jasper

Check ALL grounds for rear bulbs. Make SURE the correct bulbs are installed properly. Make sure all bulb contacts, and the sockets are not corroded(That is the bulb's ground point) The above are probably 90% of the causes of what you describe. What bulb # is installed in the left rear directional position???

It's a Relay. Use the diagram as a Guide. If you don't know how to wire it so it works..... You need a basic education on electrical circuits.

This looks very familiar...... Seriously.......VERY IMPRESSIVE WORK

Get 2 bosch 30 amp relays and make your own. A very basic and simple circuit.

I may have it figured out, with Z Therapy's pics. Later carbs have unequal lenght float hangers(ears).( found upon disassembly of my carbs), front verses rear carb. In addition, the removable seat(of the needle and seat set) are also different lengths (info found on another site), hence the need for different front and rear carbuerator kits. I found no mention in the FACTORY shop manual..(would also need 2 different float height adjustment specs.) The early carb kit services both carbs,(both front and rear ears of equal lenght). I will call the parts supplier to confirm two different lenght needle and seat sets, for the 2 kits, for the later version, of the round top su carbs. If anyone can add to, or confirm this.....it would help

I'm still searching, but no answer yet. The numbers on the float bowls are unreadable due to age. The one part supplier didn't have an answer. Ztherapy's pics/info aren't adequate. I dont need $130.00 dollar kits. $40.00 dollar kits will work till I'm ready to go for the total Z therapy deal. I just need help in identifying these carbs with regard to model year.

Well, of course I searched. I have ROUND TOPS on my 260z. The FIRST question, when ordering carb kits ( 2 types available), what identifies early carbs from later carbs??? They are 3 screw, but that apparently is not the determing factor. The second question, does anyone have carb rebuild kits for sale, at a reasonable price??? I need to do this soon...the car is down , and the weather is great ....Thanks..

http://www.flickr.com/photos/24796741@N05/sets/72157604247242338/show/with/2346008881/

The HIGHEST (IN/HG) vacuum you can attain, at any given throttle opening, is essentialy the confirmation of a properly tuned/carburated/adjusted engine,(regarding the fuel system) Ignition timing will cause vacuum to vary considerably. http://www.secondchancegarage.com/public/186.cfm

I do this ALL THE TIME. Take a small pick (small automotive tool). Make a small hole in the face of the seal(hammer), closest to the outer edge, but inside the metal lip. Stay away from the crank. Screw a long thin sheet metal screw into the hole 1- 1 1/2 turns. Stay away from the crank. Use a pair of diagonal cutters to grab the screw and lever it out, works every time. Place new seal into position, use old seal UPSIDE DOWN on top of the new seal. Tap lightly with a hammer all around. Remove old seal. Done.

If in fact you are talking about the heat shield, and running a stock exhaust manifold with carbs, I use one, and suggest you do too. Keeps the carbs and fuel cooler(a good thing).

That is a dealer/aftermarket installed accessory, mostly so the dealer could make a bigger profit by loading up the car. I personaly don't like them.

Quote from another forum: I thought many of you would enjoy the historic 7 min film of a street car traveling in 1906 California. The youtube link is below. This film was "lost" for many years. It was the first 35mm film ever. It was taken by camera mounted on the front of a cable car The amount of automobiles is staggering for 1906. Absolutely amazing! The clock tower at the end of Market Street at the Embarcadero wharf is still there. (I'm also wondering ... how many "street cleaning" people were employed to pick up after the horses? Talk about going green!) Great historical film worth watching. http://www.youtube.com/watch_popup?v=NINOxRxze9k This film, originally thought to be from 1905 until David Kiehn with the Niles Essanay Silent Film Museum figured out exactly when it was shot. From New York trade papers announcing the film showing to the wet streets from recent heavy rainfall & shadows indicating time of year & actual weather and conditions on historical record, even when the cars were registered (he even knows who owned them and when the plates were issued!).. It was filmed only four days before the quake and shipped by train to NY for processing. Amazing but true!

Many good suggestions here.^^^^ Make sure BOTH ALIGNMENT DOWELS are present. Shaft centerlines are important. I've also seen clutch discs installed backwards, locking up the clutch.

I suspect I'm not alone........ http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pillory

may need some love..not mine...... http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=160419362422&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT

I recall reading in one of the threads that getting this type of line to seal at the fittings was a problem. Because the stainless is so hard, getting a good crush/seal was difficult. I'll have to search.

HOLY CRAP...That sounds sweet

Just a thought,...this is not about SAVING THE WHALES, or caring for 3 LEGGED PUPPIES..... Get the best car you can. Rust repairs will eat up your time and money. Rust buckets for sale.Enquire within.

Spark plugs......lots of how and whys...start reading........ First and foremost....Fit Correct thread, seat, and length. If it doesn't fit right, you fail. Second.......HEAT RANGE!!!!! If it's wrong, it runs like ****, or you break/burn something, can be very BAD ( holes in pistons, etc).THE most primary concern , after fit. Copper, Iridium, paladium , etc, etc. Mostly longevity related. (NOTHING TO DO WITH CORROSION). RATE OF WEAR OF ELECTRODES, (not very important). Start with the book/manual suggestion, then alter ( heat range) to suit ( learn how to read plugs) Good Luck.........ART & SCIENCE

At that weight, he's definately a keeper. I would start collecting the parts for the Father & Son build now.....

Buy the guage set. Compare your guage readings to the diagnostic s in a good ac book. It realy isn't that dificult.Just make sure you have GOOD airflow through the condensor. IE; fan working properly, fins not dirty/restricted. Sounds like your low on freon, the guages won't lie........

Make sure the park brake lever is fully off. I think this is your Problem>>>>the WHOLE PISTON ASSEMBLY slides in/THROUGH the caliper housing. The housing is open at both ends, and has seals at both ends allowing the whole unit to move some, back and forth. See illustration BR178A You need to move the piston/yoke assembly THROUGH the caliper housing (maybe an 1/8 inch).This will push the inner pad past the metal protrusions on the caliper housing, that now hit the rotor when you attempt assembly.

I took another look. This caliper has the integral park brake.(not used in many of todays cars) In order to fully retract the piston, you must rotate it (the piston) clockwise, while pushing in. I use a pair of needle nose pliers. DON'T STAB YOURSELF!!! Also, when done, the slots(in the piston face) must line up with the pin on the back of the pad. I seem to recall a little dificulty with seating the yoke on the back of the caliper. Good luck.......

Are we talking about.............Rear disc brakes on a 280zx ??? I apologize... ..yoke is not an often heard term when it comes to brakes!!! I have seen very few over the years. However, with the piston fully compressed into the caliper.....there should not be a problem fitting the pads...........