Six_Shooter

Much better choice of colour.

Those wheels seem to look good with any colour and any body modifications (I.E. Flare or no flare...) The orangey yellow is a unique and nice choice.

If you had comprehended what I said, you'd see I'm not flaming him, but jabbing others that don't think a lowered car can be functional. I've seen his build thread, and want to see how it develops along.

Slide the stand head out of the base, place the block with the stand head in the vehicle, then remove the stand head from the block. You would need a rather strong friend to hold the block on their own while you removed the bolts. Setting the engine on a surface to remove the stand head is much safer way of doing it.

I wouldn't buy it, only because I have no desire to own a Vella Rosa. The price sounds pretty good though.

Wow, it's been 22 hours and no one has yet commented on how it won't be functional, due solely to the desired ride hight... BTW, are you planning to narrow the rear end any, or just use wide flares?

Now that's revving it!!

Is the AFM adjusted properly? Idle switch (Throttle position switch) adjusted properly? Coolant sensor within spec?

I haven't installed a solenoid in an S30, but there's enough space. (I've been into these doors quite a bit and the solenoids I've used will fit, it will need careful planning, but they'll fit there.

When I install poppers I ALWAYS make it so that the popper is attached to the lever that used to be attached to the outside handle. I have found on every vehicle I've done this with, that this lever takes less linear motion, and usually less effort than attaching to the inner door handle. The other reason I do it that way, is because using that level won't actuate the inner door handle when you pop the door open, which to me looks cheesy. To do this, in just about every case, I have had to mount the actuator at the rear of the door, facing up. Sometimes, depending on the latch I will bolt it through the door skin, people rarely notice a properly selected bolt that looks like a factory bolt is extra. My preferred method is to weld a bracket to the latch itself that will support the actuator. This has a couple benefits, the latch can be tested on the bench, and you can also set the cable length, on the bench, no trying to work inside the door to adjust the cable length. There is also the advantage of the cable length being shorter in most cases, that will help reduce the amount of cable stretch that happens over time.

It looks less ugly sitting on the engine, the bench clutter doesn't help. Yep, basically. The rear bbls on this one are actually bored out 454 TBI, and the front were 5.7L IIRC. This is throttle body number 7 I believe, the first one that has the fueling feed layout that it does, the previous ones used a series system, where the feed went into the rear pod, out from there into the front pod, and from there out to return. The rear fuel pressure regulator was bypassed essentially, and used more of an accumulator than a regulator, the front regulator actually did the job of regulating the fuel pressure. The new TB, uses an aftermarket regulator, and feeds fuel to each pod, through the 4 tubes, so 2 feed tubes for each pod. It works well. Sorry for the hyjack, back to the topic at hand of other throttle bodies. So are you only looking for throttle bodies, as basically "air valves", no fuel or other control requirements? If that's the case, take a look at some of the Ford 4 cyl stuff. I know around here there was a 1.8L in the '90s Escort that had a small TB, with a 4 bolt pattern that may work. In the end, I think you'll be making an adapter plate for whatever TB you decide to use. I guess another option would be to modify an SU carb, and get rid of all of the fuel stuff, using it as just an air valve.

I agree. Here is something I wrote on a different website yesterday after watching it, though edited a part for correction... I have to say, I disagree. While there were many things that I liked about it, like the jump over the top of the hill, the helmet cam as he went through the uphill snake, and the part where he hit the top of that one hill sideways, and kept turning the air, were all great, maybe borderline spectacular, the rest just didn't have that great of a flow to it. My favorite is still Gymkhana 1, it was raw, and just about stunting. Gymkhana 2, was ok, it had some great stunts, close to the edge of the piers, but was too produced. Gymkhana 3, was almost on the same level as Gymkhana 1, because it was mostly about stunts done in new ways, or at least at new angles. Gymkhana 4, was neat because of the location, but some of the after produced special effects kinda ruined it. I did like the gorilla on the ladder part, true stunting right there, where timing is everything. I'm finding with Gymkhana 5, there's just too much in "re-cap" of the stunts. Like when he jumped the top of the hill, from one side to the other, they re-capped it 6 times, taking up an additional 22 seconds of video time, on that one stunt alone, even the first time I watched it, I was like: "Ok, enough with the re-caps" after about the 3rd time. A much better way to do it would have been like 2 or 3 of the best angles, and then added the rest to the end credits, or a video of additional footage. I bet if you took out all of the re-caps the actual driving portion would be about half of what it is. I was expecting much better use of the San Francisco Bay Bridge bridge. I mean they shut it down for this, and all he did was drive across it? Yeah in the credits, they show him doing some donuts on it, but in the main driving portion, there was just straight line driving. There should have been a switch up, chicane, double pylons to slide around or guy in a Godzilla costume on a skateboard that Ken jumps over, or something. I was just very disappointed with the poor use of the bridge. The part with Pastrana, was yawn inducing, more donuts around someone moving, yeah he did a stoppy and slow speed wheelie, but come on, Travis Pastrana has MUCH more talent than that, have them jump over each other or something, race through the streets, both drifting around corners to the end of the course, maybe have Pastrana take "short cuts" that time perfectly with him jumping over Ken as they go up the the hill to the finish line. No, it's not "sick", it's just a few minutes of driving that doesn't even equal what he's done in previous videos.

I have to say... not terrible... I can't decide if I like or I don't. I like aspects of the look, but maybe something is just missing to complete the look, I can't decide. I'd like to see how that (taillight) swap turns out.

Yeah, you can buy a finished running S30 with an RB (maybe not 26dett), for less. It sounds like he really doesn't want to sell it.

That's just an aftermarket 4 bbl TB, many companies produce them, such as F.A.S.T. and Holley. Here's a real 4 BBL TBI... This is on a friend's car, that I tune. This unit flows over 1100 CFM dry!

Even the Porsche pull looks cheap and "unfinished" to me, it's just a design element that I've never liked and can't see ever liking in any execution. Actual arm rest or molded door pull looks much more thought out and finished to me. Like the door pull on the passenger door of an (early) S30, is far and away above a soft looped door pull in aesthetics and finished look.

Please define "Typical GM sensor" GM uses both the open element and the closed element MAT sensors, so which are you using?

Sorry, I didn't notice that you were in Australia. You might have some luck with ideas about some EFI components, from www.delcohacking.net, they are based in Australia, and know what parts come on what vehicles.

The front air dam bolts to the bottom of the headlight buckets, in place of the original valence. If you have a new kit, you will likely need to drill holes.

I thought about it as well, but decided to add the turbo sooner than originally planned, and went right to a port set-up using an N47 intake. You could using single bbl TBs from mid to late '80s GM vehicles, most commonly found in FWD cars, and usually on 4 cyls. If you really wanted to, and found a set cheap enough, the Crossfire set-up from the '82 and '83 F-body and '82 and '84 Corvette used two single BBL TBs. While I haven't tried it personally, it has been said by a couple knowledgeable people on the subject that they can be mounted sideways, so mounting them to the SU intake should be pretty straight forward. Another option, would be to use the more commonly available 2 BBL TBI from many GM vehicles, most commonly on '88 to '94 GM trucks. You would have to build some sort of plenum to mount the TB onto and then connect to the runners of the SU intake. The issue I see here is that 90* turn at the entry into each intake runner set. As far as controlling the set-up goes, MegaSquirt could be used, or my favorite is to use GM (Delco ) ECMs in swaps, easy to come by, easily tunable, reliable, and inexpensive.

Yes, I have Borg Warner turbo from a 6.5L diesel installed currently. Before I installed the IC, I noticed intake temps would peak out at about 180* F @ 9 PSIG (I think I saw 190* F once!). I'd let off at that point, that was quite warm enough for me. After installing the IC, as long as I don't let the IC get heat soaked, the intake temps will stay below 100* F, usually within a few degrees of ambient temps. My IC is home made from two Ford Turbo Coupe cores, and custom tanks.

Some nice greens in here.

What kind of IAT sensor are you using? The closed GM style sensors had this problem, since the intake it was threaded into would transfer the heat to the outside of the sensor, creating false readings. Usually the rate of change seems to be slower than what your logs show though. Open element sensors are much better at detecting actual intake air temp, since the element itself is open to the air. I think this depends greatly on the Intercooler system. I know in my case, the intake temps will drop from steady state cruise when getting into boost, and then usually stay there, maybe raise a few degrees over a run.

That most likely is the problem. The '78 doesn't use a current triggered tach, like the '70 to '73 does, so you shouldn't need or want to bridge anything at the tach connector.

Seems "cheap" to me, like someone couldn't design a proper door pull, or didn't want to fix a broken one properly. It would be very simple to do, probably take a about 5 minutes in total to make and install a strap for both sides. The anchor point could be one of the existing arm rest screw holes.