Zfan1

Mine has never lifted the wheels and my ride turns low 1.40's for 60 ft.'s and runs low 6's in the 1/8th and high 9's in the 1/4. Looks like fun too!

Well when you have a 385 sbc and hit it with a 175 shot it snapped the axle in half, found the "new" weak link...LOL Car runs 6.20's at 113 in the 1/8th and 9.87 at 139 in the 1/4. Axles lasted 3 yrs so I am not complaining!

I agree with John, a 600 Edelbrock is a drop on and drive but if you are seeking performance a Holley 600-650 Double Pumper is the way to go.

Never mind, I found my answer!

This is my purple turd. It has run a best of 9.87 at 139 in the 1/4 and 6.28 at 113 in the 1/8th. It's a 385 sbc on a 175 shot.

I am running a R200 clutch type rear end and 300ZXT CV axles, I broke one in half the other night and was wondering if the non Turbo version CV axles are the same. It is much easier to find 300ZX's in the bone yards vs the Turbo cars. Thanks, Mike

It is rather simple, it's a way to generate revenue which in turn keeps this website afloat. I would rather contribute to this website than contribute to our Government...I'll save that arguement for a rainy day...LOL

It's been a long time since I have been on here. Does anyone know who if anyone sells a 3"-5" cowl hood for a 240Z? I am having clearance issues trying to fit a Super Victor intake under the 2" cowl hood I am currently using. Thanks, Mike

Grumpy is dead one. Rarely do you break one and not find another problem that is the root cause. Check valve springs, push rods, rockers and guide plates, lifters and hopefully the cam is ok!

Depends on the type of driving planned. I would guess a 650-750 CFM but weather you want a vacuum secondary or Double pumper remains to be seen. Need more info please.

Heck AFR 195's seem a tad small for a 434 sbc. I would def. think a 750 would be a tad small. I have a set of the AFR 210's on my 385 and love them, I am running a Proform 750 on my 385 and have entertained going to a 830-850 Demon. Your engine builder knows your combo though, maybe he's right?

Just ran a new best at the Texas Motorplex last friday night. went 9.94 at 137 with a 1.51 60 ft. Weather was perfect for racing, 72 degree's and dry air. I think leaving on the bottle earlier will get me into the .70-.80 range too. Right now I hit the sauce at the 60 ft. mark.

Is it just me or do those lifters look awful low in the lifter bore.

I have gone 10.11 at 123 in the 1/4..that was lifting at 1000 ft. Car should see 9.80's at 135-140. I drive it to and from the track if I do not break it..LOL I do not know what is fast enough. I'll let you know when I get there.

You must be running a solid axle, what kind of times do you run on motor only? I went to the track on sunday and my nitrous soleniod stuck closed so I never got a chance to make a pass on the sauce. I think the bottle pressure (1200) psi was the culprit. It was 97 degree's out so my best on motor was 11.15 at 120, about 3 tenths off what I normally run on motor.

RWHP can be misleading to say the least. I have dyno'd my 2840 lb Z, with me in it and I have a best of 373 rwhp and 400 rwtq. Not great for a 385 sbc with 11 to 1 compression, AFR 210 heads and large hydraulic roller cam. That said it runs 10.80's at 125 in the 1/4. If you do the calculations it comes out to more like 445 rwhp. Dyno guys said torque convertors can screw the numbers up. Like the others said, weather, altitude, tuning, all play a big part in the mix. Good luck at the track and let us know how it went!

Run the Mickey Thompson 255/50-16 drag radials. They hook big time and you can drive it to and from the track. The slicks are not street legal and if it rains...well you know.

I am using Hooker Super Comp long tube headers on my Scarab type Z.

Solid or hydraulic roller cam?

No exhaust leak, I know that sound/issue. I have checked plugs, wires, carb, the lifters have very little mileage on them but even Comp Hydr. roller lifters can go bad. Tomorrow I will take a long look at the roller rockers, push rods, springs, keepers, etc... If they check out then I will have to pull the damn intake for the tenth time it seems,had sealing issues with that a while back. This set up has been good to me up until the last 6 months. I am suppose to go to test n tune on saturday to try to get her a 9 second time slip so I had better hurry up and find the problem before it really rears it's ugly face at 6-7k rpm's. Maybe she will hold up if not It just maybe time to look into a 6-7 liter LSX based build.

Grumpy, I had posted a while back in regards to my 385 sbc giving me fits with what I thought was a valve train issue and you thought it was the needle and seat. I too thought that the needle and seat fixed the problem as it ran fine for a couple of weeks. Last night I went out to get a friendly run or two in when it started to do the same thing again. I immediatly checked out the fuel in bowl level/needle and seat, plug wires and so on to no avail. Last night it did this fir the first time, when I started it and it sounded like a dead cylinder, stuck valve or something of that nature in sound. I put it in gear and slowly drove it in the lot and it just smoothed out and went away. I am beginning to wonder if I have a bad hyd. roller lifter even though they are practically brand new. I ran thru the different scenarios and it's not a bent push rod, broken spring as they do not improve when the motor is running. It sometimes takes a while for it to go away but it always does and that just baffles me. I am so tempted to go to a solid roller set up but I put a lot of money into this Crane billet roller cam, lifters, springs, push rods, roller rockers. Got any idea's? I am about ready to tear into her again. Oh, here's a refresher on my build. 010/020 gm 4 bolt block, zero decked, line honed. forged 400 crank 6" Eagle H-beam rods JE .040 forged pistons, Approx. compression is 11 to 1. Crane Billet hyd. small base roller cam 240/248-592/592 at 110 ls. Comp. Magnum Hyd. roller lifters Scorpion 1.60 roller rockers AFR 210 Eliminator heads, 65cc chambers Felpro MLS head gaskets .054 thickness Edelbrock Victor Jr. intake Proform 750 DP NOS Super Big Shot wet nitrous system 175 pills. Hooker Super Comp long tube headers. All Msd Ignition, Pro Billet, 6Al box, 3 step retard box. Msd wires. Thanks, Mike

I am in Plano, TX. 15 minutes north of Dallas.

1.75 primary is nice but what size collector?

Grumpy, Thanks for the tip, was the needle and seat. I cannot believe I did not look there instead of everywhere else. I have been laid low by an appendectomy. Damn surgery has killed my car fun. Have one other question, you seem to be good at finding deals. I have a friend that is need of an oil pan for his ford, the part number is canton 15-670, I have heard that you can pick up an oil pan for alot cheaper but only thing I could find was a proform pan for 160.00, you know of anything cheaper or should I jump on it. I am trying to help him get his car running, so it's a gift but money is tight right now. Just trying to save a buck or 2. Thanks, Mike

Grumpy, I've got a problem that is stumping me. I raced my car the other night and then parked it, after it sat for 20 minutes I went to start it and it sounded like it was missing bad so I shut it off. A while later I started it back up and it ran fine so I loaded it back up on the trailer and took it home where it sat for 3 weeks. I then fired it up and it ran fine so off I went to go run around with some friends. I went to start it again and it sounded like crap, making noise in the valve train. I decided to limp it home after it wouldn't clear up. After driving a mile or two it went away and ran fine. I checked the wires, plugs, etc. and they are fine. I pulled the valve covers because it sounds like stuck valve or one out of adjustment but found nothing. Any idea's? It's a sbc 385, carbed, with a hyd. billet small base roller cam, new Comp mag. lifters, new comp springs and Scorpion 1.6 roller rockers. Heads are AFR 210 Eliminators. Oil pressure is great, running temp is great. Thanks, Mike