jasper

YOKE?........Brakes??????? These two don't go together. Did you press the pistons back into the caliper? If this question does not make sense to you..........You need to read, and learn .........

OH yeah, the full chronology of events would be helpful. Start when the car was running well, and the changes that occured thereafter.......

First off, your vacuum hoses look all wrong. You have intake manifold vacuum going to evap/return/canister/purge?, with no solenoid. Cap the vacuum tap on the left of the manifold and plug the hose. The vacuum to the advance unit seems to be plumbed to both intake and ported vacuum. I've never seen that.(notice the y fitting). Choose one or the other. Make sure base timing is correct.(no hose connected to advance.( make sure mechanical advance is free and not siezed) I may be incorrect on this (opinions vary), but I'm a fan of ported vacuum to the advance.(Side of carb I believe.) Seeing this mess,I wouldn't be surprised the ignition timing,and or the float levels are off. Me thinks you had an amateur working on your car, and not a knowledgeable professional. As a note: when the ignition timing is retarded,It sounds odd/wrong....also no power

If you read the ad..... "My Car has not been to the track but the video below is of Franks car which is the tech that built my car @ World Wide Racing with mostly the same set up as mine Running low 9's at 150+ mph. He runs the v6 vg30 i run the l28 6 inline is the only difference.

As a general rule.........a LARGE PLASTIC DEAD BLOW hammer works very well.

Why was the brake system repaired?? Was dive a problem prior to repair?? How many miles since repairs?? Are the brakes beded in? Is there still air in the system. Adjusted properly??? Since so many changes were made at once, you have many variables. Front struts should not be your first move.........

I have an early 260Z. I used a square port 280 exhaust manifold and head pipe. (no air injection holes to plug ) It looks like it flows better too. I drilled and tapped the bosses on the exhaust manifold, so as to use the 280 shield between the intake and exhaust.(bend/hammer/drill a few holes.) Looks/works better than factory!!! I then used a non egr balnce tube, and round tops (kept 260 intake manifolds). If I remember correctly, you will need the longer throttle rod from the 280,as the 260 is shorter. Looks and works great. Sorry, no camera/no pics.

I would NOT cut anything! A picture would be very helpful..........

First line of post....... "I went and looked at a friends car who has already ordered another >>>700r4<<<<" But my question is why order another trans, untill you know what the problem is, and weather it's easily repairable.....

Minor thread jack. I have a IROC 350TPI/700R4,(approx 235 HP? stock) sitting next to the incomplete 73 240Z. I'm starting to believe that will be PLENTY enough HP. An LS1 would be 100+ more HP .......is it really usable/enjoyable on the street, with that much HP?

What is wrong with the transmission, is there a problem ???...

What color is the spark?? Are the plugs posssibly fouled? Enough cold start enrichment? What is the fuel pressure?

I just bought this 4000 mile rear suspension assembly for $99.00 on ebay. 1993 190E 2.6 I need the differential, because my pinion bearings are noisy. I can't buy the parts to repair it this cheap!!! Now I'm wondering if this 5 link suspension, with camber and toe adjustments, just might fit under an S30??? I'll have to drag it under one of my parts cars to see what it looks like, in a couple of weeks.

I just purchased some tools from the UK, using paypal. Smooth transaction.

Auto, or manual trans????

My LAST POST on this subject. FOLLOW Dave's example!!! http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php?/topic/84832-my-latest-projecta-new-z/page__p__806282__hl__rope%20through%20window__fromsearch__1entry806282

Another option. Buy another/better car. Donate $20.00 to HybridZ,.. ..... so you can sell the parts you don't need. Probably at a profit over the $400.00 you paid. Benefit.? you don't spend a good deal of your life fixing rust, but rather driving your Z

When was the last time this car was in running condition?? My car sat 15yrs. It needed a fuel system rebuild/clean front to rear, starting with tank removal,etc,etc,etc. No fuel system part was immune. If you have many issues: fuel system, fuel system electric/electronic, etc...A good choice is to remove all of it, and go with an su carb...or easier....a 4 barrel carb set up ( my personal suggestion). Very easy AND VERY reliable. HOWEVER>>>>>structural rust should be your PRIMARY CONCERN. Don't spend money getting a car running that is too expensive to repair mechanically/structurally. For what you will pay someone to repair structural rust, you may be able to buy a much better car for less. Ask members of the rotisserie club for input.

If called, they'll never take me. I have such utter contempt for the system, and it's participants, everyone will exclude me.

quote name='B00STDZ' date='20 March 2010 - 08:06 PM' timestamp='1269129969' post='853483'] Yes , very beautiful...... I especialy enjoyed the F**kin die lyrics.....

There are all sorts of older good quality music out there. This is a 35+ year old example..... ,There are so many more, I'll stop here.

Degreeing the cam/timing the cam,......same thing. The only cars I can remember having factory adjustable cam gears were the early Jaguar L6 engines. Not an easy task. Made a big change when you got them right.

http://www.google.com/products?q=offset+camshaft+keys&rls=com.microsoft:en-us:IE-SearchBox&oe=UTF-8&sourceid=ie7&rlz=1I7ADFA_en&um=1&ie=UTF-8&ei=a0SkS4_oCMKBlAfPmISaAg&sa=X&oi=product_result_group&ct=title&resnum=11&ved=0CC8QrQQwCg

The lenght of the chain between the sprockets determines timing. The slack side is irrelevant. This is why Mercedes Benz makes offset keyways for their V8 cam sprockets. This enables you to degree the cam and account for/compensate for chain stretch/dimensional differences. I've used them, and done it. Think about it . The cam must rotate to take up the slack of the shaved head.......

The cut/shave, can change your cam timing...