Six_Shooter

The charge terminal of the alternator is usually connected to the starter's battery terminal. Running a wire from the alternator's charge terminal to the battery's positive terminal is fine. I like to use no less than 8 AWG for this connection.

You can probably pick up a proper hose from a local welding supply place.

Either gold or body colour for the front bumper. The chrome just adds in a third material/colour that doesn't quite fit IMO.

I believe the grey panels are just painted by the owners. I've seen a myriad of colours painted on those panels of Japanese S30s.

The structure at the right front will need to be straightened, the upper rad support is pushed back a bit, and the inner support for the candy scoop is definitely affected. Get the proper measurements and make sure it's pulled back to the right spot, if not, donor structure will be needed. Overall, it doesn't look too bad, still a shame though.

If you can't find one local, I think I have one. I'll just have to refresh my memory on identifying transmissions.

How did you get the windshield and hatch glass so clear?

Thr klearz.com lenses are for 260-280z, not 240z.

Yep, just takes an adapter plate. Been done plenty with many engines over the years.

If you have trouble finding parts that are local to you, let me know, I have everything, or almost everything, I think I'm missing the clutch hydraulics.

PM'd

I always attach the engine mounts first, then trans mounts. Sometimes there will be some shifting of parts and prying to line up.

I wasn't so sure about this donor, until I saw this picture: I haven't looked yet, but I'm hoping the Maxima came with black faced gauges, then I'll be looking into this even more.

Yep, you own an S130, known as a 280ZX here in North America. Japan may have badged it differently, such as a 280Z. In some case, usually cars from the early to mid '70s and before it was not 7uncommon for a car to be registered as a year or two newer than it's manufacturing date would suggest. This would be due to sitting on the lot for that time, and the first year it was registered is the year it was dated as by that DMV/MOT/MTO. This is less common with newer cars where the VIN actually dictates the model year.

You only need an RPM activated switch, not a window switch for a shift light. There are plenty of stand alone shift lights available, name brands like Auto Meter have them, Summit has them and many lesser known manufacturers also have them. Depending on the unit, they are adjustable by pills, dials or programming through buttons. The tach used has no effect on the standalone shift light.

Try lubricating the front guide, it might be binding. Also check that it's not bent, that can also cause binding.

It's better than shaved handles. I have a few ideas for handles to use, just need to decide on a set.

Something like this is what I was thinking, though, I had something more like getting some generic rubber in mind, than looking for a specific car to pull something from.

You could still have a stock look, by making a larger pedal face, that looks stock.

Why not just attach a larger face/rest to the existing dead pedal?

No, I meant you can only use the shared cars for online racing, in other words, I couldn't use a shared car, for any of my career races, correct?

I have an LC-1 that I will be removing from my car soon, if you are interested in that. I can include an innovate analog gauge with it as well. PM me, if you're interested.

The fuel pressure is the same from the FPR, all the way back through the lines to the pump. If you want to get REAL technical, there will be a SLIGHT drop each time an injector opens, but the FPR will recover quickly. By all rights you could place the FPR back at the tank, and not notice any changes in fuel pressure at the rail that are out of the ordinary, would just be a pointless endevour though. I have my Aeromotive AFPR located where the original fuel pump was and have not had an issue. The hose from the end of the fuel rail travels under the upper rad hose and to the FPR, so maybe a slight be shorter than yours that goes over the cam cover, but similar idea.

But you can only use the cars that are shared online, correct?

I'd have to start racing online to join. I've already had "join mah club" requests, that I haven't answered. Can you be a member of more than one club?