Six_Shooter

Just an FYI, the '72 and '73 dashes are also different from each other, related to the Hazard switch, and indent for the on/off indication plate. The '72 has it, the '73 does not.

That started off looking pretty bad, but turned out well. What I find when I encounter original metal that doesn't seem to hold up well to trying to weld a piece of new metal to it is that it usually also needs to be cut out, unless you're just trying to weld together two very different thicknesses of metal. Many time more metal will need to be cut out than you think, or even would like to, to get back to a good solid piece of metal to weld the new material to.

Or the "old cranky dipshits" could learn some patience and help people better their understanding of some automotive fundamentals. In your example, that seems to have caused you to start this thread, not everyone understands wheel offsets, or how to measure them. What better way to find out what fits than to ask people who have, or may have used a same or similar sized wheel from the same manufacturer, or similarly constructed. Some people that DO have "advanced knowledge" of automotive systems are not experts on all automotive systems, and will need to ask questions. If there was no need to ask questions, then there would be no need for forums. What is so hard about simply clicking the back button, and move on to a topic more to your liking?

Flipping the cages in my axles worked flawlessly. I'm still trying to wrap my head around the idea of the axle binding at ANY point in the suspension travel, when the tires are on the road. It has been stated that the shortest distance between the companion flange and the diff, is at full droop, and that this distance only increases as the suspension compresses, so where does this "bind" come from? I've been running stock turbo Z31 axles in my '73 240Z with home made companion flange adapters for a few years now, without issue. Flipping the cages, and trimming the end of the axle shaft itself, allowed me to install the axles without issue. I did actually get the driver side in, without flipping the cages, but was tight to do so, it was only when I went to install the passenger side that I found out that the cages needed to be flipped. The hardest part is getting the passenger side axle in and out, since that is the tightest side, when the suspension is at full droop. Also on mine, that seems to be the side that got the companion flange adapter that fits more snug on the outer CV locating ring, so I need to use a little more persuasion if I ever need to remove it.

Yeah, I didn't pay that much for mine, around $450 CDN IIRC, off the MAC truck. Funny you mention making small bulbs for rubber hose, I've always used the beginning of a double flare for that, manual or hydraulic flaring tool.

I haven't used the one you linked to, so I can't comment on it, but I do own and use one of these (sold under the MAC name brand though); http://www.eastwood.com/universal-hydraulic-flaring-kit.html It's the best flaring tool I have ever used, and is one of the few that will do the special Ford and GM fuel injection style flares (Something I do every so often). The hydraulic aspect to it really saves the forearms and cuts down on the time needed to make a good flare. You can also use it in hard t reach areas, while the line is attached to the vehicle, when doing repairs.

I also suggest learning to flare the line yourself. You'll likely find that even if you buy pre-flared lines, that at some point you will need to cut a line shorter to fit, which will require a flare, or one of the supplied flares isn't right and leaks, requiring you to re-flare the line. Also piecing together shorter pre-fared lines can not only get expensive, due to the need for multiple couplers, but also has more potential for leaks, that using a roll of tubing and flaring each end at the correct length. Don't forget about a good quality tube bender as well, it makes for nice radiused bends, and some small line doesn't like to bend nicely without the use of a bender.

I have a couple of the 4 speed shifter levers and a 5 speed shifter lever, if you're still looking.

Honestly, I prefer the look of the wheel forward in the wheel well. I've seen a few with centered rear wheels, and it just doesn't look right. FWIW, I consider myself pretty OCD, but some things don't need "correction". There is also a change in weight distribution when you move an axle forward or rearward, though the small change incurred in this case, may not have that great of an effect.

It would work just fine. The only reason any build book tells you to use a micrometer to set TDC, is to make sure it's TDC, and not a degree or two off of TDC. Lining up the timing marks should take care of any amount that the timing is off, since it's a set measured distance of the timing chain, between the marks of the crank gear and the cam gear.

You're thinking about that runner length a little too much in relation to the throttle body. You're going to use a stock (style) EFI intake manifold, correct? If so, the runners that have an effect on the torque curve will still be the same length as stock, about 7.5" long each, including the port in the head. Look into the Helmholtz Resonance (and there's another property people sometimes cite, but is not coming to me right now). The air chamber of the plenum has an effect on how the resonance in the runners work, not the distance to the throttle body. Another way to look at it, is ITBs, or triples that are so popular, the throttle plate is right near the head, but the runner length is measured out to the end of the "air horn." In theory, when the throttle is all the way open, the throttle plate should have no effect on the air flow. In reality, there is slight turbulence around the throttle plate and shaft. Back to the problem at hand, it is recommended to keep the throttle body at the intake manifold plenum, when an intercooler is being used. There are a few reasons for this, throttle response will be increased, both when opening and closing the the throttle. There will be a large volume of air between the supercharger inlet, and the intake valve. If this is behind a throttle plate, it will be under vacuum when not at WOT, and will take more time to become pressurized, than if it was already at atmospheric pressure, it will also take longer for the engine to exhaust the volume of air, when the throttle is snapped shut, causing a slow rev down to happen. There is also the issue that there are couplers between the super, the IC and the IC to the intake manifold. These can, blow off, or tear, or just simply fail, especially when they get a bit older. If this happens, you have ZERO throttle control, and the engine will rev as high as it can, it takes very little throttle opening to rev an engine when not under load. It is for this reason alone, I would place the throttle body at the intake manifold plenum inlet. I've thought about using a pre-compressor throttle body, there are reasons to do this, one being that it eliminates the need for a blow off valve, but only when a conventional air to air intercooler is not used.

If you like, I can start keeping track, I see many deleted photos, that I may or may not have seen before they were deleted, then I see you replying to specific posts, that have oversized pictures and they are still there, because they seem to be of interest to you. Or some pictures are left, and then other over sized pictures in the same thread are left alone. How about this, instead of just simply deleting the pictures, why not PM the person that posted them, to have them reduce the size of pictures? I don't see what the issue is anyway, the pictures get reduced to almost thumbnail size, and if there is a picture that is larger than one's screen, all you need to do is hold Ctrl+ the "+" or "-" buttons to increase or reduce the size of the pictures. Or open the picture in a browser window where it will be automatically reduced (In Windows using Internet Explorer or Chrome at least). It's more annoying to me, and I'm sure others to not be able to view a picture at all, because it's been needlessly deleted, than to open a very large picture, and use short cuts (or even the "long way") to reduce the size. Anyway, I'm more interested in looking at more Z cars, as long as the pictures aren't deleted, than discussing this. Bring on more Z car pictures.

There seems to be a lot of needless photo deleting happening, some seemingly selective... Looks good, are you using the fog lights for signals or, do I spot some very darkend 240Z signal lights?

I found it easier to swap just the pedals, than remove or partially remove the dash to swap pedal boxes.

This is what I'm finding, though I have the later ZX trans, which I think has a taller 1st gear, so it's only almost useless. lol I have a 3.54 to go back in, once I get the modifications to the axles done that I need to do. I had an R180 3.54 previously and prefered that gear.

Spacer between the hub and the rotor is needed. Not that I'm aware of, I had to reduce the diameter of my Z31 rotors, to use the Maxima brackets, and Z31 caliper hangers, along with the 280ZX calipers. The Z31 caliper hangers move the caliper away from the center of the wheel, compared to the 280ZX caliper hanger.

You will likely also have to trim the shifter opening. I had to open up my shifter opening at the front of the hole. I did post pics back when I did it, but I think they were on a server that is now no longer running. The clutch pedal should bolt into your existing pedal box, though I have seen a couple different pedal boxes that caused there to be difficulty in swapping just the pedal between them, due to alignment with the clutch master being off, when using the wrong pedal with the wrong pedal box. Also the auto cars used a neutral safety relay mounted to the firewall above the starter, well my '73 did, I simply bypassed this, by running a jumper between a pair of pins, sorry, I don't recall which pins. I later added a floor mounted neutral safety switch because I prefer to have one. In stock form, manual S30s did not have a neutral safety circuit. The reverse light wiring plugs into the manual trans light circuit. Other than that, you pretty much have it.

You should be able to get that tube up another inch and a half or so, and be almost level with the bottom of the diff. I'm not sure an oval pipe would make any difference in that area, due to limited width of space between the control arm retainer and the diff. Cutting off the little protrusion from the diff, as already suggested, could gain you a little width.

Non-turbo dizzys are easy to find, I have 3 of them, that I'm not using, I'm sure someone would trade you their non-turbo dizzy for your turbo dizzy. It sounds like a non-turbo dizzy would make things much easier for you. Are you trying to control timing with this ECM, or just feed it a trigger signal?

Why wouldn't you just replace the mustache bar, with one that would be designed to mount the diff is the right position?

Why do you want to keep the turbo dizzy? The only reason I'd want a turbo dizzy is if I was using stock turbo electronics.

This is kinda funny, I have an S30 (obvious that I would own a Z car being on the site), and my Girlfriend has a '65 Mustang as well, that we are in the beginning stages of starting a build on. You may want to consider something like this for the shifter: http://www.mustangsplus.com/tech/speedshifter/index.html

You'll have the same clearance between the wheel and the spring perch on the ground as you do now, a tire will exhibit a similar property, the difference being while driving and especially while driving around corners, where the tread of the tire will actually shift slightly to each side of the wheel relative to the axle. Lower profile tires have less of this effect than taller profile tires, which is why people will generally use lower profile tires in a vehicle that has to corner well. So the real question is how much sidewall flex will teh tires you will be using have?

x2, so nice.

Actually, I clearanced my exhaust by using a hammer and creating a divot in the tube. It did clear before that, but was close enough that on engine shut down, and sometimes start up it would tap against the diff.