Blown77Z

YES, please grind them FIRST, lol...

Take your strut assembly to a tire shop and have them remove your stub axle nut with an impact gun. It'll take them less than 5 mins to do it for you About grinding the peened area of the nut, I used a Dremel tool with a reinforced disk to grind the metal down close to the stub axle, the impact gun took care of the rest.

Here's one for you: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1999-02-LS1-Fuel-Injection-Wiring-Harness_W0QQitemZ190285650562QQcmdZViewItemQQptZMotors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories?hash=item190285650562&_trksid=p4506.c0.m245&_trkparms=72%3A1171%7C65%3A12%7C39%3A1%7C240%3A1318

I believe Aziza Z on this board did that swap. A know a few others did as well, but can't remember their names. Send him a PM

I agree with using the Pro Comp series Summit Racing part numbers. The Speedo is part number: ATM-5189 http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=ATM%2D5189&N=700+0&autoview=sku The Tach is part number: ATM-5160 http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=ATM%2D5160&N=700+0&autoview=sku

I will have a open diff R200 (not sure on gear ratio yet), R200 mustache bar and solid front mount for sale in a few weeks when I get my Q45 setup going. Hit me with a PM if you're interested...

Just get some heater hose..

Start out with the obvious and easiest first. Check your bulbs and go from there.

Here's my plans for the future... Trick Flow combo pack: http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=TFS%2DK306%2D500%2D460&autoview=sku New intake manifold from Weiand!!! http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=WND%2D5000&N=700+0&autoview=sku

I've done a lot of research and drooling for one of these for mine. Why don't you just buy one and let us know

You mean this one? http://www.cardomain.com/ride/685533 This car was got me hooked on dropping a V8 into a Z car...

I jumped the gun a little and assumed ALL Infinities came with the Q45 Thanks for clearing that up !

I understand. I just read a little bit on diffs and the internals, so I know what you mean now So, should I steer clear of this one? Or ask the seller some questions about it? EDIT: Here's the link to the auction for it. Notice what vehicle it came from... http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/NISSAN-DIFFERENTIAL-240SX-R200-VLSD-S13-INFINITY-J30_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trkparmsZ72Q3a1205Q7c66Q3a2Q7c65Q3a12Q7c39Q3a1Q7c240Q3a1318Q7c301Q3a1Q7c293Q3a1Q7c294Q3a50QQ_trksidZp3286Q2ec0Q2em14QQhashZitem230312396082QQitemZ230312396082QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories

I'm not to familar with the guts of diffs, are you saying the flanges should have the 6 bolt star shape instead?

I've been doing some research on swapping over a Q45 VLSD into my 77 280z. Here's a list of the components I've gathered with some questions I have to make sure I don't get the wrong parts. Here's the 95 Infinity Q45 diff that I want (3.90 gears ). Notice the bolt hole pattern on the flanges..will that bolt up to some 280zxt axles or will the axles be to long with that setup? Here's the mount kit for the Q45 from Modern Motorsports. http://www.modern-motorsports.com/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=74 I will need a longer driveshaft as well. Will go back with JCI on that one. ANY input on this setup is greatly appreciated !

The front of the assembly where the key goes or the rear where the electrical plug goes?

Oreilly Auto sells them for about $2.99, but you have to bend it yourself, no biggie.

My problems and solution are in Doc's thread as well. The turn signals get IGN power from the hazard switch when it's in the OFF position. Double check the 2 wires that run your turn signals. 1 wire will get IGN power and feeds that thru the hazard switch to the other wire and out to your turn flasher, then to your turn signal switch on the column. GL !

If you're going to use the car for drive by shootings then...........

SOLVED ! I traced the middle green wire from the hazard plug back to the black plug that sits over the transmission tunnel. Guess what I found...... NOTHING. There was no wire connector on the other side of the black plug to give it power. I added a connector to it and ran it to IGN power. VOILA, turn signal lights !!! Why there was no wire connector on the black plug is one of them 30 year old mysteries Now time to find out why I have no reverse lights........ Thanks Doc !

Doc, do you know where the middle wire (solid green wire on my 77) on the plug side of the hazard switch gets it switched/ignition power from? The fuse box? I tried to trace mine just now and I couldn't find where it goes to... This green wire is used to power the turn signals when the hazard switch is in the OFF position sending power thru the hazard switch then thru the turn signal flasher to the turn signal unit in the column. This wire on my setup gets NO power atm... There is 1 solid green wire in the fuse box, but the OHM test failed unless the wire is bad between the fuse box and hazard plug.... Thanks in advance

Another round of testing results in nothing. 1. All bulbs are good. 2. Hazard lights work. 3. Bypassed Hazard switch to give power to turn signal switch in column. 4. Both flasher units are good. 5. Column switch (middle green wire) has power in neutral position. 6. Column switch (middle green wire) loses power when selecting either turn signal.

So, what do you think my problem is since the middle wire on my turn signal switch loses power when I select either turn signals??? Could you test yours to see if your wire loses power???

After more testing the turn signal switch on the column LOSES power to the middle wire when I select either turn signal...... Even jumping power directly from the mddle wire to the turn signal wires gives me NOTHING... /irritated

I just tested the turn signal switch. It's got power running into the middle wire on the switch itself, but when I move the switch down or up for the turn signals, the middle wire LOSES power...... Even when I try to jump power across the plug onto the turn signal light prongs themselves does NOT work..... The flasher that I replaced and the new one is good, I tested them both by using them to power the hazards, so they are good. Doc, did you bypass the hazard switch mechanism by splicing the power wire to the wire that runs to the column switch?