dmyntti

Oil on all six plugs and the PCV system isn't connected to the intake. It pretty much has to be the turbo. I see no other way for oil to get to all six cylinders except through the intake. The only way into the intake would be from the turbo I believe with no PVC conected.

I will post my version of this as I have not posted it before. I read on this sight of people using Nova rotors and another person (DOT) using Camaro rotors on the front of their cars. I had an 89 Formula Firebird that I was stripping for parts so I thought what the heck. The rotors and hubs from the Firebird fit the Datsun spindle if you use the Firebird inner bearing and the Datsun outer wheel bearing. The firebird rotor is the same OD as the datsun rotor but is a thick vented type. The 89 Firebird calipers are a floating single piston type that does not appear to be adaptable to the Datsun. I am going to try the Toyota 4Runner calipers for the vented brake as I believe these will fit. Dot used a newer Camaro for a donor and was able to adapt the calipers. When I installed the rotors and hubs I tried the 16" Formula Firebird wheels and tires and they fit in the wheel well. My Datsun looks pretty funny with the 16" Formula wheels on the front and small Datsun wheels on the back but I will take care of that eventually. The only real problem with this is that you have the bigger Chevy bolt pattern on the front and the five lug conversions for the rear are all the Ford bolt pattern. Hope this helps.

I used to have a Yamaha 750 back in high school. One day when riding on the highway a vehicle in front of me through up a rock. The rock went through the center of my face shield (I was wearing a full face shield) and cut my nose. I was knocked back and one hand let go of the handle bars. I was totally out of control and couldn't get to the front brake or control the handle bars that were darting from left to right very quickly. I was luck that the bike remained upright and I was able to get it to the shoulder. I drove home down the shoulder at about 20 mph shaking the hole way. I have never ridden a motorcycle other than a dirt bike since. The thing that scared me the most was that no one had done anything wrong or out of the ordinary and I could have easily been killed by dumb luck. My older brother has always ridden a motorcycle but he has a wreck about every third year (two in the last six months). I think maybe my family should stay with 4 wheels but that is just my opinion.

That looks like a cast oil pan. Why not drill and tap that for a pipe plug or a drain plug with a gasket. You said it was a perfect 1/2" hole, was it drilled there? If so what was it for?

Try checking the ground on that side. Your running lights might be grounding through the turn signal.

I looks to me like that driveshaft would be to long for your conversion. The point you measured at the rear diff. would be the center of the rear U-joint. You would end up with less than an inch from the center of the front U-joint to the transmission. There would be no way a yoke would fit much less have the required spacing to keep it from bottoming out on the transmission. Your best bet is to get a driveshaft froma donor with a T-5. Install the yoke in the transmission and space it back (I believe 1/2" is recommended) and measure the distance between U-joint centers. Then take the whole driveshaft down to a driveshaft shop and have them build it for you. The last shaft I had made cost me $150 and that was lengthened requiring a new tube be installed.

The dry ice method works just the same as the heating method. The idea is to rapidly cool the metal to cause the metal to contract and pull out the dent. By using dry ice you need much less heat to get the desired effect. My brothers F150 had some hail damage on its roof and the insurance adjuster suggested parking it in the sun and when it gets hot putting dry ice on the area. They ended up bringing it to a body shop that heated it and used dry ice and all of his dents came out without requiring any paint work.

Probably the cheapest upgrade is to do the Toyota calliper upgrade on the front. You could also try performance brake pads. There have been several posts about the Toyota caliper conversion and about better brake pads.

I personnally prefer the look of the 280ZX. If I didn't already have a 240 to build on I would prbably go with a 280ZX. I have even considered trading my 240Z for a 280ZX as I am building a daily driver and think that the ZX would be more comfortable and I could always soup up my LT1 to make up for the added weight. It is all a matter of personal opinion.

Click on the classified section to the left of the screen.

Look close. Those wheels are just put in front of the wheels and tires actually mounted to the car.

If you do it I think it would look much better with the windshield layed back. I know this isn't easy but the windshield looks wrong in my opinion on an otherwise beautiful car. Just my opinion.

Is the Nismo unit applicable to the long nose R200? Everytime I found one of these units I was told it only worked in the newer short nose cases.

I was working for an engineering company designing a home thermostat. We used a device called a datalogger (I don't remember where I got it) that you plugged into the computer and programmed for how often to sample when to start and when to finish recording. We put these in the furnace ducts at several points and measured the temperature in the ductwork as the furnace cycled. When done we would pull them out of the duct plug them into a laptop and download the data (they would run for hours). These things were pretty cheap and were quite small. It seems like we got them from either McMaster Carr or Grainger but it was 7 years ago so I don't remember for sure.

Another common approach is to use propane from a small propane bottle. Just attach a rubberhose to the end of the nozzle and use the other end of the hose to search for the leak. I find this works better than carb cleaner and have never had a problem with it.

The amount that the air in any of these parts increases or decreases is dependent on several factors. One of the most important factors is the difference in the temperatures between the air and what is heating/cooling it. If you have air coming out of the turbo at 200* and the air inside your engine bay is also around 200* then the air will not be heated in the piping in the engine compartment. The intercooler can not cool the inlet charge to less then ambient air temperature so it will always be warmer then outside air. I would think the ideal routing would be to take the coolest aie possible into the turbo, then the hot air from the turbo across the engine compartment (very little difference in temperature, it might even cool it some) into the intercooler to cool it as much as possible and then out to the trottle body spending as little time in the engine compartment as possible. If you go the other route and run your intercooled air across the engine compartment then you have relatively cool air (100*) running through a relatively hot are (200*) thus heating it up some. My thermo is also pretty rusty but this is the way I believe it should work. The real question is just how much of a temperature difference does it make, it may only be a few degrees.

Thats right the ground on the tach is just for the illumination. The four wires should be one hot with ignition for the tach and one that goes to the distributor tach terminal. These are the only two needed to make the tach work. The other two are for the illumination. One is connected to the dimmer switch and the other goes to ground. I cannot help you with which color wire goes where but your instructions should tell you that. Hope this helps.

The jolt you got had to be from the secondary side of the ignition which grounds through the spark plugs. The primary side is only 12 volts and you couldn't get much of a jolt from there it grounds through the distributor. The Tach should be fed power (+) from the battery and the distributor provides a switching ground. If you didn't have the switching ground the car would not run. You should be able to connect the tach hot lead directly to the positive side of the battery and the ground side to the distributor and check if everything works.

Yup, stuck float. Try rapping the float bowls with the handle of a screwdriver to get them to break loose. This is a fairly common problem but if it continues you may need to rebuild the carb and replace the needle and seat. Also check for a heavy float.

Maybe use some Helicoil thread inserts. You will drill the current holes a little oversize and tap with a special tap. Then you thread the special insert in with a special tool and are set. The process isn't too bad and doesn't cost too much either.

Check around to see what the parts cost to make a 383 LT1 with similiar parts. That CC305 is an awful small cam for a 383. As for the head porting it would depend on how good the machine shop was at porting LT1 heads. You could always ask for the flowbench numbers for the heads, if he can't get those then I would be concerned about the head work.

For websites try fbody.com and cz28.com The forums tend to turn into flame wars but there is alot if info with dyno numbers on these boards.

Check the Camaro and Firebird sites for your answer. You can get there with an LT1 but you will need to do ported heads and a big Cam (CC306 or GM847). There is a head porter on fbody.com named Loyd Elliot that everyone seems to like and his prices are reasonable last time I checked.

I had a Jeep with a 400 turbo do this. It turned out the filter was bolted in with a bolt that was way to long and the pickup fell into the pan. I was expecting to be replacing the transmission and it turned out to be a ten dollar fix.

I hear you. My LT1 conversion is going to get about 20,000 miles a year on it if everything goes as planned. I will be making many of the same compromises on mine. Is yours comfortable for daily driving?