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jaime240z

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Everything posted by jaime240z

  1. Nice looking car Your engine bay is very clean! SWEET!!
  2. Guy, if you can tell me when your intake and exhaust valves open and close in relation to TDC I can give you some rough numbers! I'll email them right off the program if you like.
  3. Sure 80lt1! I've got a dyno and I'm bored. Give me a few minutes.....
  4. UNder imesh you must do the imseh download first. If you've already done that, then type dyno under the search and for the category scroll down to software. I tried it defore replying to your post and it only took 5 min. to download desktop dyno 2000 with broadband.
  5. OK. Try your yahoo mail!
  6. All this talk about Big Brakes and vented rotors and Big calipers............. makes me want a set! Juan, I noticed your kit on ebay and I see the quantity running low. When wiil you make another run? I don't have the cash to order right now but I will in a few weeks. Thanks! 8)
  7. I'm pretty sure Autometer temp guages are a complete unit for mechanical temp guages. I believe the elec. temp guages come with senders too, but I would call summit racing or jegs to be sure. summit: 800-230-3030
  8. I think you're right Dan. It's been a while since I've actually seen wire wheels like these in person but the idea is that they fasten so that the hub will get tighter as you drive. Again, different brands may be styled different, too. I guess it just depends on how these were made.
  9. Damn TSW Trophies look sweet on early Z cars! Hey Zach are you using adapters with yours?
  10. Pretty much any 5 in. tach will fit the factory hole for 240s. How you mount it is up to you. I used the Autometer U bracket, mounted it on the guage upside down ( with the U legs facing the front of the car ) and secured it to a brace behind the dash. The Autometer 5 inchers ( speedos and tachs ) fit so nicely that a friend of mine got his to stay by merely wraping 1 or 2 rounds of electrical tape around the rim of the guage and plopping it in the hole. I know it sounds raw but it works! Just don't try to mount a tach with a shift light attatched. That won't fit so great. I've got some pics I can e-mail you if you like.
  11. Oh yeah....you will also need to beat the crap out of the spinner when you need to take the tire off. And don't leave home without that hammer. (in case of a flat)
  12. If they came with a hammer they are probably Dayton or Zenith wire wheels. They should have come with adapter plates that bolt on to your car where your wheels would normally go. Next you place the wheel and tire (already mounted and balanced of course ) and slide the center of the wheel over the adapter. Next take the knock-off ( spinner, center nut, etc. ) and thread it onto the adapter. These threads may be reverse thread if I remember correctly. Try righty-tighty first if that doesn't work try to reverse the thread. Once you have it hand tight, lower the car from the jack or whatever lift and use the hammer to tighten the thread some more. It should be a lead hammer to minimize any damage to the knock off. Try not to hit the dish of the wheels while you're doing this. This is what holds the wheels to your car! As you drive and the wheels spin, it should further tighten them on. Hope this helps!
  13. I'll let you know as soon as I get them. The guy from GC said they are just big enough to fit between the sleeve and the strut.....
  14. I just got off the phone with GC and it looks like my kit was missing the ruuber rings! They're sending out to me today. Thanks for the help!
  15. I didn't get a rubber ring with my kit. I got the metal perch that needs to be welded to the strut housing(4), the threaded sleeves with adj. nuts, springs, and aluminum top pieces. I think I'll call GC again and ask them if I'm missing pieces. Thanks for the help. That picture helps alot!
  16. OK thanks! That's what I figured but I just wanted to be sure.
  17. Thanks for the help guys. I do have the illustration sheet from GC. I understand I need to cut off the stock spring seat and weld the new sleeve seat from GC. The only part I'm unsure about now is how the threaded collar joins the perch....Does it just sit there held together with the compression or does that need to be welded together too? Thanks.
  18. Yeah, that makes sense. The new perch is just a flat surface....I guess the threaded sleave just rests on the perch...?
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