djwarner

Two points as side notes to this thread: After overhauling my L24, I was still a little slow compared to the original Motor Trend article 0-60 times. Since, my car suffers from dual DGV Webers, I decided to contact RedLine for suggestions. Their first comment concerned E10 fuel and how it runs lean. If you think about it, there is extra oxygen in the fuel and fewer hydrogen and carbon atoms to burn. Thus when going through a carburetor, there are fewer energy producing bonds to burn. Re-jetting two steps richer made a significant performance improvement. I ended up reducing my 0-60 time by a full second. If you have re-jetted your carbs in the last 4-5 years, you are probably running lean. Impressed, I also converted the DGVs from a progressive linkage to synchronous. While this wouldn't help full throttle operation, the car is now a delight to drive around town. The second item is my son's 2014 GT-R. He has adapted his car to run on E85. It involved changing the injectors, fuel pump, and manifold. Software required re-mapping, but the data logging during test drive is like having your own dyno. Nice feature with the GT-R is that you can switch maps as you fill up with different fuels. Why run E85 instead of 93 octane? How does 600+ hp at the rear wheels sound? As you might expect with the extra oxygen in the fuel and extra power, mileage will suffer.

Learned more about the engine and got some pictures. If I were to keep the Series I intact, which S30 would make the best the best transplant recipient from a rust/price standpoint? BTW the LFX engine in the 2012 Camaro is a normally aspirated, variable valve timing, direct injected engine producing 323 HP. It only weighs 345lbs. Has an integral exhaust manifold in the heads and an integral cast oil pan. Transmission is an MYB-6L50 and weighs in at 187-198lbs. It might be interesting to double the horsepower for about the same weight and doubling the number of transmission gears.

Just over a year ago, my wife was seriously injured when she was rear-ended in her 2012 Camaro Convertible. She was hit by a box truck, lost control and the car drifted of the right side of the road and hit a road sign. Virtually every body panel was damaged, but the engine department was intact. We were reimbursed for the Camaro and it has sat in storage to preserve evidence ever since. It appears our case is heading to court but no new issues regarding the car have come up and the insurance company is asking to release the vehicle for salvage. The point is that the vehicle only had 23K miles on it at the time of the collision and was in perfect running order. The engine is a 3.6L V6 putting out 330HP mated to a 6 speed automatic transmission with rear wheel drive. We may have the option to buy out the insurance company or bid on it at the salvage auction. Would this be a good candidate for a 240Z transplant? Not only is the drivetrain good, it would also include the electronics and wiring harnesses. My 240Z Series I has a sound, rust free body and a freshly overhauled matching numbers engine and new VintageAir AC. Its only draw back is that it is also an automatic. My gut is telling me to keep the Z intact, but there are other later Z bodies around. What do you think?

I'm a little bit late to the dance, but your original post asked for technical resources. Pat Braden wrote a book on Weber Carburetors. On page 36, there is a chart for single cylinder capacity versus main venture diameter. This chart was supplied by Weber and is calibrated for racing engines. The chart is for independent runner manifold feeding a single cylinder. The chart has three curves based on maximum RPMs of 6,000, 8,000, and 10,000 rpm. For a 2.8 liter engine with 467cc per cylinder, the ventures work out to 36mm, 45mm, and 52mm respectively. For a 2.4 liter engine, the venture diameters work out to 33mm, 42mm, and 48mm respectively. These numbers seem pretty consistent with the advice given by others in this thread.

I wish I had read the first post more thoroughly before I retrieved a mirror from the local u-pull-it. I had assumed that you were salvaging the mirror and putting it in the old plastic frame. When I got home, I found the mirror 10mm wider and 4mm higher. Re-reading your first post, your were salvaging the Z mirror's ball to install in the Hyundai's mirror. Ugh. BTW the mirror for a 1980-81 Sentra is of similar size. The mounting arm is identical to the 240z on top but enters the top of the mirror instead of the backside. If you are only concerned with functionality, simply transfer the retaining springs from you old mirror to the Sentra's and snap it in place. The original design for Datsun was advertised as a safety feature. If your head hit the mirror in a crash, the mirror was designed to pop off. The marketing department hadn't foreseen seat and shoulder belts, but the design was retained even after their introduction.

Brent is still there working when and on what he chooses. Pretty much a catch as catch can.

Zdoc sent his engine overhauls to a NAPA shop at 11716 N Florida Ave, Tampa. The problem is that you would have to pull the engine and bring it to them. Or at least you could pull the head and bring it to them it you find it warped.

The local club is the SunCentral Z Club. Check out the club on Faceboook. ZDoc is still around but not that active anymore. Most SunCentral members with vintage Zs have taken to doing their own engine work.

Glad to hear you have your engine running, sounds like a beast. I've got 1600 miles on the cam you sent and it has not missed a beat.

If you are going to the vintage car show at The Villages today, look me up. I'll have a Gray Series I with blue interior. I recently overhauled my engine and have photos.

All fuel in the US is unleaded. Most of our heads have had the valve seats replaced with steel seats. If your head has be re-worked in the last ten to fifteen years, the seats have probably been replaced and you are good to go with unleaded fuel. It is worth a check through any maintenance records. They do sell a lead replacement additive for exotic engines here. But quite frankly it is expensive and a bother. The only gas sold here with any lead at all is a low lead 100 octane general aviation fuel. It is extremely expensive and only available at the local airport.

For questions like this, like YouTube, Ebay is your friend. Search for appliance wheels in ebayMotors to see lots of examples.

I just laid mine down without glue. Just make sure the carpet is attached front and back and you should have no problem.

Using adhesive to secure the insulator will cause regrets when it comes time to sell. The buyer will want to check for rust.

The oil and temperature gauge has an internal mechanical voltage regulator. the oil sensor and coolant temperature sensor have a variable resistor connected to ground through the engine. The wires connecting to the sensors complete a circuit through the meter movements. If both gauges are inoperative, the logical place to look is where the circuits share common components. There should be a +12 volt power lead going into the gauge with voltage present when the ignition switch is in the on position. If you have power there, you most likely have a failed voltage regulator inside the gauge and it should be replaced. The one caveat to the above is a quirky feature of the oil sensor. The sensor is also designed to be used on cars with idiot light. So at some pressure reading in the 6-10 psi range, the sensor opens the circuit rather than supplying resistance. This is why our oil pressure reading will go left of 0 when we come to a stop after a sustained high speed run. The hot oil is so thin pressure drops below the design limit of the sensor.

Here is an article on the topic: http://www.mcnews.com/mcn/technical/2012decethanol.pdf His comments about restoring the octane rating is a bit off though. Octane measures the resistance to explosive detonation and an octane rating of 113 for ethanol cannot be resolved by some simple algebraic equation.

I would suspect a vacuum leak in the master cylinder that was leaning out the idle mixture. Capping off the vacuum port enriches the mixture.

120-122 yen to the dollar was the norm during the '70s and '80s. A good part of the Japanese economic miracle of that period occurred because the Japanese Central Bank manipulated the exchange rate since after WWII. This kept Japanese exports cheaper than their foreign competitors and made imports more expensive. Japanese corporations made above market profits during this period and fostered inefficiencies. Back in the days of the gold standard, when a country prospered, it currency's exchange rate would appreciate making its exports more expensive and imports easier to purchase. When corporate profits grew to a point where there wasn't enough investment opportunities in Japan, they invested in foreign properties. While wages rose and policies like life time employment became common, the Japanese worker did not participate in the prosperity because domestic product prices (with little import competition) rose as fast as wages. Two events lead to Japan Inc's collapse. One was a foreign real estate market collapse, vaporizing much of their accumulated profits. And the advent of computer controlled manufacturing that allowed third world countries (ie Korea) to produce world class goods. Suddenly, the high Japanese wages were not competitive, and the Central Bank could no longer maintain a cheap yen. It has taken almost thirty years for the true value of the Japanese Yen to erode back down to the glory days of 120 Yen to the dollar. Unfortunately, cheap foreign manufacturing provides competition that wasn't there in the '70s.

Oops,... Drilling - not filling. Curse you auto correct.

Jay, your 71 came with a single bracket that was spotwelded to the hatch frame. Over time the stress from the strut flexes the welds and causes them to fail. The fix involves filling through holes in the frame and bracket and securing with screws and bolts. I may have a spare one in the garage. You can get a new strut at autozone. There is a second bracket to secure the other end of the strut to the hatch near the lower cover. Do you need that one as well?

Here is a better picture, dirty, but a good representation.

Does it have to be a 5 slot mag? I have a set of 6 slot American Drag Master mags 14 x 5.5 0 zero offset. I have previously mounted 205/70 R14s on them with no interference problems. These tires have the same diameter as the original HR170-14 tires and even yields accurate MPHs on the speedometer. They currently have chrome center caps and no tires.

Thanks for the comment. I have heard that full dash caps can be a handful to fit really well. Leather can be stretched with water and shrunk with heat. If you have a free hour, watch the YouTube video I cited in the other thread. You will be amazed. My only other experience working with leather was molding a holster for my pistol. If you decide to go the leather route like me, I would suggest soaking the precut cover in water to allow stretching. Hold the wet cover I place with spring clamps, You can use tennis balls clamped into the three small gauges. Allow to air dry over the course of a day or two.

Considering the effort to remove and install the dash is the same with any repair process, I will discount that amount from consideration. I discussed the relative efforts and results in my other thread. http://www.classiczcars.com/topic/50755-leather-dash-cover-installation/ As for results, it depends on the desired end result. I did the repair with the SEMS plastic repair last year only to have it fail due to my inexperience with the product and it short working time. If you are looking to simply restore the original look, leather is not for you. Better to use the Six 10 adhesive, texture coat and paint. The leather adds an additional level of plushness and did elevate the interior. Additionally, if the brittle, 45 year old vinyl cracks again, no one will ever see it. The final appearance will not emerge until I have finished the minor touch ups and applied leather conditioner. So we will see the final impact soon.

My thread there includes photos and installation considerations in several postings. The attached photos were taken after re-installing to the point of getting the engine to start and verifying electrical connections. Will do some final trimming and cleaning soon.