Six_Shooter

2.5" should have no problem being tucked up and have lots of ground clearance, even on a very lowered car. I have 3" on mine with a mild drop, and it's no lower than where the stock exhaust was for ground clearance, because I tucked it real tight against the diff. Before lowering:

Thanks akeboshi, what you sent me helps, but not quite what I'm looking for. I may be able to use of that though. Does anyone else have what I'm looking for?

This is the first time I've had any serious positive feedback on them, that I can recall, thanks for that. I think many people haven't tried this because it makes going back to stock or stock type brakes impossible, without also replacing the strut. I've been running this set-up for a little over a year, and works well, it just seems that my brake master may be a tad undersized. Yes, using the Toyota caliper requires the rotor spacer.

Both statements are almost correct. The Z31 hub moves the flat surface the wheel resides against out 3/8" of an each either side (3/4" total track width increase), AND a spacer is required for the rotors to install the Z31 front hubs in the conventional way. The reason I say "conventional way" is because I did not follow the directions that you will find most commonly for this swap. Most commonly, the Z31 hub s swapped onto the S30 strut, using a spacer for the rotor, to move the rotor inward, to have the rotor itself line up with a vented Toyota 4x4 caliper. I did mine differently, in that I also used the Z31 caliper, and made an adapter to hold the Z31 caliper, that also negated teh requirement to space the rotor behind the hub. The rear needed to be drilled. A couple pictures of my swap:

Anyone? What about drawings of other adapters, that I could use for the RS5R30A key points, and change for my own engine?

If you decide to Autotragic, take a look at the GM 4L80E, yes it's an electronic trans, but there are controllers available for them, from OEM controllers, to Megasquirt with trans code to aftermarket controllers. It is a very strong trans, that will take a beating. A friend of mine has a '71 Cutlass, that weighs over 4600lbs with him and half a tank of fuel, that makes over 600 ft/lbs in it's current configuration, and he is not easy on the car, it sees many hard miles every year, usually in the 10 to 15 thousand range, if not more. Running a lighter car, even with more torque input will be a little easier on the trans, so it will have an easier time standing up. For myself, I'm planning to run an RS5R30A, which is an early '90s 300ZX (Z32) 5-speed manual trans, since many stories claim they are extremely strong and can handle many hundreds of HP and ft/lbs of torque. I'm planning to use it in my S30, that should weigh around 2500 to 2600 lbs when it's done. To be honest though, if I was building a straight line only car, especially if it was going to be a class specific car, I would go Autotragic, especially where a turbocharger is involved. You can put a load on the engine on the line, bringing in boost, before launch, without the use of spool up devices that are hard on the exhaust valves, and the Autotragic in many cases will provide much quicker shifts than most people shifting manual tansmissions.

After doing some of my own research about Wikipedia, I will use and trust most any Wikipedia page, and the links or sources linked from those pages.

Alternatively, if someone has dimensional drawings of a VG30DETT (or block that has the same bellhousing pattern) that would work as well. I'm not going to spill the beans just yet, I will say that it is a domestic V6. I'd like to at least have the block bolted to the trans and maybe even bolted into the car before sharing the project.

Does anyone have the '90 to '92 Z32 trans (RS5R30A) dimensional drawings handy? I picked one of these trans up today, and will need to build an adapter plate to mate it to my engine, it would be nice if there were some dimensional drawings for the bellhousing already available, so that it could give me a good start on getting the center lines lined up, and bolted together. ...And no, there are no ready made adapter plates for the engine I will be using this trans with, so that is not an option.

There are at least 3 different pedal boxes. The only years I can verify are that the '71 has a different clutch pedal layout, where the master cylinder rod connects to an arm that is attached to the side of the pedal arm, later set-ups the master rod attaches directly to, or around the pedal arm. This causes a difference in ability to swap clutch pedal arms. Also the brake booster mounting spacing is tighter on this one than later pedal boxes. '73 has a different clutch pedal layout, as I mentioned above, which also moves the clutch pedal slightly to the left. The Brake booster spacing is also wider on the '73. The '74 260 pedal box is very similar to the '73 pedal box, but has one very important difference, in that the steering column mount changed. Earlier steering columns used 4 bolts to attach the steering column to the pedal box, where as in '74, this changed to a two bolt configuration. This change also caused the pedal box to grow longer than previous years. I can't verify when the change between the '71 and '73 happened, could have been in '72, or it could have been in '73, I have not had a '72 apart to verify how the pedal box is laid out. I can only verify the change between '73 and '74, as a definite year change. I have had all 3 of these pedal boxes in hand at the same time to verify the differences.

Actually no... He had more into his car, according to him, than the 260Z shown in the first post in this thread, and his starting price was also more than what went into the 260Z in question. http://teamspeed.com/forums/automobiles/48701-fs-1972-datsun-240z.html

With that air dam, you should run a bumper, the 240Z bumper ('71 to '73 anyway) have provisions for mounting a plate hanging from the bumper, which would work well with the urethane type 1 air dam.

I've been using an SLC_DIY (V1) from 14point7 for over 2 years now, the one I use, is in my tuning bag, that I use on other people's cars, I already had an Innovate LC-1 installing my car, so I have kept using it for now, but plan to eventually swap it with another 14point7 product, most likely an SLC_DIY V2, since I have datalogging capabilities through my ECM. The iDash has piqued my interest though. Alan is always responsive and stands behind his products. I picked my SLC_DIY (V1) up directly from him, since I don't live too far away. The SLC_DIY V1 was an assemble yourself deal, soldering about 100 components to the board, which took about 4 hours, and loved every minute of it. It has been an extremely reliable product, and prefer it over my LC-1, by a long shot.

I usually find the same.. Common replies: "This has been discussed many times over..." "Do a search..." "Have you searched?" The problem is, when you do a search you usually find hundreds of threads (no exaggeration) that are mostly filled with the above quotes, occasionally there is some information posted within the threads, usually missing a lot of detail though. That being said, this thread is starting down that same path. ------------------------------------------------------------- Back on topic: While I will say that you do need to do some research, I will point you in the direction of finding out more details about the actual engine you currently have, or for that matter any that you will be looking at, based on the properties of each, from the casting numbers, the strengths and weaknesses of different casting and then make a decision from there based on what you find out. Many people prefer the later blocks and heads, you will see the casting numbers of "F54" and "P90" come up frequently for engine builds, especially when using a turbo. This does not mean that these parts are the only ones to use, but are a majority preference. There have been many turbo Nissan L-series I6s over the years that do not use these specific parts and work just fine. I've added turbochargers to previously naturally aspirated engines with great success over the years, including an N/A L28, that just happened to be an F54/P90 combo. I recently discovered that the head gasket has developed an issue, so I will be moving forward with plans for this car, and removing the L28, selling off all the good parts, even the engine which should be fine, since it still runs, just coolant gets into the #6 cylinder. I also abused my L28 beyond how most people would, so I'm surprised that it lasted as long as it did, without any greater issues. The L-series is quite robust, just make sure you have a good way to tune the fuel and spark delivery, for maximum enjoyment and potential. Also take a look at the cooling modification for the #5 and #6 cylinders, I didn't do this, since I knew I would be selling the engine later, and a modified head, might have been a harder sell. I also didn't plan to have it in the car as long as I have. I would recommend doing it, especially if you plan to run the engine beyond factory boost/power levels. I will also say that there are a number of avenues to follow to turbocharge an L-series. Personally, the only bonafide turbo L-series parts I used were the exhaust manifold and the cam cover, all other parts were N/A counterparts, like the intake manifold, or parts from other vehicles. Other people prefer to use all of the original turbo parts, which is fine as well, depending on your end goals, and how comfortable you are with the mechanics, and electronics of such a swap.

I'm not, and I've had/built several turbo vehicles, love every minute of them.

ROFL... Even if I did a VQ35, there would be a minimum of 1 turbo installed along with it. I love the ability of turbo engines to make large power and still sip the fuel when not in boost.

Well, the I6 era for this car ended last night. I've had a slight issue the last couple of weeks that when I would hit high boost and high RPM, it would seem like the ignition signal would go all wonky and act like I hit a fuel cut limiter. Tried changing a few things, lowered the boost level, as a temporary solution. Changed another part last night, to try and solve the issue, went for a short drive to a local hang out spot, problem not solved, when I went to leave the engine turned about half a turn, stopped, then turned over normally, and started to run, only it ran like the fuel rail was heat soaked, but looking at the AFRs they were fine, then a cloud rolled past my window... Awww man... It was white, and when I revved it a couple times water or coolant came out of the exhaust and landed on the asphalt. Well that solves the mystery, headgasket. So I dropped the car off at home, and went for a lap in my friend's car, came home, and pulled the plugs. #6 was wet, the rest were perfect. Oh well, time for a new engine. So I'll be selling off all of my I6 parts, anyone interested? That includes the turbo cam cover and turbo exhaust manifold, modified intake manifold, which is smoothed and modified for 14mm O-ring injectors, including the fuel rail. Now I just need to decide to do the big build up, since I start college tomorrow, or just put one of my V6s together and get one of them in for next year, if I can find a way to afford to drive it.

Regardless if he's piled a car up or not, that doesn't mean that I would want to be on the same track as him. Not nearly as much as you have, but again, that doesn't mean that I can't look at how someone else drives and know that I wouldn't be comfortable being on the same track as them, hell there's people I do that with when I'm driving on public streets. I forgot to mention in my last reply, you can just barely catch him using the brakes, using heel 'n' toe, there's one corner where you can see it pretty clearly as he comes into a corner.

I wouldn't want to be a on track with him. You can see him forcing other drivers out of their lines and passing recklessly on the grass, at least 2 wheels on the grass.

Press and hold "ctrl" then use the scroll wheel on your mouse to reduce the size, great little trick for zooming in and out of pictures. It looks very much like a Type1/Xenon air dam, but doesn't replace the original valence. Personally, I would get the type 1 air dam, because it looks better at the side, without that seam.

Yeah, I'm confused as well.

That's dedication, take the door off for a picture... LOL.

I can't say on an S30 hood, but I did make a custom hood for my 1985 Skyhawk, and the weight of the stock hood was 34 lbs IIRC, and the fibreglass one was 17 or 19 lbs. Done right a fibreglass hood can be very stiff, and light.

That's how I plan to do mine, ditching the frame, which I already have actually, and just have the main components left over.