Six_Shooter

Not feeling those mirrors. I like them as a concept, they just don't suit the S30 IMO. Car looks great though.

Start with the specs: N/A L28 (flat top pistons) ZXT exhaust manifold Borg Warner turbo from a 6.5L Diesel found in mid to late '90s GM trucks Originally, the 2.5" piping was routed under the oil pan, up beside the engine, through the rad support (passenger side) and then back in the through the rad support on the driver side to the TB. (Planned on intercooler from the start. Added an intercooler that I made from two Ford Turbo Coupe intercooler cores. When my turbo L28 was non-intercooled, and the air filter was attached to turbo directly, I was seeing upwards of 180* intake temps at 10 PSIG. I then moved my air filter down and forward of the turbo with a short pipe and saw my intake temps drop about 10* I then moved my filter out in front of the rad and saw my intake temps drop about 20*. After adding the intercooler (with the air filter back inside the engine bay due to replacing the 240 rad with a 280 rad and interfering with my intake tube), my intake temps dropped to being within 5* of ambient, if not within a degree of ambient, at boost pressures upwards of 20 PSIG. The only issue I experience is after sitting in the staging lanes at the track when it's busy and the intercooler gets heat soaked. The intercooler piping is very close to being the same as I described above, with the changes being to install the intercooler itself. I have since moved the filter in front of the rad again. My cruise temps seemed to drop 10 to 20* after moving the filter. Some pics for reference: Just after the turbo and EFI install: http://www.ontariozcar.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=3374&d=1362872176 Intercooler: http://www.ontariozcar.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=3272&d=1361332524 Intake: http://www.ontariozcar.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=3235&d=1361328906

What do you mean by B/W wire has a constant 12V? Not affected by ignition switch position? If so, this will be a problem. The car will never shut off, if it did start. It's been a while since I had the HEI module in mine running the coil (converted to DIS), but IIRC, I only needed the black white wire, which in my case was an ignition, not a constant. Have you checked voltages at each terminal? With key on and while cranking? Also, I found that I had a hard time starting the car when I had the red and green wires backwards. --==EDIT==-- This might help: http://www.zhome.com/ZCMnL/tech/gmhei.html

That's not true. The actual drop seems to be more than distance between two active coils, most of the time. I have not found a way to calculate the end result of how many coils to cut for a desired amount of lowering, at least not any easy way. It always seems to come down to trial and error.

The problem with comparing rigidity of your new framed trans tunnel and the stock trans tunnel when both are removed from the chassis, is that the original was really part of a much larger structure, including teh floor pans, firewall and rear support to tie everything together and re-enforce other areas. Looks good.

FYI, that interior colour is called "butterscotch". Also the seat covers are custom or aftermarket. They are a slightly different design than factory and are missing the brass vents that would be in the lower back rest. Very similar to my car when I got mine, also a '73, that is brown and had a butterscotch interior. Similar issue with the driver side dog leg as well, though mine was caused by physical damage that then caused it to rust. Still need to fix it... My interior is also black now, which is a lot better than the butter scotch IMO. Yes the RB26DETT has been swapped in these cars several times now. Use that search feature.

The front end is the MSA Type 2 air dam. I don't recognize the flares though.

Just FYI, 240Z lenses are one piece.

I have a couple I am willing to sell. hit me up with PM if you still need one.

Well said.

There are many garages in there that define my dream garage. Also there's a couple of those that have been documented on thegaragejournal.com.

I prefer the second picture, that doesn't have that large ring around the horn button.

Since we're sharing stories... I live in Ontario Canada, and found my '73 in Richland Washington, through the classifieds on this site, back at the end of '07. I flew out to Calgary to meet up with my uncle and we drove from there to see the car. Had it shipped up, and delivered to my work at the time. Worth every cent and minute. If this was to be my only car though, I'm not sure I'd do the same. While my 240 has been extremely reliable, more so than my daily drivers, I wouldn't want it to be my only car.

Here's a guide to the common rust areas: http://zhome.com/Classic/CommonZRust/RustPrevention240Z.htm

That's a European tuner setting IIRC. Odd. As suggested you can try the reset button, but disconnecting power does the same.

That wasn't the cause, it was the loose ground that cause intermittent voltage spikes, that caused it to happen.

Sounds like either the main processor, or the communications chip in the face got fried. If you know of someone else with the same model, you can try swapping faces to find out. Either way, time for a new unit. Yes it could be repaired, but by the time you spend the money on the repair, it would likely be cheaper to buy a new one.

I have an N47 intake, but I believe the PCV is in a similar location. I used a 90* brass elbow, pointed towards the throttle body. I also used a Mitsubishi PCV, sorry I don't recall the application, but it was a turbo application, and had a threaded fitting on one end. If you decide to move the PCV, it is best to remove the intake manifold to assure no cuttings go into the engine. You can see my PCV crankcase end in this picture: http://www.ontariozcar.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=3211&d=1361324060 (The forum wouldn't actually allow me to embed the picture *shrug*)

I've been suggesting this for years. The problem is that even though the majority of membership own cars that are 40+ years old, there is still new technology and ideas being thought of, tried and developed everyday. My car is a prime example, while I have read many threads here and found many ideas, I have not come across anybody who has done some of the things I have done to my car (1973 240Z), so has everything really been discussed over and over again? Nope, not in the slightest. I can see many other's car in the same way, or their ideas. On the flip side, there seems to be a pretty common "recipe" used to modify the S30, and that's fine, those are the topics that can be search for. I think part of the problem is people read a title and expect to find the same old question, and without really reading the post, can sometimes go straight to the "Search yo foo" response. I find it ABSOLUTELY HILARIOUS how the admins and moderators of this site try to make it sound so difficult to keep the site up and running. I'm an admin on other sites along with being a moderator on others. These are for the most part pretty technical sites or subjects as well. It's not difficult at all. To put it another way, it's only difficult if you make it that way. Sure some people will ask a question without searching, it's always going to happen, more FAQs, a Wiki, or reduced posting privileges will NOT keep that from happening. If they aren't searching for the answer to start with, what makes you think they will read an FAQ, or similar post before asking a question? I will reiterate the point of the board's built in search function being quite lacking, though I have been able to find some information through its use. The Google search, while better is not much, when you get results that have the same posts in them, and I'm not talking about the same subject matter, I'm talking about the posts that say "Search you foo!!" That's what I'm doing! :facepalm: Lately I've been finding more information off site, than here. I'm not sure if that's due to more information being found by Google now, or if it's due to how more recent posts are being handled. Maybe it's just due to lack of new posts because people are afraid to ask a question for fear of being ridiculed no matter how thought out the question is. I've seen some pretty technical and thought out questions "shedded" which has me confused. I remember when new posts were every few minutes, now it's every few hours, and even then it's usually lacking any technical knowledge, seeming for fear of being ridiculed, if they are wrong, even on one small tidbit of the info. I come here mostly to see what some of the new members are trying, occasionally what some of the older member's new builds are, and encourage experimentation of people's ideas, where some older members may poo-poo the idea, simply because that's not how they would do it, it may not be how I would do it either. Knowledge can be gained by trying new things, not discouraging them. If I had listened to half the people that have told me not to try the things I have, I wouldn't have 90% of the knowledge I do, or half the cool projects I have built. So while this site may not be "Automotive 101" there has to be some give and take to help people get to the level that this site was created around.

EDIT Wrong sensor... Carry on...

The common repair here seems to be to go to CV shafts.

This is what I do, though I just bought the longest bolts I could an cut the heads off of them. Usually just a pair of guides, one of either side of the bellhousing mating surface is enough.

It would be very easy to make the MSD a plug in system, but I'll leave that alone for now. What I would do in your position is get a later dizzy, from a 260Z or 280Z, even a non turbo 280ZX dizzy can work. These are not points triggered systems, but use actual ignition modules to charge the coil. They offer higher charging current, for hotter spark, and more accurate timig since there are no moving parts that trigger the coil that can bounce or have issues at high RPM like points systems often experience. This swap could be done to be nearly invisible, or invisible, depending on how far you go with hiding the small change in wiring. These links may help: http://www.zhome.com/ZCMnL/tech/ZXPertronix.htm http://www.zhome.com/ZCMnL/tech/ThomasMSD.htm Here are a few dizzies I have: Far left is a 280Z dizzy, 1977 IIRC. Next to it is another 280Z or ZX dizzy. The one with the brown cap is a 260Z dizzy that uses an interior (remote) mounted ignition module The far right I believe is a 280ZX dizzy (non turbo) that has the ignition module mounted right on the dizzy itself. Look at the FSMs for the 260Z and 280Z will show they are connected, along with the above links. Back to the MSD ignition, since you can use the "points" trigger to trigger the MSD box, this can be attached to a simple plug, that when you want to remove the MSD ignition you connect a "shorting" or "bypass" connector in place of it. The other part of that is that the MSD 6, quite possibly the 6AL ignition were available in the '70s and should be considered a "period correct modification". As long as the MSD ignition is considered a period correct modification, you can use the later dizzies that use the remote mounted ignition modules to trigger the MSD ignition through the magnetic trigger connection and simplify installation, without the need for the bypass plug.

For anyone actually interested in compound turbo set-ups, here are some links to some builds: http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/dsm-build-journals/426339-compound-turbo-setup-holset-style.html http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/custom-fabrication/336541-my-compound-turbo-set-up.html http://www.skyroadster.com/forums/f25/lipsticks-800hp-first-lnf-compound-turbo-engine-build-36112/index10.html

I have 225s on mine currently, running a Z31 5 lug front hub and wheels, and have plenty of space to add another cm to tire width if I wanted.