TrumpetRhapsody

Yeah, that could be animated. Like I said earlier you could make an object like shown above, copy the slide and move the parts to a different position, rinse repeat, and set powerpoint to auto advance through the slides at a set rate. It's a crude way to animate, but simple. I've been trying to find an example of a powerpoint animation to show you, but haven't come up with much. I know it can be done though, i've done it and seen it done on several occasions. That link you posted above of the clock mech is flash, yes. If you can get the software and are willing to learn, flash would probably be the best way for a web/computerized distribution. EDIT: Found some examples of people animating with powerpoint. Here's one using basic shapes (the animation starts a couple slides in, wait for it). Check out this website, they have some additional good examples.

Dunno if you've already finished and put it on the car, but here's a VERY quick photoshop job. Little preview maybe.

I don't know what your final goal is, so this might be totally off base. I've used them all from softimage and 3dsmax (needs a 2k machine lol) all the way down to good ol' GoogleSketchup. Anywho... If you're just going for a very very basic 2D presentation, believe it or not Powerpoint could be used. Think of it as a flipbook. You make a new slide with the parts in a different position, then set Powerpoint to auto switch slides at a certain rate. If your end goal is simple enough, this would probably be the easist way with a ZERO learning curve (unlike aforementioned software, some of which almost need a college degree, ha!) It really depends on what you're trying to do.

I had a little bit of a positive contribution tucked in there . Guess I just countered with too much poking-of-fun. Hint taken, my apologies. Anywho... That is an interesting read about the specifics of the differences between countries and fuel rating systems. Didn't know that much went into the octane rating. I've been told stories by a friend that owns a shell station, and always wondered how wal-mart style budget fuel stations can get away with selling lower quality gas. Based on that, I guess it makes sense to a degree since the octane rating is an average of two rating systems, and some preferential adjustment might be introduced to save costs.

I've wondered myself if something like this would be worth a try. It looks like the same shape and design as ones i've seen others use, but is quite cheap. Hmm....

Been following this thread for kicks, but this Q I might be able to give some input on. I believe his "don't mix" warning was based on the fact that over time two substances with different enough specific gravities will separate, and at any one point you might be running a higher concentration of one or the other, or just have an unpredictable mixture. Assuming that's correct, I didn't know the various fuels would have a different enough specific gravity to make a serious difference. Shows what I know! Now back to the experts...

Thanks to dsommer for letting me try out his recaros. I had about an inch to spare between my head and the roof not quite sitting up straight (normal driving style slight slump), so a helmet would get interesting. Granted his were on sliders, so maybe if I go the custom mount straight to the floorpan route I'd be ok. Perhaps mount the front slightly higher to angle me back a little. I'll just have to shop around for the lowest profile seats I can find, and custom make some mounts.

It's headlight fluid, gosh get it right! Perhaps you're confusing AVgas with Jetfuel, which will give you tons of extra power... right before your engine melts. Down to business - So, is there a legitimate reason you're wanting to run this stuff? Potential for increased timing, reduced knock, higher boost, a cheaper (???) solution to other high octane fuels?

Edit: Now that you have it off, be sure to take some pics for us as you get the dents worked out!

Ah. I didn't know who James was, and in context assumed he was a moderator or something and that you were making a reference to that guy's outdated post. My bad, moving on... That picture above is what got this whole idea rolling, and why I dug up this older thread. Another member mentioned the idea to me while debating the differences between the HX-35 and HY-35. It seems like the TimZ version might be a little more efficient, but i'm no fluid mechanics expert. Therefore, I'm curious which version zguy36's tried and claims provided little benefit.

Could be because that post was like 10 months ago. zguy36's: I'm curious about your design. Was it the Thaggard style, or the way mtcookson was doing his; That is, blocking off one side with a butteryfly style flap, or redirecting flow with a full width plate?

Yeah, IIRC somewhere Thaggard said it helped spool about 600 rpm sooner?

Ya let us know if you sell some goods! I wonder what shipping a motor from Idaho to Arkansas would cost...

dual maps, dial boost down on the low octane map? That's what i'm planning to do. I guess you'd have to have a laptop handy tho

I've been reading up on the differentials, and I'm pretty sure none of the S130's came with LSD's. I believe there are a few Z32's with LSD, but they're semi-rare IIRC.

Because they're awesome, that's why! I'd own one if I could afford it.

What's still left? What version of MS, is there enough piping and couplers to plumb up a FMIC? EDIT: PM Sent

How did this end up working? I'm thinking about picking up a HX-35, and would be interested in one.

I hate to flip-flop, but for my power goals I'm starting the think a full T4 might be the way to go after all . It might be easier to find a used one than trying to build a hybrid. If I recall, you're running a full T4 aren't you clifton? I saw your autox vid, and it was pretty impressive. Obviously I couldn't afford the GT35 (think that's what your runnning), but maybe something similar. I'll call that Arizona shop and see what they have in stock. 200-250 CID T4-S3 Trim T4 "O" Trim .58/.69 250-300 CID T4-V1 Trim T4 "P" Trim .69/.81 300-350 CID T4-V1 Trim T4 "P" Trim .81/.96 350-400 CID T4-H3 Trim T4 "P" Trim .96/1.30 400-450 CID T4-H3 Trim T4 "P" Trim 1.30 Found a little chart on another forum via google. You think the .81 hotside would be a little too laggy?

Hmm I get the feeling that cone under you isn't supposed to be there, oops! What rims are those, they look very nice!

Ok sorry, more news. The turbo "shop" emailed me back. Apparently they are more of a retail/refurb store and "do not change or compromise our work standards for budget reasons", so it's not the mom and pop style shop I was envisioning. I'll have to try to get this done elsewhere. Also: I read this thread, and now I'm thinking maybe I should wait to upgrade the compressor, and instead first upgrade to a Stage III 10 blade on the stock .63 hotside to help the exhaust flow. Then as the second step, based on reading this thread talking about surge I'm thinking I should do a turbo cam at the same time I do both the T04E housing and 60-1 wheel to make sure all the extra air even gets used. I know this is a personal opinion thing, but do you think maybe I'm overdoing it with a 60-1 wheel, and should try a stock .60 trim in the T04E housing first, then upgrade if I get greedy? I guess I could get the Stage III 10 blade first, then later get the T04E .60 trim. Then if I want more power get a 60-1 wheel and turbo cam. Do you think that might be a better plan than skipping straight to 60-1?

Ok so if nothing other than bumping purposes, I'll post my reply to the previous post's email: I may call them today to try to narrow down some pricing. $400 is probably a little low-ball, but it depends on the used parts. I'd much prefer paying considerably less to get used parts than refurbed or new ones. If the cost is still going to be a problem, I might just stick with the .60 trim wheel they include with the upgraded T04E comp housing, and upgrade to the 60-1 later. If that doesn't even get it low enough, do you think I could stick with my stock hotside wheel, and upgrade to a stage III 10 blade later, or would the lag be worse than a holset? Since I still don't know how to read compressor maps I just don't know how the different trims compare. I just try to interpret how people describe and compare them in the threads. Maybe I'll try to read up on maps today.

I think the stock dished pistons on the P90 head get like what, 7.4-1? So with flat-top pistons and a 2mm headgasket that would put you around 8-1? So with the higher CR you wouldn't be able to run quite as much boost, you'd get more low rpm torque IIRC. Therefore, and correct me if I'm wrong, because of the lower boost and less timing to avoid knock the engine wouldn't have as much peak horsepower, but with the higher CR would have more low end torque aka more streetability.

Thanks for the info on the injectors! So I got a response back from my local turbo shop. I'll post what I asked them, then what they responded with. They responded with I suspected that the T04E housing might need some machining to fit the 60-1 turbine in it, but I thought the Stage III turbine was a direct upgrade for our stock .63ar hotside housing?

Since I posted this thread my build has actually split into 4 "phases" This thread was really meant only to discuss the engine upgrades, so I didn't actually mention when I'd be plugging in the suspension upgrades. They are high up on the list though, and until they get resolved, the boost will be dialed down. Thx for the mention though. EDIT: Hmm, I can't go back and edit the first post. Guess I won't be updating it as I get everything resolved, lol.