Six_Shooter

I'm crossing fingers, and toes, and arms.. and... In the end I'll likely end up making one. :shrug:

Anybody else?

+1

There are many off the shelf electric fan controllers available from basic probe through the rad to full digital control, so to say "There's nothing off the shelf that works well" is not a correct statement. The problems listed can arise in any swap, or not happen at all. I've done several swaps over the years in many different cars, some went on without a hitch, and some had a few issues. It's a part of swaps. Sometimes with the best planning something can be overlooked or not accounted for and problems might show up, or something thrown together can have no issues. It's a part of swaps... Before you toss out the L-series in the car (I'm assuming it's still in there), consider keeping it, and either building it N/A or adding a turbo. My '73 still has the L28 that was in the car when I got it, I have added EFI and and a turbo, which was only supposed to hold me over for a year or so until I got to my swap, that was 5 years ago. I still haven't performed the swap, and I've had the engine that I plan to swap in longer than I've owned the car. I drive my car everywhere and treat it like I hate it every time I drive it, and it just keeps going. The only "major" issue I've had was a head gasket go on me last year, but from the look of the gasket it could have been going before I bought the car, just the 4 years of abuse and trying to run it on the edge of tuning finally took it out. It would have been easy to run a safer tune than I had been, I just like to find the edges. So basically what I'm saying it, it doesn't take a swap to have something reliable, just some planning.

The L88 hood bulge is one of the fugliest I've seen on any car. With how bad they look on a 'Vette I could only image it looking far worse on an S30, seeing as the S30 was often referred to as "the poor mans 'Vette", and being smaller the proportions would be veryy off IMO. That being said I have thought a vented S30 that would seem, on the surface of things to be based on an L88 design, but would not detract from the S30 hood. I agree with Atozone Tonine, stock repros would likely sell better than anything else, but I'm pretty sure there's already suppliers of those parts. My suggestion, if you really want to bring a new S30 hood to market is design something from scratch instead of cutting and pasting like I mentioned earlier. When a cut and paste is done, it's pretty obvious. I did this with a hood I made for my Buick Skyhawk years ago, using a 4th gen Camaro SS scoop, and while it turned out nice and flowed better than I would have thought it would, I wish I would have created a scoop from scratch instead.

It could easily get out of hand like that. Funny thing is I just watched that movie (again) this week. There's a reason why you don't see a Mach 1 style hood or many other designs adapted to an S30: 1) they don't look good on an S30 2) the OEM hood flows perfectly. The only other design that can work, IMO, is a subtle cowl that doesn't take away from the factory bulge, but more accentuates it. In a different realm, vented hoods can also look good, but the shape and proportions have to be correct. This usually means creating the vents from scratch which is rarely what people do, because it's more effort than cutting and pasting from another hood.

I looked up that company, and so far the only thing close I have been able to find is a UK company, that doesn't list it. Now it could just be that they no longer provide this part, but I'm hoping that's not the case.

That looks to be the air dam I'm looking for from your pictures. I'm hoping that there is a name on it. If you ever consider selling it, let me know. I hear ya about school, I have a test in the morning I need to study for...

Did you get a chance to look at the air dam? If you could post some pictures of it too, to verify it's the same that would be great.

How about, oh I dunno, MSA? http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/CTGY/classic02n01 http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/CTGY/classic02n02

LOL! Who'd've thought that? If I knew who made it or what search words to use I'd keep my eye on Ebay, and maybe even make an account to get one.

Well, if you ever want to sell it, let me know... lol

Just for reference I added a turbo to my N/A L28, and beat on it like I hate it. With tuning I've ran as much as 20 PSIG of boost on it, usually I run it at around 17, since I haven't had time to really fine tune for the 20 PSIG. I didn't use an MS though, I'm running a different ECM, that I feel is better for a few reasons, cheaper, on board diagnostics, easy to find, and can be tuned in real time with the right equipment or tuned by chip swapping, for less money. I use a Delco ECM (GM) From a turbo Sunbird, that uses custom code. I have also ran an ECM from a '87 to '89 F-body/Vette with Australian code that converts it to speed density and some other really cool features. In your situation I'd decide on an EFI system, install it and get used to it. You can then add the turbo bits or swap the entire L28ET into the car. Both ways will work.

I've been trying to find out more information on this air dam, who made it, if it's still available, even if somebody is looking to sell one. So far I've come up empty on many different avenues of searching. Alternatively, maybe borrow one to make a mold from... Anyway it's this air dam here: The screen cap is from this video: http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=LEyhyt-h6Qo Another picture of the car: Here are some pictures of the same type of air dam on a car at our recent (August) local Zfest: I am getting the same story from everybody that I have talked to that has this on their car: "It came with the car and I have no idea who made it" So someone out there has to know where this air dam came from, and hopefully where to get one from.

Might I make a suggestion too? Don't assume you know how someone has their mirrors set or how they use them. Even if I had 360* vision around my car without looking backwards, I would still shoulder check. I've had mirrors lie to me about where another vehicle is relative to my position. It looked like they were not as close as they were. I also have quite the trucker neck when it comes to my mirrors, so I generally know where everyone is around me, without the shoulder check, but always do anyway.

Mirrors? Eff that Shoulder check, that's the only way to know. I've never found a mirror or combination of mirrors that I was comfortable with that I felt I didn't need to also shoulder check when changing lanes.

I have an open element GM MAT sensor installed in the location of the cold start injector. My intake temps change very quickly with throttle changes, so I can't see how there could be any heat soak issues with this sensor, or location. Pre intercooler, my intake temps always stayed above 100*F, and would heat up from there due to heat created from compressing the air. After adding my intercooler, which seems to be quite effecient, my intake temps regularly drop down to the low 90's high 80's with quick blips of the throttle, a littel lower if I stay into the pedal a little longer. Many times I get very close to ambient.

"My Z31 BMC install was..." The two master cylinders look to be very similar.

My Z31 BMC install was similar. I just cut down the top stud and slotted the two mounting holes in the BMC to get it to bolt to the booster. Unfortunatly, I'm missing something to make it work, because the braking did not work well. Similar symptoms to missing the reaction disc, but it was there, well the thinner reaction disc that I made. So I need to look into it a bit more. I'm using Z31 front and rear calipers, along with rotors.

If you have 280Z stub axles you can use 280ZX nuts for them, which don't require the peening over to lock them in. You might try a Nissan dealer for them. How bad are the old ones? They might work for a project I'm working on. The threads are not really a concern.

That will only hold true for one particular spring. Wire diameter, coil diameter, number of active coils, and a couple other variables all play a roll in spring rate.

Another Ontario member. Have you been on the Ontario Z Car site? (www.ontariozcar.com) When are you planning to have it completed, or at least drivable? The OZC Z fest is in August, this year it going to be in the Niagara region. THe car looks to have been a good score, looks quite solid.

You can calculate the change in spring rate when cutting coils. There is a formula for spring rate based on measurements of the spring itself.

For future reference the best way to remove the stub axles is by the use of a slide hammer.

If they are held on with two sided type tape, you can use the technique I use. I use some fishing line, 15 lbs test IIRC, and use it to cut through the tape in a sawing motion. It leaves some of the tape on the panel, that can then be removed using some mild solvent and rags.