Viper!? How old do you have to be? Like 50 with a perfect driving record? Guy

How can you guess at what your flow numbers "should" be? Guy

You've got $25,000USD in your car and it isnt even drivable? What kind of numbers are you expecting from the Turbo engine?

Well here's mine. I dont have any skins on them yet but I hope to by spring!(I better or I'm going to kick my own A$$! ) Konig Monsoon 17x7's.... Guy