80LS1T

I was going to post the same thing but ya beat me too it! It looks like he's being a little less crazy with the stunts now. He said hes doing more parking lot stunts at low speeds than crazy stunts at 90mph! I wish they would have showed his Z running that R1! Guy

Wow I pretty much have a step by step process to get my beast into primer! Now what about attaching those body kit parts? I have the MSA 2 Aero kit(fiberglass). Do I get the whole car into primer then attach those parts? Also what about the few dings I do I have in the car. None of them are major. What should I use as a filler and how far should I take those spots down?(what does filler bond to good?) I will have my drivetrain back in very shortly and then I will begin this process! Guy

Oh and just how far do I want to take it down if Im not going to take it down to bare metal? Just to the primer coat? Guy

Ok well my brother who is a painter on the side said that I should take it down to bare metal due to the kind of paint that was used way "back in the day", something about how the new paint wont stick as well if its not taken down to bare metal and started over from square one? Does this mean anything to anyone? Well as for the filler, I would like to do it over because where it was painted over the paint didnt stick very good. The paint is very hazy and looks like orange peal. My brother said it is probably because a "plastic filler" was used? Yeah I really need a different compressor if I decied to do this because the little 10 gallon 3HP unit just aint going to cut it! I really want a new one anyway so that it will keep up with my regular air tools....impact wrench, drill, die grinder, air ratchet, etc! Guy

to get my car ready for body work. I have no clue on where to even start when it comes to body work. I dont know if I need to strip my car to bare metal or if I can just sand it down and paint over it? I know that my car has never been painted over the factory paint. I also know that there is a small amount of filler in the rear quarter panels(just found that out last summer). Basically Im sick of wainting for people who say they are going to help me paint my car but keep putting it off. So I would like to attemp to atleast get the car in primer and body kit attached. Then I will have someone do the actual painting because I am using a House of Kolor paint and I dont want to mess it up with lack of experiece. So whats a good way to start with this project? What kind of tools will I need? Thanks, Guy

Well now your going to hear about a hybrider's experience with the CF DF......holds great if you can stand the clutch chatter. I used it with my LT1/T56 combo, I was not impressed with it since it started to chatter like crazy after only 500 miles! I am now going to use a SPEC stage 3 with a Fidanza alluminum flywheel. I dont know how Im going to like the set up but I will be a lot happier if its quite! Guy

You mean a drive on lift? If so what do you want to use if for? They are not ideal for restoring a car. The lift will always be in the way and they are just POS's in my opinion(we have one at the dealership I work at for doing oil changes/quick lube lane) Thats all they are really good for in my opinion(and alignments I guess). Guy

Yeah all of the older Dodge trannys are pretty much crap. The minivans and trucks(full size) are the worst. The new minivan trannys are a little better but still not all that great. The truck trannys now are very good. And the new Cummins is very reliable too so far. I havent really seen a lot of problems with the old Cummins either though? Vaccum pumps like to leak on them ($2400 for a pump from Chrysler) after market is only like $400 though. And I have heard you can buy a seal for the pump onthe internet somewhere. Guy

Well I am finally going to be reinstalling my engine after removing it to redo the engine bay. As most of you know I made the choice to change the paint in my engine bay over to a bed liner because I was tired of chipping/scratchin/dinging the paint from having to wrench on my engine to get the bugs worked out. I just got my tranny back from having a hair line crack in it welded up. It was in the back of the middle section on the tranny. It was just enough to cause a very slow leak. It was more annoying than anything. So my tranny is all fixed up, sand blasted, primered and painted and ready to reinstall with the motor. Along with having the tranny fixed I also have a new clutch and flywheel set up going in. I had a ton of clutch chatter from my Center Force Dual Friction clutch set up. The flywheel was totally trashed with hotspots too(which Im sure is what was causing the clutch chatter). Now I have a SPEC Stage 3 clutch and a Fidanze alluminum flywheel going in. Im no too sure on if I will like the alluminum flywheel but only time will tell. I just dont want to hear my clutch chattering any more!!! Once the engine is back in I will have to finish wiring up the new 95' harness(I switched over from the 93' speed density system to the 94-95' MAF system/OBD1 system so that I can tune my own engine when I need to) I also just purchased an LM-1 wideband O2 with the RPM input set up. I will be using this and Tuner Cat software to fine tune my engine. I have a few odds and ends that will need to be done before it will be ready to run again like...send in my speedometer so that it actually keeps track of the mileage(as soon as the key is off it goes back down to 54 miles everytime), I also have to fix a small leak in the header that I fabricated for my drivers side the send it back in to be recoated(I have to grind on it and then weld so the coating will be trashed). I will also have to connect the new SS braied fuel lines to the fuel rail. This may seem like a lot of stuff to do but I like probably every guy here I know every nook and cranny of my car so putting this thing back in is like changing the oil in your car to an every day guy! LOL:icon52: Guy

Next time crawl under the truck and bang on the gas tank to try and get the fuel pump to work, atleast this might save you a tow bill. Yeah factory fuel pumps are pretty outragous. I dont remeber the last time I put a fuel pump in a customers car and the bill wasnt atleast $500. Most of the fuel pumps are around $400-$500!! Pretty crazy considering its a mass produced part! Same thing with factory rims...you would think that a stock rim would be cheap because they make thousands of them for thousands of the same vehicle, well think again....most factory rims are upwards of $500. Heck even steal rims made for hub caps are like $200! Yeah now thats F'n nuts! Guy

And surprisingly those connecters arent too expensive($12-$20 each), atleast when I bought them they werent! I thought for sure I was going to have to pay $40 per connector when I went to buy them. Guy

I sold my rims like that last summer for $100. I had them up on ebay and they sold for $150 but the guy who bid was a dead beat bidder so I never saw that money. I relisted them for $100 with no reserve and they sold for $100. The guy that bought them was putting them on a 510 if I recall correctly. They really arent worth much even in good condition unless you find a buyer who really wants them. Good luck selling them though! Guy

I bet he puts wheelie bars on for his next run! Guy

I'll take that as a complement! I want to add more to my site for some small things like shifter placement, throttle linkage set up, updated pics of my radiator mounts, and a few other odds and ends but the engine is actually out of the car right now so I cant really take pics of how I have stuff set up. I removed it so that I could redo my engine bay and get the rest of the car ready for body and paint. I am hope before summers up I can get it painted. Then I can finally get it on the road agian! Its just not as fun sitting up on jack stands! Guy

I went with a SBC/LT1 because I figured it would be the easiest to install. Not the cheapest though. Because of the low profile intake it made hood clearance a non-issue. I stil had to deal with that big *** gear box though. I made a custom header for that side and I am using a regular block hugger on the passenger side. I used the over priced MSA motor mount kit. If you have fabercation skill just make a set of motor mounts that bolt up to the original rubber mounts on the crossmember, thats all the MSA ones are! Guy

No offense but your welds dont really look like they are going to hold. I would have welded the ends together like you did but I would also have put a slightly larger pipe over the top of the connected pips and weld that to the pipes. I would be a very very cautious on the first ride in this thing. Sounds like a very cool project though! Keep the updates coming! Guy

I dont care for the front end either but the rest of the car is unbelievable! Talk about attention to detail. Getting that dash to fit must have been one hell of a PIA! But it looks like it really paid off! Guy

Hmmm thats a good question! Guy

You guys have got to go to this site and check it out. It has hundreds of people doing the dumbest things you can think of! If your having a bad day, this site will cheer you up! Broadband would be a good thing though, sorry dial-up guys. www.stupidvideos.com My personal favorites.... Cat Fan (listed under "animals") Bear Fight (listed under "animals") Blind Date (listed under "farts") DUI (its under the "top rated" ones) Guy

Is the bigger rotor really going to help if the pads are still only contacting the same amount of rotor surface as when they were on the original rotors? Would this help with brake fad by distributing the heat through the larger rotor? Guy

I gotta say I disagree with "the guys" on this one about swapping out that motor... just show and driver that car and keep beefing up your black Z. Keep one as a nice cruiser and race the other. I think that orange one is too nice to mess with any more major modifications. Guy

WOW that Evo is one hell of a fast car! That thing was kicking everythings a$$! The only thing that was even kinda sorta close was that Keny Bell Mustang. That cammed LS1 sure did sound nice but it got smoked by that Evo too! Guy

I dont know exactly which wire you are talking about but if its just the wire that is used to tell the voltmeter how much voltage the charging sytem is putting out then any 12V wire will do. You dont have to wire it right to the battery. Guy

Holy mother of god that is one ugly friggin car! Its got a "getto booty"! LOL Guy