peej410

alright ill look for that, neither one is too easy to move right now because its surrounded by other crap, but i got a caliper and checked the bores. the 77 is 4.000 exactly at the top (cant check down any further for taper) and the other the 72 is 4.005 so it was just honed once. the pistons in the 72 measured 3.990 which means piston to wall clearance was .007 all the way around isnt that way too much ? this (the 72) is the recon rebuild i had in my car that only lasted about 1500 miles. before it started puking oil out

my 72 is a two bolt so i doubt its a 302, plus it has a 4 inch bore. seems like they are just boring 350s to me.

alrighty, 72 - 3970010 77 - 14010207 the ages are from what i was told when i bought them so i dont know if thats accurate. if i wasnt flat broke id go buy a chevy casting book grrrr thanks guys

yeap i widened the opening of the tranny tunnel too i should get an extra inch and a half if i did the measuring right i figure itll give me even better weight distribution offset my heavy steel tube front end and my short arms will reach the shifter better hehe. that and the car will probably launch better aswell. im still going to tie the cage assembly into the frame in the front and later this winter im putting in my fuel cell and ill be reinforcing everything back there aswell. im also thinking of building a tubular bumper underneath the roll pan area then smoothing it all out but i havent decided yet

http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/peej410/album?.dir=b912&.src=ph&store=&prodid=&.done= hopefully that link will work the last 7 fotos is all new stuff, havent gotten the pictures of the cage fully welded in yet tho

hey peeeeeps, im going to start the rebuild process on one of my blocks and i was wondering which if either the 72 350 2 bolt or the 77 350 2 bolt is a better choice. i noticed that the casting and machining on the 77 looked much better. if casting numbers are needed to figure this out ill get them. -pete

search is your bestfriend, after that the rest of us

if you did a removeable strut tower brace then i would put a tube in the cage above the struts but thats just my preferance. for me aesthetics play little part in structural rigidity. if you look at the pics in that page there are no plates on the floor i made a triangle shaped box that the main hoop lands on. mike, 1200 sounds very inexpensive for a 12 point. i dont know if their hours are less but we just built a spec miata cage that was very extensive and it was absolutely our best spec miata cage yet (we always try to improve things.) it probably cost 2200 for the guy including the seat install which required modifying the transmission tunnel. our first spec miata cage can be found at http://www.tangerineracing.com/miata_cage_photos.htm this didnt require as much work as our most recent cage which recieved many improvements check out the rest of the page and u can see a bunch of the stuff that i used to work on oh and unless specified by the SCCA GCR or the customer (ie.120 wall not 0.95) we always run 1 1/2" DOM .095 tube. depending on the car weight and stuff like that. all of our tube coping is done with a 1 1/2" or 1 3/4" end mill in our bridgeport milling machine and not with one of those tube notchers. make sure to take good look at the the weld joints and such. i just spent this past saturday at limerock park here in connecticut watching my old boss chris (owner of tangerine racing and CFR) race and having looked at some of the cages in the cars i was horrified by some of the work. so be careful and do your research (not implying in any way that you havent already)

i made an 1/8in plate that goes to the top of the strut tower between the strut and the inside of the C pillar and i made a standoff from the floor that can be seen here http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/peej410/album?.dir=18fa&.src=ph&store=&prodid=&.done=

i build SCCA rollcages for a living i have about 11 under my belt i think even a rally civic cage. my mentor/boss thinks this cage will be perfect for what i want out of the car. everything except the overhead bars are above and beyond SCCA specifications. unless i gut my doors (street car so unlikely) i wont be doing nascar style door bars which are the way to go as far as im concerned. the car will be infinately stronger in any sort of collision ill have protection for my feet and my legs from getting crushed my whole car is built out of tube steel. i think i should be just fine but i do appreciate the concern pics of my cage so far can be seen here http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/peej410/album?.dir=8058&.src=ph&store=&prodid=&.done= besides the cage tested by SCCA that was written per their rules failed in the car they tested but its still in review i believe and they havent released how it failed yet. mines all 1 1/2 .120 wall for just a lil added strength

Call me ignorant, but how can you make a SCCA legal 6 or 8 point cage without overhead bars that connect the tops of the front and rear hoops? the cage is only for safety on the street, it isnt built to race in any sanctioning body, i wanted more rollover protection and more rigidity and thats it.

the main hoop is the section that starts behind the drivers seat goes up along the b pillar and across the roof in the car to the other side and down that b pillar to the floor its the main structural part of the cage. foam will help put u need the high impact stuff, u can barely squish it with your hands and even then i still say its unsafe

in that case id suggest a 6 or 8 point "cage" but no overhead front bars because a street driven car leaves your precious skull open to massive blunt trauma from these tubes in a side collision and a roll over. im personally building a 8 point roll bar. one main hoop at the b pillar area which is common and a hoop where the dash would be. bent door bars that arent too hard to get in and out of the car but leave elbow room i will have forward braces to keep the wheel out of the passenger compartment incase of a front collision and two rearward braces that go to the strut mount area.

grr, i couldnt afford peel n seal right now if i tried, this 2 month hiatus from working to play with the car and try to fix my sleeping habits has killed my wallet

when designing a cage you can, much like ive always done, tack the main hoop assembly together very well, remove it from the car finish welding it. retest fit it in the car. remove it again prep it and mask off the places that will need welding like the forward hoop assembly (also made as a removable piece temporarily) mask of the ends of that aswell paint both assemblies then your left with your door bars and the like do the same thing with those and u have four main sub assemblies that then can be installed and all welded in place. then you just reprep the welded areas and paint those. ive done this on quite a few cages and it works fairly well. the only problem with the Z is getting the upper parts for where the front bars welds to the main hoop welded but there are many ways of getting around that. just have to be creative. most of all never skimp on quality of the cage construction just to get good paint on it.

hahahah alright

isnt it sensitive to uv rays though ?

hahahahahh who gets to apply and who gets to remove ?

hahahah i am actually currently trying to find out if a product i designed has already been patented right now but it doesnt involve hair removal. where can we find girls with hair on their bodies? ICK for testing lol

hahah i got it stuck to my leg once after a strong breeze blew on a rooftop one day, yeah i had no hair on that leg for about a month.

hrm, so i guess ya just cant win, i was thinkin maybe one of those clear plastic things mountain bikes usually get on the lower chainstay for a cover but im not sure as of yet

i have bedliner on my floors and under that is por 15, every time i work on pulling a seat or adjusting my gas pedal or anything near the floor i always skin my knuckles on the herculiner. it never pulls out any skin but its absolutely brutal as far as hurting.. maybe im just a wussie haha. i was thinking maybe the por15 hardnose stuff for the cage, i had a snafu today and ended up cutting out two bars and making one bar in their place for the seat back braces so i didnt get to do my forward bars like i anticipated so the whole things gonna have to wait to get painted till next week. hows the engine paint holding up ?

by the end of the day today i hope to have the main hoop assembly of my rollcage fully welded and ready to prep for paint my door bar thingy will be sorta high and i was wondering what kind of paint i should use on my whole cage assembly that will handle alot of abuse as far as me sliding in and out of the car all the time hehe. i did a search but i didnt come up with much so i was wondering what you guys have used in the past and how it held up thanks -pete

i used to roof for a living and i always wondered about this stuff. peeling off the film and flipping a 20 foot piece into place in a valley was always fun, especially if someone stupid left the rolls in the sun hehe its very very sticky when its warm so becareful not to get it stuck to itself

just yesterday i looked through all the pictures again and i got chills can i apprentice for you henrik ? also i was wondering, not sure if i asked before or not but do you know an Erick madson ? he used to work for ohlins a while ago and he still does part time as an independant contracter setting up suspensions for people all over the country, hes a customer of ours we did a bunch of suspension pickup point modifications to his porsche 914 race car