Six_Shooter

Use a hammer and hit the screw. I will use a screwdriver socket to do this. Yeah, I know you shouldn't hit your sockets, but theres a lot of things we shouldn't do, but we do anyway. Hitting the screw will help dislodge it.

For some of us to buy those "cheap S30s", we would then spend as much or more changing all of the 280Z parts to 240Z parts. I know when I was looking for an S30, I didn't limit myself to a 240 only, but definitely preferred one, and found one, running, needing some TLC for $1500 in '08, right on this site. Shipping the car cost me more than what I paid for the car, but to find a solid S30 up here, I would have had to spend more than what I did WITH shipping.

I would have done that too, except that I have a mid (or forward?) sump on my oil pan. I didn't feel it was important enough to source a rear sump pan.

This is what I did with mine. --==EDIT==-- Old pictures before IC, but I routed the tubing as if there was an FMIC installed: After FMIC installed, I had to change how the tubes were passed through the rad support. : Just a couple pictures of the FMIC as I made it:

From the end of last summer: Painted the fender and air dam, so that they were at least a brown... I also lowered it using Eibach lowering springs.

It would be great if you did make it, I'd love to see it in person.

Where about's in Ontario are you? Have you been on the Ontariozcar forum? I don't think I've seen this car at Zfest.

I'd have bought that ebay car in a heart beat, if I was still looking for a 240Z. The rust issues are less than I have seen on cars where the asking price is the same or more, and most of those parts are readily available.

Went to the drag strip on Friday, got a best of 13.741 @ 105.something. Had 3 other runs at over 106. Then on Saturday, my tranny finally let go. There's been something up with it for a while since it would pop out of second gear when down shifting and engine braking, along with just feeling clunky going into 1st and 2nd gears lately. I pulled the tranny out and took it apart to confirm that there was an issue with the 1-2 shift fork. It had broken away around the shift shaft. The only part that sucks about that is I was supposed to have a lapping day today (Sunday), but since I don't have a spare shift fork, the car won't make it there.

Well, if the rain holds off, I'm supposed to be going to a local drag strip on Friday, and there is supposed to be one of our entourage holding a video camera. Even if the rain doesn't hold off, I'll be at the same track on Sunday to run the road course, I'll see if there is anyway to get video that day.

I don't think I've mentioned it, but I had a boost problem. It seems I probably had this problem longer than I realized. I noticed it earlier this year, when I tried to turn up the boost from 12 PSIG to 15 PSIG, that it stayed at 12 PSIG. Checked a few things over, eventually wired my wastegate closed with some mechanics wire, but the problem still persisted. I knew the mechanics wire wasn't keeping it sealed, but it seemed to hold it almost closed, enough that I figured it would allow boost to build higher than 12 PSIG at high RPM. I had been considering that my couplings between the turbo and TB might be leaking, or the IC was leaking from somewhere, thinking that maybe the turbo really was too big, but then it should have spooled to the 5 PSIG even later. Apparently, it wouldn't and after installing a heavy spring on the wastegate tonight, I pulled out of the driveway at work, then hit the gas in a slightly spirited fashion, I happened to be looking in the direction of my boost gauge, when I saw it spring around to about 12 PSIG and my shift light came on!! It never did that, it just kinda slowly climbed up to that point, and it took a fair amount of time to get the shift light on, even in first gear, this was almost instant. Woo-HA! So I drove around a bit and checked to make sure that was actually the case. Let me tell you 15 PSIG of boost on this 2.8L is a phenomenally fun. THIS was the reason I put the turbo on this car. I was seriously considering my planned engine swap for this winter, even though I didn't really have time for it. I've just been disappointed with the performance of it recently. It was still decently quick, just not that hard hitting surge of power I've been trying to get. Now... OMG, so much fun, hard hitting, slam you into the seat, everything goes to a blur fun...

I got tired of the multi-colour look, so I did something about it for now... Just rattle can, but better than before.

No it doesn't, but the change in ride height certainly does, in relation to the rest of the suspension. Like I said cutting springs will increase the spring rate, and many people over the years have done well with cutting springs. The only difference between cut or shorter static springs and the coil overs is the fact that coil overs are easily adjustable for height, which also changes the corner loading, which many people don't realize. Spring rates can be selected in each design. Coil overs can be set up with many different spring rates, same goes for static height springs. If you think for an instant that just because a coil over sleeve and spring were used, instead of a static spring that the rest of the suspension will be affected any differently, you'll be sorrily mistaken.

Lowering 2" with a static coil and lowering 2" with adjustable coil overs nets the same result. The shock is still down in the body an additional 2". The "additional bumpsteer" I keep hearing about will be there whether adjustable coil overs are used or static coils, again, the net result ins suspension geometry change is the same. Some say that using the "bump steer spacers" (better called camber change restoration spacers" will help. Some say, most won't notice a difference. FWIW, cutting coils off increases the spring rate. I'm currently riding 1" lower than stock height, and haven't noticed any increase in any bumpsteer, probably because Nissan designed the suspension that when it moved to that alignment (being 1" more compressed), that it would still react predictably, and within their design. I may try some spacers to see if there is any benefit since I have been offered a set pretty cheap, but I just can't see the "need" for them, in looking at the over all system. Now back to the regularly scheduled thread.

Next time you need to stretch some cloth for a form fit, try using some fleece. Secure it how ever it needs to be, then pull it taught, and secure it it on the other edge. It works well, when you have some very irregular shapes and need to fill in spans. I use this technique regularly in car audio installations and interior work, for speaker enclosures, amp racks and trim panels.

You need to make sure the piston in the cylinder you are testing is at TDC.

If you look back a couple pages he has an Autometer tach installed.

Love the colour. Looks like a great clean and solid find.

I have a mechanical Sport Comp 2 5/8" water tempo gauge I'd like to sell along with a few others.

I can think of more interesting things to talk about. Nigel, I haven't noticed, but even if it's not easily noticed, I would just have a hard time doing it. When I saw your car last I was looking to intently on the competition scoop to pay attention to the mirrors. I definitely want to sit in your car at ZFest and see what I can... well... see. I've been realy thinking that it may be a safer way to see what's around me.

Has anyone mounted the mirrors symmetrically? I would just have a hard time mounting each side differently like the above diagram.

Looks to be about as accurate as my "BRE" version. lol

LOL, I think it's called "Scramble boost", though that is usually still controlled by a boost controller.

Just to go back to the original discussion for a minute. I have been running the 300ZX axles in my car for over a year. I made my own CV adapters, well my grandfather did, with my input. I purposely made sure they were as thin as possible, due to reading about some axle length issues, the main meat of them are still 3/8" think IIRC. The original companion flanges also had about 1/16" machined off the face of them, this was to create a lip to align the adapters, but it will help add a tiny bit of space, so I mention it. When I first installed the axles, I flipped the cages, but didn't remember or didn't read about grinding the end of the axle, so I had issues getting the passenger side installed. I did it, but it was a chore. I then before lowering the car off the jack stands read about grinding the end of the axle. So out they came. I ground the axle end down to within an 1/8" of the retaining clip groove. I can now install the passenger side axle with ease. In fact I've had it bolted to and removed from the companion flange several times in the last couple months, due to my 5 lug and brake swap, and most recently installing my lowering springs. In each case, I was able to swing it out of the way without any issue. My suspension: Stock control arms Stock upper strut attachment point Tokico blue strut inserts As of last weekend Eibach springs, stock springs before that. R200 from a Z31 280Z R200 mustache bar Original ('73) uprights, front diff crossmember solid front diff mount As far as I know the car has never been in a serious accident. I have no issues with the axle bottoming out. The grease cap had a dent from the first time I installed it and it doesn't appear to have been made any worse while driving it. I don't get any weird handling issues, no clunks, at least non that were not there before I put the axles in. lol I haven't removed the springs to check for bind, but with the earlier info provided, if they fit in at full droop, there will only be more clearance when the car is on the ground, so I am not worried about it in the least. I do need custom length axles in the not too distant future for an LSD swap, though, that is a different thread all together.

Since I lowered it on the weekend, a couple new pics: