spdsk8r

Saturday night my son talked me into going to Martin US-131 Dragway to run our cars. On my first run my trans started slipping in 4th gear (700R4). On my second run it slipped in 3rd and 4th and I shut it down. By the time I got it home 3rd and 4th were completely gone, I had to drive the last mile and a half in 2nd. I checked the fluid after I got home, it's still pink and does not smell burnt. I'm hoping it's the valvebody or something simple. Oh, by the way, I ran a traction limited 13.91 at 105 with my trans slipping in fourth.

Charlie, Did you get your fuel pump wiring all set? Back when I did my two 77 280Z's, I thought the wiring was quite simple, The JTR manual was quite clear, if used along with a Haynes manual wiring schematic. My JTR manual is the first edition, maybe later editions became unclear? Also, I hope my PM was clear to you.

Ya, it's taken me almost a year to fit in some catagory here. I went to a couple of tuner shows, and though they wanted to know how I fit "that" in there, I wasn't readily accepted. At first the clasic car guys didn't really accept me either, "what's that Datsun doing here?" until I was at the local Thursday night hang out. The tradition there is to "light them up" when you leave. The first time I went there, as I was leaving, I heard someone say " what's a Datsun doing here?" I then proceded to light them up for a block and a half. Since then, that croud has accepted me and my "Datsun".

The Taurus 2 speed fan came with the 3.8 six. It pulls @ 2000cfm on high speed, way more than enough for a highly modified V-8.

Though I have a ZX with a Camaro radiator, I am using the Taurus fan also.

My 79 also has the huge steering box. For a header, custom is required. I presently am using cast manifolds. For the drivers side i am using casting number 364747 to clear the steering box, and a rams horn manifold on the passenger side.

I had thought of using a 5.0 as my son is into Mustangs (he has a 90 Notchback with 422rwhp) but because of fitment issues stuck with the sbc (this is my third sbc/z conversion, first in a ZX). The oilpan sump and more complicated motor mounts required is what swayed me back to the sbc. The sbc swap is just too easy in comparison.

Do you realize that this post was 3 1/2 years ago?... ...'s ok, I do it all the time, also. It's still good info to have, thanks.

Love the look of your car. I think the BRE style spoiler, along with the cowl hood will make it look perfect.

When I was in high school (the dark ages) a couple of my friends were into bugs. For a senior prank, one weekend, they disassembled a VW, carried it over the school roof to a courtyard, and re-assembled it. On Monday morning there was a fully operational VW bug in our school courtyard. After they got caught (easy, as they were the only ones into bugs in school) they actually started it and drove around in a circle in the courtyard before disassembling it again.

The ZX tach is wired the same as the JTR manual says, and, Yes, there is an adjustment on the back. I used a GM alternator, it's easy to wire. In fact, use a GM one wire alt. which makes it very simple.

Though mine is a ZX, I'm using a Moroso 7qt. pan. I have had no issues driving on city streets. Here's a pic showing how low it is.

About five years ago I was being harrased by AT&T, getting three or four mailings each week. I tried everything, including tearing up the mailing and sending back in the return envelope. I finally wrapped a brick in shipping paper and sealed the envelope to the wrapped brick with packing tape and mailed it. I don't know if it was ever delivered, but the mailings stopped abruptly, a few days after that.

I'm at just under $2500. That includes the purchase price ($800) of my car, wheels, tires, and seats. I have done nothing to the body, yet. The original purchase of the engine cost me -$100, yes, minus. I sold the van body and the 4L80E trans for a hundred more than I paid for the whole donor vehicle. Smart buying, fabricating, and bartering has kept the investment down. Oh, and we can't forget the many, many hours of labor.

I have the 700R4 in my ZX. The most noticable negative I have found, besides weight, is the first gear ratio. First gear is pretty much a "go lightly on the throttle" gear (I'd like my rear tires to last more than a week). The 200-4R has a more desirable first gear. If I were to do it over again, I would go the 200-4R route. My local trans shop has quoted me a high performance rebuilt 200-4R set up specifically for my application, complete with high stall convertor for $1200. I am seriously considering it.

Back in 91 when I did my first conversion on a 77 280Z (JTR style), I just used cheapy Summit block huggers. They fit perfect, with no modifications. That was a long time ago, though, things may have changed since then.

I second what Yasin said. I am also in Michigan. I sold a 77 Z with a 350 conversion completed because of rust (became Andrew Baileys hulk). I went to Orlando to get my ZX. My ZX is not show quality but it is rust free, original paint and all. I have done nothing to the body...yet.

pparaska wrote "hot under-hood air is a horsepower sink we should try to get rid of with these setups that use a traditional single or dual plane manifold." This was my solution, though this picture shows my temporary ducting from filter to carb hat.