Six_Shooter

Why so much power? With how light the S30 is, not a lot of power is needed, especially in a cruiser/fun run around car. The desires you have are pretty open ended, just about any engine around can produce that kind of power. What are the uses of the car? Racing, boulevard crusing, grocery getter, etc? This could help determine at starting point, for best direction for you to persue.

I recently scrapped a little more than a bare 1973 shell recently, still had the fuel and brake lines, mustache bar, and some other misc. brackets and such, it was right at 660 lbs according to the scale of the place where I dropped it off.

I use Red Tops for any starting battery or quick discharge application. I only use Yellow tops for deep cycle duties

So what's the difference between drifting and power sliding, besides semantics?

I whole heartedly disagree with this statement. I have stock length strut tubes, off the shelf parts and have a stance that I would refer to as "good", maybe even "great," and the ride is also what I would consider "good," much better than when I had the stock springs installed.

I have Eibach springs installed in my '73, the drop was about 1", but the greatest improvement was the ride and the handling. I'll have to attach pics when I'm on a computer. For now here is a link to my build thread, that has pictures before and after in it. http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/101522-six-shooters-cause-of-stress-and-relief

I installed 3/8" fuel line with my EFI/turbo swap, I used the original feed as the return. I upgraded the feed from the tank, but without welding or removing the tank from the car, what I did was replace the drain plug with a 90 degree to flare fitting, 3/8" on both sides. It did require running an NPT tap into the fitting to get a good seal. 3+ years later still great and no starvation issues.

As promised Here are a couple pictures of what I made for my car. The tach was just a cheap one to decide if I liked the idea and the layout, which I didn't in the end. The Autometer NB O2 sensor light gauge was only used because I had it. The quad gauge was pireted from a late '80's Pontiac Sunbird as I previously mentioned. I used the GM sender for it, and since the fuel level sender is almost exactly opposite between the GM and Datsun senders it read backwards, which was not a big deal, just had to remember that full was really empty. LOL. The sender could be flipped upside down and installed to correct this, just never got around to doing that. I may try something similar in thr future, but want to improve on it greatly.

Looking for something different than the same thing that almost everyone else uses is not good, because....?

I made a quad gauge to replace my tach, using a donor gauge set-up from a late '80's Sunbird. I didn't care for it, but better lighting might have helped. It had oil press, water temp, fuel level and voltage. I used a 2 1/16" tach in the middle hole in the trio location, along with boost and AFR gauges. I'll post pictures later.

I'm using a 225mm clutch on my Turbo L28 in my S30, with a 5-speed. I have been for about 3 or 4 years now. I am using a Centerforce Dual Friction clutch. It's been great.

I guarantee you that not "everything" has been done before, even when it comes to body modifications. It's posts like this that push people away from wanting to post about new ideas, or variations on old ones. I don't think the S13 flares as they are would suit an S30, but a similar look probably would. Like taking a ZG flare and extending them farther and more squared off than they are out of the box. Two of my favorite wide® body modifications on the S30 are the Subtle Z kit, because well, it's subtle, but gives it that, "I know there's something different, but can't quite put my finger on it" look, and the YZ kit, because it's just bold, and actually flows extremely well with the original shape of the S30.

I saw those lower gauges and thought I'd found the perfect gauges, but they are too large. Back to making custom gauges...

Is there going to be video of the Laguna Seca runs?

It'll be nice to see it when it's done. What wing is that? I like it.

x2

Just seems pointless to me to have something like that and not use them. :shrug:

It depends on how the boost controller is designed, whether it would use both or one port.

So why didn't you just install the black ones you already had?

I have that, I can't say I noticed any difference from stock bushings, but they were cheap when I got them.

There is still machining involved using the transmission from a 240SX. Something to compare would be the input shaft length, diameter and spline.

Just an update that should have been posted long ago: Tranny is fixed and re-assembled. I swapped both the 1-2 and 3-4 shift forks. The donor 4 speed had steel shift forks, and decided that while I was in this far, might as well swap both. I had to drill out the roll pin holes in the shift forks with a number 10 drill bit (.193"). I looked at swapping the shift shafts, but they are shorter in the 4 speed. Just shifting the tranny on the floor, it feels better than it ever has. I'll see once it's back in the car and driving again.

Man, it was bad to step into this thread, now I want to paint my car. Looks great.

I'm not misinformed, Optima has changed their sales pitch on the Yellow top battery at some point. The Red top was designed as a starting battery. The yellow top was designed as a deep cycle battery. People have used Yellow tops as starting batteries, I'm not sure why anyone would though. In my personal experience and observations, the yellow top fails much more frequently when used as a starting battery, then a Red top does. I have had vehicles that I had to diagnose why the yellow tops were failing, and at the end of it swapped them to a red top without changing anything else and the problem was solved.

When I installed my EFI (not factory Nissan set-up), I installed a 3/8" feed line and used the original 8mm feed line as my return. It has been working great this way for about 3 years.