TrumpetRhapsody

How did this end up working? I'm thinking about picking up a HX-35, and would be interested in one.

I hate to flip-flop, but for my power goals I'm starting the think a full T4 might be the way to go after all . It might be easier to find a used one than trying to build a hybrid. If I recall, you're running a full T4 aren't you clifton? I saw your autox vid, and it was pretty impressive. Obviously I couldn't afford the GT35 (think that's what your runnning), but maybe something similar. I'll call that Arizona shop and see what they have in stock. 200-250 CID T4-S3 Trim T4 "O" Trim .58/.69 250-300 CID T4-V1 Trim T4 "P" Trim .69/.81 300-350 CID T4-V1 Trim T4 "P" Trim .81/.96 350-400 CID T4-H3 Trim T4 "P" Trim .96/1.30 400-450 CID T4-H3 Trim T4 "P" Trim 1.30 Found a little chart on another forum via google. You think the .81 hotside would be a little too laggy?

Hmm I get the feeling that cone under you isn't supposed to be there, oops! What rims are those, they look very nice!

Ok sorry, more news. The turbo "shop" emailed me back. Apparently they are more of a retail/refurb store and "do not change or compromise our work standards for budget reasons", so it's not the mom and pop style shop I was envisioning. I'll have to try to get this done elsewhere. Also: I read this thread, and now I'm thinking maybe I should wait to upgrade the compressor, and instead first upgrade to a Stage III 10 blade on the stock .63 hotside to help the exhaust flow. Then as the second step, based on reading this thread talking about surge I'm thinking I should do a turbo cam at the same time I do both the T04E housing and 60-1 wheel to make sure all the extra air even gets used. I know this is a personal opinion thing, but do you think maybe I'm overdoing it with a 60-1 wheel, and should try a stock .60 trim in the T04E housing first, then upgrade if I get greedy? I guess I could get the Stage III 10 blade first, then later get the T04E .60 trim. Then if I want more power get a 60-1 wheel and turbo cam. Do you think that might be a better plan than skipping straight to 60-1?

Ok so if nothing other than bumping purposes, I'll post my reply to the previous post's email: I may call them today to try to narrow down some pricing. $400 is probably a little low-ball, but it depends on the used parts. I'd much prefer paying considerably less to get used parts than refurbed or new ones. If the cost is still going to be a problem, I might just stick with the .60 trim wheel they include with the upgraded T04E comp housing, and upgrade to the 60-1 later. If that doesn't even get it low enough, do you think I could stick with my stock hotside wheel, and upgrade to a stage III 10 blade later, or would the lag be worse than a holset? Since I still don't know how to read compressor maps I just don't know how the different trims compare. I just try to interpret how people describe and compare them in the threads. Maybe I'll try to read up on maps today.

I think the stock dished pistons on the P90 head get like what, 7.4-1? So with flat-top pistons and a 2mm headgasket that would put you around 8-1? So with the higher CR you wouldn't be able to run quite as much boost, you'd get more low rpm torque IIRC. Therefore, and correct me if I'm wrong, because of the lower boost and less timing to avoid knock the engine wouldn't have as much peak horsepower, but with the higher CR would have more low end torque aka more streetability.

Thanks for the info on the injectors! So I got a response back from my local turbo shop. I'll post what I asked them, then what they responded with. They responded with I suspected that the T04E housing might need some machining to fit the 60-1 turbine in it, but I thought the Stage III turbine was a direct upgrade for our stock .63ar hotside housing?

Since I posted this thread my build has actually split into 4 "phases" This thread was really meant only to discuss the engine upgrades, so I didn't actually mention when I'd be plugging in the suspension upgrades. They are high up on the list though, and until they get resolved, the boost will be dialed down. Thx for the mention though. EDIT: Hmm, I can't go back and edit the first post. Guess I won't be updating it as I get everything resolved, lol.

(I am) Thanks, I'll see if I can find a set of those. Yeah I had originally started by looking at a holset, but they're somewhat rare around here, and considerably heavier. (so i hear) For awhile I'll be ecstatic just to get over 300whp to be honest. Fastest car I've driven is about 210whp Doing anything else than using something that will bolt up to the stock manifold is probably out of my short term budget. Plus, later couldn't I just do whatever to the manifold and upgrade the hotside to a T4, since my compressor already would be? I'm hoping to find all of these parts used through a local turbo shop, if possible for about as much as people have been getting their holsets for, and put it all together myself. Then i'll have them balance it for me.

Hey, if it saved that much $, props to ya. I'd do the same. If you want it to look fancy try some sort of spray paint or something that won't flake. Maybe even chrome paint, i dunno.

Ok I think I'm getting closer to understanding this, lol. I've been getting confused with terms while reading other posts. This post cleared everything up a little. I've seen people talking about T4E trims with 60-1 wheels elsewhere, and didn't know that 60-1 was a trim in itself on the T04B housing. I see now that when you say the E's will limit me, you mean the wheels that come with them, not the housing. I think what I'm looking for is a T04E housing with a 60-1 wheel on the compressor, and a Stage III 10 blade wheel on the stock (.63ar?) hotside.

Yeah I actually meant to change my original post that I was now thinking about 60-1 as an option as well. So: - I should consider bumping up to some 550cc injectors then, noted - For my goals, a T4 60-1 trim compressor would probably be best It's all good. I was just mentioning that I'll have more control than running a stock ECU. Good to know that the internals won't have a problem handling it as long as I tune right though.

For simplicity I'm wanting to keep the stock T3 flange, and therefore using the stock hotside and integrated wastegate. - I'm not familiar with the E60 you're referring to. I'll search it. - So you think I should go for a Stage III wheel, don't worry if it's a 10 blade? - I'm still learning about compressor maps. - As far controlling knock, i'll be tuning with megasquirt. When I try to get into the higher boost levels I'll be adding meth or alcohol injection. Just as a comparison, what setup (turbo, pistons, heads, CR, boost, FMS) do you have on your L28ET ? I notice you list 417whp on your sig. Thanks!

Maybe that is a little excessive. But some wheel well subs, a couple 6" mid-range up front, and lots of dynomat; sure makes traffic and road trips bearable.

FedEx has delivered faster than UPS to both places I live. They also have a better tracking system I think. Dunno if it's the drivers or the sytem, but it tell me where my package is and when it's delivered better than UPS. Or has in the past, it's been awhile since I've fedex-d.

Sorry to dig up an old thread, but you mentioned you'd keep up to date with progress. Did you start a new thread? I didn't see one. Reason I ask is because that seems like a pretty handy kit for when I rebuild my engine with forged internals. Assuming you got it all installed, how did it go, and how does it run (8.5-1 cr?) with your turbo? If I grabbed that kit, I think I'd do the 87mm pistons for a .040in overbore, which with the "8.5-1" pistons and a 2mm head gasket would put my cr to about 8.16-1 (according to the engine calculator using flat top pistons). I think with that ratio and a good megasquirt tune i'd be able to get a decent amount of boost and power out of a T3/T04E, yeah?

I've seen that listing while searching for a Z to buy locally. I wouldn't mind the sound system, but the paint job... nah.

If only we were all so lucky, lol. In the near future I'll probably be picking up a minor rust, with 5spd but no motor, good interior S30 for about 1k. Not as good of a deal as you got, but I don't think it's too bad for northern arkansas. Plus the guy may have found me a L28ET motor for $650, which isn't too bad either (if it is indeed in good condition).

So I guess megasquirt wouldn't count as "very sophisticated" by that definition. That would be pretty crazy, since I guess along with EGT probes you would have to have fuel maps for each cylinder. Talk about some programming.

Lol yeah. I usually don't have too much of a problem with most car's unless they have a sunroof. I did have a bit of a problem in a MR2 spyder though, lol. I'll just have to sit in one and see. I might have to modify the driver side to have a recessed area for seat rails or something. Good to know the legroom will be fine, that was a concern. Thanks!

Sorry, could have been clearer. I was just joking about wanting to do something similar to what you're doing now if I want to get more than 5000 rpm out of the engine, and the inevitable spending of money if I do. Good to know if I get a pallnet fuel rail now I can use it if I work up a custom intake, thanks.

Only 5k huh? Hmm, that's... going to be a problem. I see more $$$ in my distant future. Great link, that helps. I appreciate you indulging my engine-ignorant self, lol. I'm learning little by little. Hopefully eventually I'll know what I'm talking about and be able to give back to the forum. One last question, then I'll get out of your hair. Are you planning on fabbing a custom fuel rail, or will you be able to use something like pallnet's?

Ah good some specific internals info Thanks! Based on that, when I rebuild my L28ET I might try grabbing some ARP bolts and forged flattop pistons. Perhaps join that up with a T3/T04E upgrade running 12-15ish psi and (if necessary) a little meth injection. Think that's too ambitious? (aka lots of detonation)

So basically it gets down to a diminishing airflow gain versus cost (or space in this case) ratio then? That makes sense, kinda what I was figuring. So that leads me to the next logical question (which has probably also been answered before): What are the gains expected with a custom fabbed manifold like your making here compared to a stock manifold? Obviously enough to outweigh the cost or you wouldn't be doing, so I guess I answered my own question EDIT: Careless: that makes sense too. I guess what I mentioning would affect an N/A engine more than a FI one, so it doesn't matter as much for us.

Ok I'm almost positive this is a stupid question, but I'm going to ask it anyway because I'm curious. Looking at those pictures, even with forced induction it looks like the cylinders closest to the incoming air would get the most air the soonest, and the cylinders in the back would get diminishing returns. Is there a reason most I-6 engines use intake manifolds with this configuration, instead of the air going into a header-like manifold that would get an equal amount of air to each cylinder? I'm sure this goes into complicated fluid dynamics and such, so feel free to ignore me or tell me to buzz off. EDIT: Oh yeah almost forgot the important part: those parts look great, Props! Can't wait to see them bolted up to the Z.