letitsnow

My rx7 has a 5.3, I'm running a true dual exhaust with x pipe, no resonators, and 2 magnaflow 2.5" out back, it's plenty quiet. I don't think I've heard much for complaints about magnaflows being loud. Are you running it in a garage or enclosed area? Positive there aren't any leaks?

It's not that I don't like the Z, but I'm not quite as enthused as I thought I'd be. I'm going to try to make it a little more comfortable, I've been driving around with no stereo and a very beat up interior. I really only had it running right for 2 or 3 weeks for the total time I've owned the car(5 years at this point). I get a ton of attention in it around here, just getting in and out at the gas station or grocery store people come up and want to talk. It's getting annoying, I'm not a terribly social person, nobody even glances at the rx7.

M18x1.5 to -8 adapter, Earls P/N 9919EFK, $10.99 each. Toss a crush washer under the adapter and tighten her down. This page has those adapters, along with M18 to -4, -6, and -10. http://www.anplumbing.com/Adapters/Metric-25.html

I'd go with an LS1, the swap into my rx7 was practically effortless compared to the L28ET into the Z. My 'ET swap was complicated a bit by buying a bum engine that was supposed to be good, and fighting with the MS for a year, maybe after I get to drive it while running properly I'll change my mind. But cost wise, I could have had an LS1/T56. The LS1 swap was so easy, bolt it in, pull useless wires out of the truck harness, build an exhaust(this was the hardest part), plug everything in, then burnouts happened. I hate to say it because I have so much work into the Z, but I prefer driving the rx7. If I did it again, it probably wouldn't even be a Z.

I'm not sure you're getting why they're called constant velocity, read the wiki article. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/SU_carburetter Also, the SU was designed by a Brit. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/George_Herbert_Skinner

Personally, I feel that KYB is a lower end strut. My dad has a set in his z31, I don't feel that they're any better than stock and I've had to replace several of them. I'd go with tokico blues over anything KYB for a cheaper insert, but if going through the effort of sectioning struts, I'd go with the best possible. It's a ton of work to do in the first place. I like my bilsteins, no complaints at all.

So I'm trying to replace the blades on my Z and they are making me feel dumb. They remind me of a side post, but the post is on the blade and the socket on the arm. I can't seem to find anything that looks like it online and the parts store guy didn't know what to do, so uhh, help? Edit: '77 280z, wiper arms came on the car, no idea if they are original though.

LS1 coils are logic level driven, they have the ignitor built in, the signal wire carries next to no current. I'll be running directly driven LS1 truck coils with the DIY wheel at some point in the near(ish) future, I'll report back with how it works.

I bought a bumper from Dave in person recently, everything was exactly as stated and things couldn't have gone better.

How does EDIS make things easier? You need to wire power, ground, and the sensor to the box, and then 2 more signal wires to the ecu, and mount the box. To have MS run the coils directly you need to run the sensor to the ecu. I left out wiring for the coils because it's similar for both. Having MS run things directly gives you greater selection of coils as well, namely LS1 coils. The software setup for either is about equally as challenging. The optical sensor is VERY similar to the RB, so there shouldn't be much scatter from the change in the disk.

EDIS is completely unnecessary, MS can do coil packs natively. The only way I'd use EDIS is if I was starting with an engine that had it stock, it adds some complexity and wiring to the system with very little benefit. I'd use either a crank trigger or the new DIYautotune wheel for the stock dizzy and LS1 coils(keep the dizzy just for the optical sensor, not for distributing spark energy).

I'm a senior at RIT in ME, it only gets harder, much harder. I went to a CC for the first 2 years, the clas size that finished was about 1/4 that of starting. You'd do well to talk to upperclassmen about which professors to take and which to avoid.

The first one was based off what I thought my car should be like, the second was the same as the first, just tweaked a little. It seemed to line up nicely with the dyno graph you posted when you account for the difference between rwhp and crank hp(I like 20%).

Pretty close to what I got. http://www.turbodriven.com///performanceturbos/matchbot/index.html#version=1.2&displacement=2.8&CID=170.856&altitude=50&baro=14.681&aat=75&turboconfig=1&compressor=70s75&pt1_rpm=1500&pt1_ve=75&pt1_boost=4&pt1_ie=99&pt1_filres=0.08&pt1_ipd=0.2&pt1_mbp=0.5&pt1_ce=60&pt1_te=75&pt1_egt=1550&pt1_ter=1.16&pt1_pw=3.49&pt1_bsfc=0.43&pt1_afr=11.5&pt1_wts=300&pt1_wd=83&pt1_wd2=74&pt1_wrsin=69033&pt2_rpm=2500&pt2_ve=80&pt2_boost=10&pt2_ie=95&pt2_filres=0.1&pt2_ipd=0.2&pt2_mbp=1&pt2_ce=68&pt2_te=73&pt2_egt=1600&pt2_ter=1.38&pt2_pw=12.22&pt2_bsfc=0.45&pt2_afr=11.5&pt2_wts=320&pt2_wd=83&pt2_wd2=74&pt2_wrsin=73635&pt3_rpm=3500&pt3_ve=87&pt3_boost=11.5&pt3_ie=95&pt3_filres=0.12&pt3_ipd=0.3&pt3_mbp=1.3&pt3_ce=73&pt3_te=72&pt3_egt=1650&pt3_ter=1.67&pt3_pw=41.2&pt3_bsfc=0.48&pt3_afr=11.5&pt3_wts=340&pt3_wd=83&pt3_wd2=74&pt3_wrsin=78238&pt4_rpm=4500&pt4_ve=92&pt4_boost=11.5&pt4_ie=92&pt4_filres=0.15&pt4_ipd=0.4&pt4_mbp=1.5&pt4_ce=76&pt4_te=71&pt4_egt=1650&pt4_ter=1.82&pt4_pw=50&pt4_bsfc=0.5&pt4_afr=11.5&pt4_wts=368&pt4_wd=83&pt4_wd2=74&pt4_wrsin=84681&pt5_rpm=5500&pt5_ve=87&pt5_boost=11.5&pt5_ie=90&pt5_filres=0.18&pt5_ipd=0.5&pt5_mbp=1.8&pt5_ce=73&pt5_te=70&pt5_egt=1650&pt5_ter=1.94&pt5_pw=51.5&pt5_bsfc=0.52&pt5_afr=11.5&pt5_wts=400&pt5_wd=83&pt5_wd2=74&pt5_wrsin=92044&pt6_rpm=6500&pt6_ve=75&pt6_boost=11.5&pt6_ie=85&pt6_filres=0.2&pt6_ipd=0.6&pt6_mbp=2&pt6_ce=65&pt6_te=70&pt6_egt=1650&pt6_ter=2.03&pt6_pw=36.67&pt6_bsfc=0.55&pt6_afr=11.5&pt6_wts=400&pt6_wd=83&pt6_wd2=74&pt6_wrsin=92044&

Multiply his power numbers by 1.2, that graph is rwhp, this calculator is crank hp. The matchbot I posted above turns out to be relatively close taking that into consideration.

Since the bank fire setup doesn't inject at any significant time, picking one is just as valid as the other with regards to how it runs. Mine are 123, 456, it will run on one driver fairly well.

I helped someone put a chinese turbo on their wrx, it was howling within 5(five) miles. I'd take an unbalanced garrett over chinese.

Are you asking about buying a Z or any car?

I missed that completely, I guess I was looking for something that said brake.

Huh? TTT doesn't have anything like that on their site, and z31's have the ebrake in the caliper.

Planning on it in the future. The kit was listed for $100 locally, I offered $70 and he said yes. MS covers all the safety stuff(window switching, WOT, fuel, etc), so it's kinda hard to say no. Planning on keeping to 50hp or so. I'm completely all right with sticking bottles in the freezer, fill stations are pricey.

Gpopshop quoted me 600 to upgrade my t3 to a t3/t04e 50 trim with a stg 3 turbine wheel, I would be supplying a core and the t04b compressor cover I have.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chevy_Silverado#Vortec_High_Output.2FVortec_Max This says that the truck came out in 98 and didn't offer any of the gen 1 engines, but the articles on the engines all say they start at '99. So I don't know, take a pic.

Already have a 10lber, so it's got to be that. I'll see about putting it behind the seat, I don't have the hvac hooked up right now and it sucks not being able to defog the windows, so that's not really an option. I'm not too concerned about it being super hidden, just out of sight enough to not attract attention from idiots, if I get pulled over, etc. Nothing like a huge, gleaming, purple tank to yell "HEY, LOOK AT ME!!". The stuff is so expensive that I'll probably end up leaving the tank out unless I go to the track, the temptation to use it just because would probably be too great. I think the only way I'll be able to afford this game is by buying it 60lbs at a time for $2/lb and filling my own, a single retail priced fill is almost as much as I paid for the used system.

Anybody have a decent, out of sight place to put a 10lb nitrous tank. I could mount it in the hatch, but I'd rather keep it out of sight if possible.