Six_Shooter

I just posted a similar topic on another site tonight, listening in to this one.

In the third picture, that is a resistor. Don't know why someone would install it though.

I agree that Forza 4 is not that much of a departure from Froza 3, in fact I have go so far as stating that it's Forza 3 with a new menu and some added tracks. I also don't like the changes to the way the Z432 gets it's aero upgrades, I prefered the Forza 3 upgrades in this regard. I'm about level 43 or so, I'm getting kinda bored of it honestly.

That's a '67 Mustang. One easy way to tell, is that the '64.5 to '66 did not have those body coloured insets in the body scoop area in front of the rear wheel well. There could have been chrome trim in that area, but was not set into the body of the '65 and '66, but mounted onto the body, through holes punched or drilled in the sheet metal. The '68 is very similar to the '67, but does not have those same insets. The first 4 and a half years (including the '64.5) all look very similar, but when set side by side the '64.5 to '66 looks quite different than the '67/'68 model years. The latter got larger, with more angles added.

The rear wheel position looks pretty normal to me. These cars have the rear wheels pushed quite far forward in the wheel wells.

Pick up a measuring tape, those Cooper lights are huge. The photoshop above is no where near proportionally correct. The older (early 2000s) Cooper used a smaller light, but it's still too large to fit well with the S30 headligh bucket and body lines.

They only went to 85, so that you could never go back in time. While I don't care for the C4 'Vette cluster, I can see how it could be somewhat easily adapted to the S30 dash, at least the two larger sections. I've been looking at the Defi and Depo gauges as well, I just can't seem to find a company, other than Autometer, that have all of the gauges I want to install in my car in the same look. And I'm trying to replace my Autometers...

The plumbing for a rear mount turbo is no more complicated than a conventional turbo set-up, just longer, and the need for an oil return pump are the only differences. There would be just enough space in the trans tunnel to run the cold side of the turbo plumbing back up front, leave the existing exhaust where it is (along the driver side, if it's a stock or stock like L28 exhaust system), and run the cold pipe along the passenger side of the trans tunnel. Oil lines could be routed along side the cold side tubing as well. That being said, I wouldn't do a rear mount in an S30, unless some obscure rule of some race organization I was running had a rule that would dictate such a thing. Weight distribution would be another reason, but the S30 doesn't really have a problem with this. There is plenty of space under the hood for a turbo, and as said the exhaust manifolds are not that hard to come by. I'll be selling mine at some point in the future as well. If you really couldn't get your hands on a stock turbo manifold, you could adapt the N/A manifold by making a piece that attached to the N/A manifold outlet and routed the exhaust to a turbo. I was going to go this route until I found a turbo manifold from another member on here. There are also other benefits to running a conventional set-up including higher thermal temps of the exhaust itself, which is part of what makes a turbine work, pressure differential is another large part, so a large or free flowing exhaust system is usually a norm with turbo systems as well, less tubing and piping, reducing cost of materials, and no electric oil pump needed to return the oil back to the engine, also reducing cost and slightly reducing complexity. My biggest concern with a rear mount turbo set-up is not the functionality, but that electric oil return pump failing, if that happens, it can cause a lot of problems, including blowing oil past the seals in the turbo, causing the exhaust to become drenched with oil, which could also cause a loss of oil, that would then starve the engine, which could take out your engine.

There are plenty of aftermarket or donor turbos from other vehicles that use internal wastegates, an external gate is not a "necessity," nor is the intercooler (though highly recommended), or BOV (but again highly recommended). I've seen many low pressure systems installed that would be very similar to the stock set-up on the L28ET, without issues. For many people that have not installed or worked on a turbo system previously, it is a good idea to start with a stock donor system, or something very close, get that running well, then move up, add on and change from there, to gain a larger understanding of how the system works and what changes have what effect. On the flip side, if you're like me, do lots of research, and understand how the system works, you can piece together a custom system the first time with success. Copying someone else's system that has your requirements and goals already met is a great way to get a system together as well. I couldn't agree more about wanting 250HP or so in an S30, being a great HP point. I have around 300HP in mine right now and partly due to the old hard tires, I have a hard time getting traction. With the power I do have, it's almost "too much," I can get myself into trouble pretty quickly if I'm not careful. I can barely wring out the first two gears, let alone any higher gears on the street, just too easy to break the speed limit. That being said I am shooting for considerably more power in the future, but not because I need it, just because I want it, and I wouldn't want any less power than I have right now.

Those harnesses from MSA will not affect a future engine swap.

Yes, you will need a manual flywheel. The autos use a flexplate.

Hmm, if I had to do it all over again, I would probably do it the same. The only change I might have made would be to swap in my planned engine swap sooner. I love my turbo L28, and am glad that I have stuck with it for a few years now, playing with it and learning about it, but I want to get my next engine in the engine bay, next winter, it should be in. If I swapped to the new engine sooner, I wouldn't have the cool avatar. LOL

Uhh, it's already around, called Ethanol, but it takes a lot of resources to produce. While I absolutely love the sound of an internal combustion engine and turbos, I will be building an electric vehicle soon enough, I have the chassis, just need to find the parts cheap enough.

DIYAutotune.com has EDIS trigger wheels.

This was talked about a while ago. I'm trying to find the article, but this news is at least 6 months old.

It is best to run it pre-turbo, like stock. Teeing into the brake booster hose, will require a check valve in line, so that the crank case is not pressurized, but essentially, you'd be making the same connection as the crankcase vent below the intake to the intake itself. The reason it is best to route is as OEM, is because under boost, the crank case vent will close, to keep from pressurizing the crank case, but with the cam cover connected pre-turbo, there will be a little bit of vacuum created here to help create a crankcase vacuum during WOT/boost, helping to seal rings and pull crankcase vapours from the crankcase.

I don't understand why you're having axle binding or bottoming issues, I turned the outer bearing cage around, ground down the end of the axle and don't have this issue.

Just speaking of small block versus big block displacements in general, there are small blocks that are built with displacements equal to or larger than many stock big block displacements. In the Chevy world there are some 454 small block chevys. This takes a special block and components, but the point is it's not displacement that determines the difference between small and big block, but the casting itself.

I don't think the exhaust is tall enough... Ever have one of those moments when you write something you never thought would be written?

As much as I love driving my 240 almost daily, I'd never want it to be my only driver. I don't like driving it in wet weather, and it's nice to have a different car to drive while adding upgrades or repairs where a part may need to be ordered.

No, ordered through a supplier at work.

Yep, it was that or MSD brand IIRC that I used to make mine.

Just to add to this, yes, I have a '77 280Z fender on my 240Z. IIRC there was a slight difference in the bumper anchor hole.

Understandable, I too want to hit a certain number, just because I've wanted to with the engine I plan on swapping in for years, mostly due to nay-sayers out there. Many people say it can't be done, since most people have only seen around 400 HP from this engine, and no it's not a Nissan engine. In reality I realize I only "need" about half of that power, which I pretty much already have with my turbo L28.

Are the battery cables possibly backwards?