Six_Shooter

PM me, and we can work something out. I'll be making another set for a friend of mine soon, it wouldn't really take a whole lot to make another set.

Do they look like these?

The rear I used re-drilled 240Z axles. (Yes I know the 280Z axles have more splines, blah blah blah...) I then retained the Maxima caliper bracket (I had these for the 280ZX disc swap already), used Z31 caliper hangers, 280ZX calipers (which were already on the car from the 280ZX disc swap), and the Z31 rotor which I turned down from 290mm to 280mm. I was going to make a new bracket to move the caliper out that extra 10mm, but I was running out of time to get it together, and turning down the rotor was the quickest solution. I'm still thinking that I'll make new brackets in the winter and run the 290mm discs. I already had the R200 and Z31 CV swap done last year, with some custom made adapters. I need to make another set for a friend of mine.

If you're wanting to convert to 5 Lug, you can use the Z31 hubs and rotors, they slide right on. I also used the Z31 calipers, that required a custom caliper mount, but no rotor spacer.

I wonder if I should make a few sets, when I make the next one...

You would use the 280Z stub axle. It has a higher spline count. I don't recall what the spline count is, it's just more than the 240Z is what I remember. To use the CV axles you will also need adapters for the companion flanges.

Thanks, that had what I needed.

First off, the search function of this site absolutely BLOWS!! I know I have seen a post with in the last couple of days that I'm sure was from a specific member and when I try to search for his posts, "there are no results" Anyway, in a thread, there were some diagrams that showed a few different brake system layouts, ranging from S30 to Z31, and I can't find it now. I'm looking at adapting a different master cylinder to my 240, and wanted to compare OEM plumbing layouts, since I think I can get rid of the brake bias block and the distro-block with the new master. So if anyone can point me to that thread, or provide brake plumbing diagrams for the '73 240Z and the early 300ZX, that would be great.

At the very least I would have a machine shop look at it and suggest a course of action. I know for me, as long as there was no severe damage to the main cap, I would clean it up and re-use it but I do tend to live a little "on the edge" according to some people. lol

Is the main cap also damaged? If it was me, I'd clean up that gouge and check for roundness, then as long as it was still round, I'd likely re-use that block, as long as there wasn't any other significant damage.

Stiffening capcitors used in car audio systems help reduce the "holes" in the voltage supply to the amplifier(s) caused by the transient peaks that is in music. The largest cause for these transient peaks is the bass in music, it draws the largest current when compared to higher frequencies. Stiffening caps should not be used in place of a good charging system, just to augment one. I have a Delco CS130 style alternator on my 240Z (L28E) Mine is built to put out 160 amps max, but the stock units are designed for between 100 and 120 amps, and have good low RPM (some would call this "idle") charge abilities. Mine, since it's built beyond factory specs needs an engine idle RPM of about 900 to be at a charge level I like. I can turn idle down to about 800 and it still charges, just barely. A stock CS130 alternator should have no problems with an engine idle of about 700 RPM, depending on the pulleys you have. My crank pulley is the tiny one found on early 240Zs IIR it's about 5" in diameter. I have a small alternator pulley to get the shaft RPM up. I was going to install a larger 280ZX crank pulley, but it turned out to be cracked, so I didn't and have just left the high idle. A few pictures of mine: Link to more info: http://www.ontariozcar.com/forum/showthread.php?64-Six_Shooter-s-money-pit-time-vampire&p=2289#post2289

I guess I'm one of those odd people... (be quite Nigel! lol) I neither like it, nor hate it..... I want to do something with my hood, but I don't like the common cowl hoods for these cars, because it takes away from that characteristic bulge in the hood, I don't want to just raise the stock bulge, because it then looks too narrow and I don't like how it would just end at the cowl, but I'm not totally sold on the Competition vent, although I do see it's benefits, bit for heat dissipation and possibly for aerodynamics. Hmmm. Can't wait to see it at ZFest Nigel.

Any typical MS install should have no effect on the starter itself. Having no tune loaded to the MS will not effect the starter.

The white wire is the ground side of the circuit, it provides a ground to the bulb when the door is open. The hot side of the dome light is a constant 12V, IIRC it's an orange wire in the EZ wire kit. So to break it down, the hot dome light wire goes directly from the fuse box to the dome light bulb, and the white wire is connected to the door switches. I believe the EZ wire kit has you connect the door switches to the fuse box/central electrical panel, where both dome light wires run from there. At least that's how I recall the EZ wire kit I used in a customer's car was laid out.

Looking forward to the write-up. After this summer here, I'm seriously considering adding A/C to my 240Z.

I had to chuckle when I saw these pictures. I own a 240 (kinda obvious lol), and I just recently got my girlfriend a '65 Mustang. So our stables are very similar. lol Restoration or build on the '67? To keep this post legit: Recent pics with 5 lug swap and Z31 wheels. (from last Sunday) I just completed the 5 lug swap last Sunday Morning at about 2 AM, hours before the annual downtown car show. lol A couple of pictures taken by a friend of mine that runs High Impact Imagery:

dailydrifter. That looks freaking sick! I had my wheel style of choice all picked out for a long while, but after seeing these pictures, I have another style to consider.

I am, yes. Basically, the entire front brake, including the hubs, rotors, calipers and caliper hangers are all off an N/A Z31 300ZX. I just chose to make a caliper mounting bracket and the 300ZX caliper instead of getting a spacer and the vented 4x4 calipers.

Z31 5 lug wheels on my 240Z. I didn't think I would like it, but they are definitely growing on me.

That spacer is partly why I did my 5 lug swap differently, by making a bracket to bolt the Z31 caliper to, and no spacer. It does require cutting off the upper original caliper mount, so there is no going back to stock.

Funny you say that, my Grandmother went skydiving several years ago, her 'chute didn't deploy fully, landed in a corn field, then was in the hospital for a couple months with a compressed spine. I mentioned one of my experiances, though I have had several experiances with swapping to rear disc and in each case braking was improved. My daily driver has had the brakes upgraded all the way around and the braking was much better because of it. Braking was improved the most with just the rear disc, the fronts didn't have as dramatic of an improvement. I love guys like you that attribute all of these common changes to something else that could be on the car, when in most cases those items, such as traction control are not present, and yet most vehicles now come with these advances, such as rear disc, because they are simpler, shed water better than drum, and have better cooling capabilities than most drums would. You also don't need to start from scratch to swap to rear disc, doing some reading on setting up brake bias, through use of rotor diameters and piston diameters might help shed some light on why some systems work better than others. I have several books that go into detail about these variables, leaving those adjustable proportioning valves out of the equasion. I'm not syaing they aren't needed, but in a properly planned system, that may only have a change to one axle, it likely won't be needed. So what if you can lock the brakes with the stock system? That is NOT an indication of braking abilities. A system that has greater braking potential, will give you better ability to modulate the brakes and keep the wheels spinning, while applying a slowing (braking) force. With the wheels locked, you have no diractional control and can slide farther than if the wheels were still able to spin, tire design has a rather large effect on this too. Likely, could, maybe, might, all words that show speculation, without going through the steps to finding out what does and doesn't effect this. I can also say: "Swapping brakes might increase the braking ability of the car." or "Increasing the braking potential will likely improve braking performance." I guess I look at the cup as half full, and find ways to make something work better than it was intended to, instead of trying to discourage people from finding ways of improving of what they use. I agree, happens with more than just brakes, or even with more than just cars, but how many people are really going to remove a completly fresh built braking/starting/turbo/shower/stove/washing/etc. system, just to replace it with something else to see just how effective it is? Most people can also relate the new system, they are using to when the old system was nnew, or even how the new system wears over time compared to the old system. I have had that same member try to tell me he knows more about my car than I do, based on one little fact of my car having a similar braking system to what he had. :facepalm: Funny, how I'm the one that drives it and knows how it performs, and what might or might not need improvement. I agree.

That's for the 6 bolt flange. I believe the CV axle in question is for the 4 bolt flange. I'm doing this same conversion to my '73. I had my Grandfather make the adaptors, and I will weld them to my companion flanges, once I get the truck running and move it out of the way of my TIG welder. lol. I am using the 4 bolt axles.

this piqued my interest, but I didn't find an OBX LSD, on FleaBay or open interweeb. Are we sure they are still available?

On one of my cars (not an S30), I swapped to rear discs, without changing ANYTHING else, and the car stopped quite a bit better. I then swapped to a larger front brake, but didn't see much improvement in braking. So if there is no benefit to swapping to rear disc, why do so many cars now come factory equipped with rear disc brakes? While I agree that some study should be done to ensure that everything is working together, but I have yet to see or talk to anyone that has experianced these "unsafe conditions" or "swap the car end for end", or increase braking distances from a brake swap to something with greater braking potential.

The Mustache bar you need is from a 280Z, not ZX. I believe all 280ZXs had the R200, I haven't seen any information otherwise. I don't believe any of them were LSD though. The 300ZX R200 will also work. The mount on the diff cover is what changes between the 280Z, 280ZX and 300ZX. I have seen some mention of the prop shaft flange being different on some models. I didn't find this to be the case in my swap, but I might have just got lucky on that one. The diff I am using came from an '81 280ZX. The hardest part I found was getting the R200 Mustach bar in, or maybe it was getting the R180 mustache bar out, in any case I had to remove at least part of the rear support brackets for the control arms, so I removed all of it, to clean and paint those parts. The 280ZX R200 should be able to use the original half shafts. IIRC, the 280ZX shafts were identicle to my 240Z shafts.