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80LS1T

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Everything posted by 80LS1T

  1. Yup just like any other swap with a Z/ZX, you have to be creative and have some fabrication skills. You have to be able to think "outside the box"! If you do go threw with the swap you will learn more about your car and the drivetrain that you are swaping in, than you ever wanted to know! LOL Guy
  2. I really doubt it will work. Heck I cant even use a 94/95 computer on my 93 LT1 !!! You want the easy programming like I do too dont you! Well I think your out of luck. Guy
  3. You can use a regular SBC header on a LT1 but they will most likely not be a D-Port design unless it says they are for an LT1. On Generation 3 stuff I think it will matter though(LS1/LS6 stuff) I am selling a set of block hugger headers that I cant use on my LT1 because of the location of the steering gear box in my 280ZX! Check out the for sale forum if you are interested!(sorry I had to put a plug in there for myself! ) Guy
  4. Holy Cow!!!! That is Saaaaweeeeeettttttttttt!!!!!!!! Guy
  5. Quiz question.......Where is the STARTER on the Northstar??? Hmm...................................
  6. I thought most guys with SBC in their Z's didnt run rear sway bars? I know in the JTR manual it says not to because it could cause you to spin out too easily? or something.....??? I would just take it out. Im not going to run a rear sway bar until I go with an LSD or Quafie rear end. Guy
  7. Yeah I used the MSA motor mount and tranny mount kit. I didnt use the tranny mount though. I had to fabricate that myself. The motor mounts basically just take the GM 3 bolt pattern and adapt it to the Datsun 2 bolt pattern and use the proper amount of spacing between the engine and the towers. I have some pics on my site of the motor mounts and how they are attached to my SBC. http://www.datsun-280zx-lt1.com/SpecialPartsandMounts.html http://www.datsun-280zx-lt1.com/LT1andT56.html Hope this helps! Guy[/url]
  8. I forgot to hook up a positive ignition voltage to the field wire. Guy
  9. I vote for the LT5! That would be a sweet swap. It seems that the LT5 comes up every 3 months and someone wants to do it but no one wants to pony up the $$$! It would be unique thats for sure! And they made over 400 HP(pretty sure they did anyways) Guy
  10. I mounted mine on the firewall. I had to bend/mold the pedal mount assembly from the Z28 that I got all my parts from to conform to the firewall. I also had to shorten the pedal because at full length was way too long. I shortend it about 2". But it turned out pretty nice! Guy
  11. "Ah I see" said the blind man! I was just looking at the wiring diagram and now I see what I missed! Now I know why my battery kept going dead after 15 minutes of running! Thanks Greimann! Guy
  12. Yeah I will have to come down sometime later this summer when my car is finished up! I would love to meet up with another Wisconsin Hybrider! I will let you know when I can make it down there so we can meet up. There is another Hybrider up here near me but I havent gone to meet him yet, I will try to see if he wants to come too! Guy
  13. Yeah I bought a S&S harness but I bought it used from Darius(another member on this board. I paid $400 for the harness and the computer from him. I think you should do what Tim said and just modify the existing harness. Awhile back we had a post going on which wires are needed and which ones arent. Do a search for "LT1 wiring harness" You should be able to find it. As for me blowing my header gasket...I would do what I am doing and buy a good copper gasket, no matter what kind of headers you use. It's not worth the hassel of changing a header gasket just to save $20 on a set of cheapo gaskets. Also buy some stage 8 locking header bolts this will alos prevent blowing a header gasket. Guy
  14. Hey where is the Great Lakes track? It sounds like you had a great time! I would have loved to see you run against the new 350Z! Also what are you running for an engine? Still an inliner or are you running a GN? Guy
  15. If you do go with an LT1 make sure it is the 95 version. It has the updated optispark(distributor) and it is OBD1(type of computer). Both of these make the 95' the most desirable. I wish I had done a little bit more research before I bought mine(93') 93' is the worst because it used a non-reprogrammable computer. It still used a chip unline teh 94+ computers, they use a reprogrammable(flash) computer. I have to go threw the trouble of sending my computer out and having someone else reprogram it for me! Oh well live and learn I guess. The 94' is still a good deal but I would update to the 95+ Optispark unit. You will know what I am talking about if you go this route because it is a common upgrade on the 93/94 LT1's. So if you can get a good deal on a 94' LT1/T56 combo then jump on it! But I would look for a 95' if possible. The 96'/97' LT1 is an OBD2 computer set up and it cost 2-3 times as much to have it programmed! That is the only real down side though. Guy
  16. Ok on my LT1 alternator all I have to have hooked up is the red thick wire, from the post on the back of it, then that goes to the battery...right? I dont have to have that other connect that plugs into the alternator hooked up right? Guy
  17. Yeah I know I really wanted to do a 2.5" into Y-Pipe into 3" but my exhaust guy convinced me that this was enough. I will have to see how it all works out. I hope it doesnt make any funny vibrations or anything cause that would kinda make me mad! LOL Guy
  18. Well I just sent my computer to Stteet & Performance today so I should get that back within the next 2 weeks. I still have some small electrical things to do but it is almost road worthy! 8) It wont be painted till the middle/end of July though. I have to save up some more money for the MSA body kit! And then some tires for my 17's. By then the engine should be broke in and then I can take it down to the track for some runs! Guy
  19. Yeah but from the factory it also goes into a Y-Pipe right away and then into a" 2.75" " The factory manifold connection is for a 2" pipe thats why I couldnt go any bigger than a 2.25" My exhaust guy said he could make the 2.25" work but 2.5" would not be able to fit on the stock manifold on the drivers side. It might be 3" from the Y-Pipe back but that is for an almost entire single pipe system. I think you are thinking of the LS1's those have atleast a 3" Y-Pipe into a single pipe system. Mine is duals for over 1/2 the system and then into the Y-Pipe and over the axle into the muffler and straight out. I think it's enough. I might redo the entire system when I have custom headers made. Guy
  20. Yeah 2.5" out the back, why? There is a muffler back there too though. Guy
  21. Ok first of all you cant just stick a piece of pipe in there to "unclog" it. The inside of a CAT looks like a honeycomb basically so if you stick any thing in there you will just tear up the inside of it. The cheap way to test if its clogged or not is to put a "test pipe" in there and see if it runs better. Just put a regular piece of pipe in there and see if it runs better. I dont think this is your problem though. Your car should still run if the CAT is clogged up, it just wont run very good. Guy
  22. First of all welcome aboard! 8) I "think" that it's possible but it is deffinetly NOT worth it. You can get a camaro 5 speed pretty cheap from the junk yard. 99 out of 100 guys will tell you its just not worth the extra effort to get a datsun tranny hooked up to a chevy V-8. It would most likely cost more to get an adapter plate made or bought than it would to just buy a camaro 5 speed. Guy
  23. Here's the pics of my exhaust system... I know its not a mandrel bend system but it's still a really nice job! When the car is on the ground you can't even see the exhaust when you look under it! It's really tucked up nice and tight. It is a 2.25" into a Y-Pipe into 2.5" piping. I was really impressed with the work that my exhaust guy did. It costed $400 for the parts and labor. Not to bad considering it took him the whole day to do it. So what do you guys think? Guy
  24. Actually higher octane in an engine that is supposed to have higher octane does make more power. I will agree with you when you say that putting higher octane in a car that only requires 87 wont do a damn thing! I think its funny when people tell me that they put "the good stuff" in an their car really hauls ass now! I am going to use the highest octane possible(93) in my car but thats because I have 10.9:1 compression! Guy
  25. Is that at the wheels? I would say if thats at the wheels then theres a good reason why you are such a happy camper! Heck even if thats at the flywheel you should be happy! You'll still have like 400HP/442 ft. lbs. (15% drivetrain loss) at the wheels! Yeah most of use do our own work but I dont think too many of use actually build the engines. I did but thats only because I had the facilities to do it. What kind of car are you putting it in? Guy
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