PanzerAce

Fwiw, #2 is what I'm running basically, except with no regulator on my stock mech fuel pump and triple 44s. Only problem I have is cold starts I have to wait for all the bowls to fill before I can really drive, and *sometimes* I boil the fuel in my bowls on hot days (though I've since re-tuned the engine for a *slightly* higher idle, which seems to have removed that problem, though now I'll get a semi-run-away idle in super hot weather, it'll jump to ~1.5k sometimes in 110 degree heat)

fuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuu

Mercedes for gasoline direct injection.

shhhhhh, don't let Bob see this thread, or he'll find a 510 to put one of those in

....yah, that reminds me that I really need to run my fuel return to the cooling bodies *before* it starts hitting 110+ ambient this summer

What setup is that? never seen something like that before...

that's puuuuuuuuuuuurdy

TBH, I've never actually seen pictures of anyone who's actually used the mikuni cooling bodies. Best bet is to hope that Tony has some pictures of them being used (and that he sees this thread)

If the pump will only push 4psi, in theory you're probably ok, but I'd say run the return anyways. Not like it can *hurt* anything.

The fuel return through the cooling bodies I *think* is only a possibility on mikunis (or, at the very least, that's the only carb I've seen mentioned for it). And I'd say run a fuel return anyways, not like you're losing out on anything by having one, and it's pretty easy to set one up. Just have every carb feed be off of a T in the lines, and just daisy chain them along. Last T goes to the fuel return line.

I'm thinking HE351VE, ~150 bucks shipped for one in good condition AND it's VGT. It's also what's going to be going on the LD28(T), so by the time I'm on the 104 I'll have plenty of time messing with one.

One thing to make sure of if you're pulling apart the switch, the little plastic....cap things on the end of the springs inside the switch are *really* easy to lose track of.

#1 - Daily Driver #2 - All Corners (must be AWD) #3 - High Speed Heaven (luxury & power) #4 - Mid or Rear (engine behind occupants) #5 - Off the Beaten Trail (4x4 & such...) #6 - Track Time (track vehicle) #7 - WILD CARD (just fill the bay - balls, class, style, prestige ... whatever) 1) Zundapp KS600 2) Y60 Nissan patrol 3) Ferrari 575M 4) Ascari A10 5) Class 10 Baja racer like so: 6) Ariel Atom 500 V8 7) S-boat. (Lets just say that 7th bay is going to have to be *really* big, and close to the water)

No idea to be honest. That project is annoyingly halted right now for a couple of reasons... messing around with the IP is actually way down on the list of stuff for me to do. I'm going to get it running well on all the boost it'll make first, then probably modify the stock IP first, run it a few thousand miles, pull it all apart, check for any wierd wear patterns, and if all is good, then start messing with the IP. As for what can fit...I'm pretty sure almost any not very modern IDI IP pump will work if it's for a six originally. Oh, and next time I see you online, I'm going to hit you up about turbo selection for the 104s, since Matt has shown me the error of my N/A ways Actually, come to think of it, by the time I get to that point with the LD, I almost might as well start on a MB diesel swap.....hmmmmmm

If it's the stock control setup, there's a chance that (like mine), the solder material has flown enough that it is bridging the switch. Pull the plastic cover off the steering column area. The two wires furthest to the right on the switch mechanism are power and the headlights. If it's been bridged, all you need to do is re-solder the wires.

And they've only been promised for how long now?

They're CHROME though.

Considering that cloud that came out the back, I'm pretty sure he's already running a bigger IP

Kameari has an 85mm. And jay, you *really* should start using the search feature alot more. I think I know where you're going with these questions, but read and learn first. For instance, twin turbos are *not* really the hot thing anymore with L cars, because of modern turbo tech allowing for low boost thresholds with large singles.

I look at it this way: Gas is gas is gas. Plus, if there was such a big difference in the requirements for aircraft and auto engines, they wouldn't use LSxs, 13Bs, and subie engines in airplanes (or 87 octane for that matter).

I'll be honest, I don't get this argument, since by that logic, avgas would be crap for in town driving, but once you get on the highway, all of a sudden it's great.

Easy way to get around that is to actually have an old lycoming or continental in your back yard. You're teaching yourself to work on engines on something simple zforce, can you tell me more about this lead fouling issue? Can it be 'burnt' off with some heavy right foot action, or does it necessitate pulling plugs and cleaning them?

Yup, happy time in my pants after seeing that.

Hmmmm....getting someone else to modify a holley for blow through.....you tempt me good sir, you tempt me... And very nice power figures. What mods to the block/head/crank/pistons/etc?

Had to dig these up since I lost *all* my pictures when my HDD crashed (huge picture warning): My LD28(T) 280Z back when I got it: http://img265.imageshack.us/img265/4629/img3549i.jpg the '73 240Z that is my current DD, and future M104 turbo home (again, picture from when I got it): http://img42.imageshack.us/img42/5835/img2788b.jpg edited to fix links