ovenfood

why are L6's being sent here we have too many already

Tony D, 550cc does sound like it would be ok. I have a set of 550cc denso injectors for my RB20DET so I could always try them . Does the angle the injectors sit at play a big part in their effectiveness? HowlerMonkey, front sump L6 engines are all over the place hear I've even taken a few to the scrap metal yard... Noodle, did you need some turbo stuff? a mate of mine is trying to sell some stuff. Bluestag, nice car I do hope when it comes to it I can find an SU guy but I don't like my chances..

@ Tony D, do you think 2" is overkill? @ctc, I was talking to the machine shop at work and we drew up some ideas on that and it seams feasible the only thing is the injectors may need to be of a quite high flow capacity to keep up (not sure on the numbers as it was just spit balling)

@noodle. because ill need one

This won't be a full race engine as I don't plan to push the 240k the full 10 10ths I have faster less valuable cars for that part of the reason I wanted to go SU's is because kids my age don't think carbies can produce any real power for the same money and I wanted to see if I could step outside of what I know and use all the techniques of the cars era to get a decently powerful engine. Although it is tempting to make it efi.

Ok so I'll start with what I have, two LD28 cranks (V07) sets of twin SU manifolds flat top and round top 1 3/4 SU's two 2inch SU's off a jag (no other information was given) two F54 blocks (L28E blocks from 83 280zx's, still complete engines) two N24 blocks (L28E blocks from something... one complete one not) two L24 engines from 1974 240k's (still in the cars one still runs and the other is rusted/seized) a few N24 heads from L28E's 5speed 280zx boxes and R200's I want to build an L31 with twin SU's and extractors and put it in my 74 240k this particular 240k is one that has been in my family since new and I have always desired this car. So now that I own it I want to make it really special One of the main reasons I want to run this combination is that I want an average person to see this car and think thats a stock (or with minimal mods) car. My issue is that I am starting to think the SU's may be too hard to tune correctly as I have very limited knowledge about them. Im not looking for unreasonable high horsepower but with some thing in the range of 200hp to 300hp should do fine Does this sound like something that will be too hard to get right for a weekend street menace? Or should I just stick to an EFI setup

we had the same issue when a v6 from a Toyota Aurion "fell" into our laps the amount of time effort and money we would of used just to get that engine to the same point our cars are already it was not worth it. But we did get a fair bit of money from the scrap yard. It's a good idea but IMO it will be a "I put a vr38 in my car because I have too much money and I wanted to" thing... At least until they are truly cheap.

I drove my 83 zx for over a year with a steering rack that didn't work... although I was fine I would not recommend due to the danger of breaking your rack and losing steering completely, happened to an F truck owner who's truck I scrapped.

same mounts and its most likly using the same sump, we are using RB20DET gear to drop a RB26DETT into an S14a (not complete so can't give too much feedback on issues yet)

http://www.modern-motorsports.com/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=70 try that.

no offence tony but you are not giving a lot of info.. could be quite a few things. Is the car only making the noise under load or does it make it when you rev your engine as well. Also saying its in the front of the car can be interpreted many ways. How "in the front of the car" is it?

IMO don't use the R32 Z32 or S13 rear instead use new versions like R33 and S14 ive been measuring and i believe that the newer ones wont interfere with the chassis as much. as i have not done my R33 rear swap i cannot confirm this and wont be able till 2012 some time due to other commitments

i remember when i ordered my clutch the said there was 2 different flywheel sizes (we only got the 280zx 2+2 and 280zxt 2+2 in australia to my knowlege). Also have been told that RB's and L series flywheels have the same bolt patern. :>

I see your still calling yourself TTS Ill show how to go about it tomorrow if your at HQ. Did you see if the diameter of the strut top hole (the single hole the strut bolts too) is the same between the original and the adjustable?

http://www.rotawheels.com.au/blog/item/7-rota-rb-w-new-model http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/101073-rota-fast-forwards-watanabe-replicas/page__st__20 hey I know this isn't rare but I am very interested :> whats your opinions?

At any rate should the correction not be "the factory Nissan EFI system tester" lol

^^ same but get the S14 adjustable's, from what I hear they are a tad longer :>

im with gollum an neotech, you built a 7m (in aus they are also knowen to the kids as a pig but to the rest its an under rated build. IMO do it, why not....

dam my links message didn't pop up.... :< and glen another issue that comes up is ball joint angle, as you can see modern LCA's like the S13 are bent and ours are not... this is an issue IMO http://www.japparts.com.au/images/s13lca.bmp http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/95443-j-rex-from-team-shogun-s130-with-s13-coil-overs/page__p__897734__hl__j-rex__fromsearch__1#entry897734 http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/100803-s13-front-spindle-swap-qs/page__p__944954__hl__j-rex__fromsearch__1#entry944954 http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/94002-how-to-install-s13-coilovers-on-280zx-and-poly-bushings/page__p__885620__hl__%2Bs13+%2Bpoly+%2Bbushings__fromsearch__1#entry885620

The quickest way is to elongate the top hole in the bottom of the strut. But be careful that you are not going to contact anything I used hks adjustables and the adjustment screw on the bottom contacted the sway bar. links soon

^ same I run Google chrome as my browser and when I come across a Japanese site it goes "do you want to translate??" I click yes and then all the Japanese turns into bad broken English but it gives you an idea.

looks pretty

So the lightened fly wheel is a good idea. How about taking material off the crank to make it lighter? or that just over the top. (I am also asking from a hot streeter point of view) Leon

Is it $5K just for the stripes? For a bare metal respray that sounds ok but just for stripes it is a fair bit, IMO I would go to a sign writer and get a vinyl done. You may find its quite cheap and gets the same look as the original :> Just a suggestion

At the speed this would go it's not likely you would know what the graphics were any way... great job love those rear 1/4's