Six_Shooter

Uhhh, if you're going to go through the trouble of moving everything under the car back 1", moving the strut towers back 1" wouldn't be that difficult.

That's usually the hardest thing to do. LOL I usually go with what's avilable to me easily or cheaply. LOL

I had the 280zx rear disc conversion on my car. BTW, the conversion uses the 280zx caliper caliper hanger and rotor, not the 300zx rotor (at least not the turbo rotor), and the Maxima calper brackets. The 280zx set-up worked well, and if I was keeping the 4 lug set-up I'd keep the rear brakes as they were. I would make a slight modification to the e-brake system, as I have done now, and that is to move an attachment point on the intermediate parking brake lever system. My "new" rear brake system will keep the 280zx rear calipers, Maxima caliper brackets (slightly modified), and use 300zx rear disc and caliper hangers. I am doing it this way for the 5 bolt conversion. I didn't want to drill the rotor for the 5 bolt pattern, even though that would have been a MUCH easier way to do it. LOL The 300zx rotor is larger in diameter, than the 280zx rotor. FWIW, I bought my calipers used, and haven't had a problem with them. I thought I did initially have a problem with the parking brake system, but that seemed to be an adjustment issue, not a functioning issue. The only other issue I have had was the parking brake cable siezing on one side, but that was an original 240Z cable, so it wouldn't be fair to say it was due to the disc swap.

It's been a while since I looked at how to use an MS to control a coil directly, so I won't give any fuzzy information on that. However, another, and from what I read possibly more reliable way to use the '81 dizzy would be to use a GM Ignition Control Module (ICM), from a computer controlled GM car. The ICM could come from a lot of cars, from the mid '80s to late '90s. I used an ICM from a 2.8L V6 that was originally in an S-10 when I did my EFI swap initially, before swapping the DIS onto the engine. Very simple hook up, the red and green wires from the dizzy connect to the ICM, on two .185" pins, I used a couple .185 terminals to do this. These pins would be inside the original dizzy, and connect to the reluctor. These pins are by themselves on one side of the module. The other side has two shrouded sets of pins, one shroud has a pair of pins, one being 12V ignition (pink when using the GM connector), the other being the trigger signal to the coil (white, again when using the GM connector). The other shroud has 4 pins, these connect to or near the ECM. The 4 pins, when using the GM connector has a Purple/White, which is the "REF HI", as GM calls it, this wire provides the RPM signal to the ECM, White, which is "REF LO", which is the EST signal, this tells the ICM how much timing for that spark event, a Tan/Black wire that will tell the ICM when to switch to using the ECM controlled timing. This is a 12V signal, that when used with the MS, needs a relay to switch on, to work correctly, and finaly a Black/Red wire, that is simply a ground. In GM applications, this Black/Red is connected to the ECM and is a reference, for the ECM. The GM ICM will also work without an ECM connected to it. This is used for starting and limp home modes in the GM applications, and why there is the Tan/Black wire to switch the ICM between base timing and ECM controlled timing. I know there is information in the Mega Manual about connections and set-up. IIRC it's under the "GM HEI ignition" section.

You may have to swap th eoutput shaft as well. From looking at the above picture, that tail housing looks quite a bit longer than I have seen come out of a Mustang, Camaro, or even S-10. (S-10 shifter is in a similar location to what you already have.) I don't recall what swapping the output shaft would require, it's been a while since I had a T5 apart.

A relay is fine for the current needed to trip the solenoid, which is what the OP is doing, not trying to run the entire starter from it.

I have an R180 and mustache bar that I pulled from my '73 240Z. It's a 3.54 ratio. Just putting this up, incase you might be interested. PM me if you are interested.

I have a pair that I want to sell with two 240Z valences and a "ducted" Spook. PM me if interested.

I also have a BRE "ducted" Spook, with two complete Valences, and one pair of 240 turn signals. I would rather sell all together, since I'm changing to a body kit nose. PM me if interested.

So you're looking for a points triggered tach that will fit the 240Z? If so, I have one I can part with. PM me if this is what you want.

I tried searching You tube for "Like a G6" and came up with results that didn't have any S30s in the videos..... Any more specific info on this band, or video? The original link comes back with a "not allowed to be viewed in your country" message. I'm probably going to regret watching this video.

I have an N/A L28 in my 240Z that I have added a turbo and EFI too. When I first got the car, it had carbs on the L28. I have not opened the engine to change anything from stock. The most invasive I have been was just recently to put a new timing chain in. I have ran as high as 14 PSIG non-intercooled (still haven't finished making my FMIC yet), and have backed it down to 10 PSIG, only because I saw some huge intake temps at 14 PSIG. Control is the key. I am using a GM ECM with an enhanced GM code in it, that works very well. People seem to like the MegaSquirt (not a fan). Going with something that is tunable and has more finite control than the original L28E or L28ET ECM will make all the difference, when it comes to keeping the engine together. FWIW, I might be selling my complete Turbo L28, come winter, because I plan on going to a very different engine. I'm also not that far from you, just about an hour and a half, or so, in Brantford ON. The Ontario Z car club will be having thier ZFest in August, here in Brantford at the Nissan dealership, and there will be a few turbo L28s there, both converted N/A L28s and originally turbocharged L28s. You will be able to get some ideas and find out what guys have and haven't had work for them there.

I have a vented spook, but would really like to sell it with the valence and marker lights if I could. If you'r interested PM me.

I bought an R200 diff cover gasket end last year from a local Nissan dealership. Nice thing is the parts guy I deal with is also a Z enthusiast, he owns a couple, one is a street car, the other is a road race car, he's also a member of a local Z car club, discounts FTW. Anyway, I just recently installed it, so if I haven't thrown out the packaging yet, I'll post up the part number.

Cool, I'd like to see pictures of his set-up. I haven't posted specifics of wheel dimentions or anything like that, because, the wheel size can actually vary, depending on the application. If I would have made that wheel for the Datsun specifically, I would have made it in a smaller diameter. The wheel that I am using was orginally made for my S-15 Jimmy, that I used an early 2.8L RWD block on that doesn't have provisions for a crank trigger, so I had go external with it. Since that project is not together right now and will be using a FWD block in it next time, I decided to just use the wheel in the Datsun, use what you already have, right? There really isn't any specific years that need to be used for the sensors, per-se, because the parts that can be used, not only have a fairly wide range of years that they were used, but there are also other variations that could be used. Such as the throttle body. A GM throttle body (TB) doesn't have to be used, but it did, in my case make it easier to integrate the IAC and TPS, along with changing to a cable actuated throttle. But just to put some specifics up: The TB I used can be found on '96 to 2004 3400 V6. I will be swapping to a smaller TB, since I believe I am experiancing the same phenominon as I did with my truck, where a smaller TB worked better, and made more bottom end torque. The 3400 TB is 56mm, the TB I am swapping to, is from the "small port" 3100, made between late '93 in some vehciles (others retained the older genII version of the engine), up to 1999. The small port 3100 TB is 52mm. The throttle cable was from a mid to late '90s Buick IIRC, I just don't recall the model, the cable is quite long though, and can be recognized by the way it is routed through the engine bay, where it actually wraps around the engine bay. LOL The car the cable came from also had a 3100 in it. The DIS ignition module I used is the same one that is used on the genII and genIII 60 degree V6, this spans from 1987 to 2004, mostly FWD applications, but there was one RWD application that used this ignition set-up as well, and that is the '93 to '95 3.4L F-body (Firebird/Camaro). If a dizzy is going to be used than the 280Z dizzy works well, after locking both the mechanical and vacuum advance to be solid, then connecting to a dizzy ICM, such as what would be found in a 2.8L S-10. This is what I used for the first few months I had my swap running, since I didn't have time to swap the DIS in initially. The Coolant temp sensor, was also pulled from a 3100, but really any of the GM CTS sensors from the late '80s to about 2004 will work. Some com in the "two wire" flavour, while some are "three wire". The difference is the two-wire is for ECM signal only, and the 3 wire is for ECM signals as well as a gauge sender. I have a 3 wire in my car right now, but I am only using the wire connections for the ECM. The MAT sensor also has a wide range of available years. Mostly found in turbo applications, such as the Turbo Sunbird, Skyhawk, Grand AM, but also found in the late '90s 2.0L Cavalier. I can't recall for sure, but the N/A 2.0L OHC used in the Sunbird, may also have the same MAT sensor. For turbo applications I prefer to use the threaded ones that can be installed in the intake manifold directly, to get the air temp measurment as close to the cylinder as feasible. N/A applications, can use the air box or intake tube mounted plastic IAT sensors, since the air temp doesn't change as much in N/A applications as it does in a turbo application. The ECM can be a few variations. The ECM service number I am using is a 1227749, this was found in the Syclone/Typhoon, Turbo Sunbird (Turbo Grand Am should be the same), and a couple Quad 4 applications, but I don't recall the excat years of those. Another ECM that works well is the 1227730, which is much more common. These are both underdash mount ECMs. There are also other ECM service numbers that will work, but are just newer replacements of the original service numbers. If you wanted an under hood mount ECM, you can use the 1227727, this is found in W-bodies (Cutlass, Monte Carlo, etc) in the early to mid '90s. There are a couple other service numbers as well, same again, newer updates and running revisions of the ECM. The other thing that will be a factor is which ECM to use is if you will be using high or low-Z injectors. If you are using high-Z injectors any of the above mentioned ECMs will work, if you are using Low-Z, you will want the 1227749, since it has two injector drivers, where as the other's only have one injector driver. Also a 6 or 8 cylinder application with Low-Z injectors will require a sense resistor modification to enable proper peak and hold function of the injector drivers. 4 cylinder applications can use Low-Z injectors, without modification. The turbo Sunbird used Low-Z injectors stock. The wire harness I used was pulled from a 1988 Cavalier, and modified to fit my truck, then I transfered the same harness into the Datsun. You can also use harnesses from L-bodies (Beretta/Corsica), and many other FWD vehicles of the late '80s and early '90s. This harness will work with the '7730/'7749, the '7727 would require a harness from the W-body to match up with the plugs. Anything else you want to know? Sorry to get a bit off topic of the ITB discussion, but there's no reason why the GM ECM won't be able to run what you have planned.

Well since my post was about this thread and what it was discussing it is was and still is absolutly correct. Agree to disagree, since you seem to think everyone has to share your views and opinions. Holy bad assumptions, Batman. You have no idea what my abilities are, or what I can or can not "feel", so now, you're just making yourself look more like an ass, remember the definintion of "assume". I find it doubling entertaining that while you have never seen my car, you assume that it's not set up right, and isn't controlled under braking conditions. I'm interested to know how you can tell this from over the internet. Again, you assume, that there is sometihing wrong with my brakes, and/or my biasing, I'm still trying to figure out how you "know" this..... Oh wait, I guess that's because we have to go back to the fact that everyone must share your views and opinions.... I think we've gone through this already...... I'm finding this trend with some of the "senior" members, who some don't appear to even drive Z cars anymore, are trying to push away people, that are actually trying to help others, by claiming to know more than the people that are posting trying to help, a little disheartening, in that even when someone trys to help, no matter how correct the reply is, one of these "senior" members will come in and argue, some point that I'm still trying to figure out. Why not, and this is just an idea, instead of trying to argue with one person, help out the subject of the thread? I dunno, maybe that's too idealistic? I replied, because the idea of using the same caliper all the way around is not a good way to set up a braking system, and no one else had pointed that out. I was also trying to point out why it was a bad idea, not just argue some minsicule point.

*sigh* Please go back and read the first post of this thread, you'll see why my "bold statement" is more than true. *hint* The idea was to use the same calipers all the way around. No mention of prop valves, or any other tuning devices. Quite true, you know why? Because as I said I've only locked them up once, and guess what, I was IN the car when it happened, kinda hard to see how the wheels are locking up or which ones are locking up first. I don't know about you, but I'm hardly ever at the need to lock up my brakes, I'm a driver that plans out and pays attention to what is going on around me, hense why I've, again, only locked up my brakes once on my 240. The braking is very good and controlled the way it is now, with no indication that the rears are lacking in performance. I've had several other cars that have had brake problems at one time or another and know when something isn't quite right. While I may want a bit more rear brake bias than I have now, the system works quite well as is. I'll be changing most of it this winter anyway, since I will be swapping to 5 lugs hubs, and will be doing the brake set-up a little differently than what I've seen other people do with the 5 lug swap, but now we are getting off topic here.... This is part of the reason my brake system will be changing, in addition to the fact that my current rotors won't work well with the 300ZX hubs. That and I'd rather have vented rotors anyway.

Just as an FYI, here is a turbo exhaust manifold in the classifieds: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=154088 Here is a full swap: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=154729 Pallnet Fuel and injectors: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=154948 Along with many other classifieds from just parts to full swaps. Just to give you ideas of what can be found.

I had some steel "slot" type wheels when I first got my Z and swapped on the brakes, not the stock steel wheels, so I can't say that they will fit or not. I currently have 280ZX 6 spoke wheels on my car, and the clearance is fine with them. You could always, just unbolt the stock caliper, hang it out of the way on a coat hanger, or mechanics wire, bolt the Toyota caliper in place and set your wheel back on, to check for clearance. Snug up at least two of the lugnuts and spin the wheel to make sure there is no interferance.

HAHA, yeah, Jerry, it's already a little faster now, then last year when I was following you. I can't wait until next year when I get some parts sorted out like the intercooler. But I quoted you because of the good advice to take reasonable steps to get to the goals. I think too many people push the envelope to far too quickly and that's what causes problems. That's part of the reason I'm still only up to 11 PSIG max boost on my set-up currently, 14 PSIG was just a tad too much for no intercooler.

I turbocharged my, AFAIK, completly stock L28E. No thicker head gasket, flat top pistons and a P90 head, that from what I've seen puts this engine at 8.8:1 SCR, perfect SCR for turbocharging IMO, well actually a little lower than I like, but I'm not about to sink a bunch of money into an engine that I only plan on leaving in the car for a couple years. I went the "add a turbo" route, because it's hard to find a complete L28ET around here, at least not without spending way more than the engine is actually worth, and the fact that I wouldn't be using most of the L28ET parts, like the ECM, or fuel rail, injectors, TB, etc. Basically, I bought an L28ET exhaust manifold, bolted a turbo I already had to it, bought an N47 intake, modified it to be cleaner (removed bolt bosses and throttle linkage towers), then had an adator made to use a GM throttle body, installed an L28 dizzy, connected to a GM ignition control module and used a GM ECM to run the show. This was much easier to find and get the parts, which I found all Nissan specific parts in the classifieds here on HybridZ, and other parts locally. there was other miscalenous parts, such as injectors, fuel rail, fuel pump fuel lines, wiring intake tubing, etc, that I mostly purchased locally that will have to be taken into account when you do your build, but most of the time, at least some of these parts would need to be supplied seperatly from getting a complete L28ET anyway. On top of that, I see most people swap out the L28ET ECU rather soon after swapping in, and getting it running. Boost is addictive and it doesn't take long before you will want more, and that's where a tunable ECM comes into play, MS, 300ZX ECM with Nistune, GM ECM ( ) or other tunable EMS.

Who's your buddy? AFAIK, I'm the only one to use a GM ECM on a Turbo L28. I would be interested in seeing someone else had done thiers.

Hypereutectic pistons work very well for modest forced inducted engines. I had a set in my turbo 3.2L V6 in my '85 GMC Jimmy, well over 20,000 HARD Kms, and when I pulled them out, other than the typical grunge that's on a piston they looked like new, I know there was some detonation too, since I didn't have it tuned well, but they too the beating, and I ended up selling them to someone else that has used them for a long time. "Forged" is not always the answer. On a street and/or daily driven engine I wouldn't use Forged.

I'm surprised this thread is on page two and no one has said anything about brake balance. Putting 4 piston calipers all the way around will be VERY rear brake biased. Under braking conditions, the weight of a vehicle transfers forward and more "weight" is being put on the front axle, and so more brake "power" is needed to actually apply an opposite force to the motion of the vehicle. Since the weight is transfered forward during braking conditions, this means that weight is "removed" from the rear axle and so less braking "power" is needed to apply the same amount of braking force to the rear axle. This is an overly simplified explaination, but I hope it starts to iilistrate the point. This is the reason that the rear calipers and usually rotors are smaller than the front on the same car. I have the Toyota 4 piston front calipers with non-vented rotors, along with the 280ZX rear disc swap, and my car stops well. I actually have the original master cylinder as well, and I don't find my pedal spongy at all. That will be at least in part due to the braided stainless steel flex lines I am using. I've only ever locked my brakes up once, in a panic situation, because the rest of the time the brakes work well enough to be able to modulate the brakes and come to a nice controlled stop, even in near panic situations. I'm not one that is not hard on thier brakes, but I do like to have upgraded brakes simply for the fact that it's easier to modulate a more "powerful" brake set-up than one that is just adequate. I would suggest going with the vented front brakes though. The only reason I have the non-vented version on my car currently is because I bought the entire brake set-up from one person, and it was easier to just use what I got.

Looks like the Unisteer unit could be installed anywhere in the link between the steering wheel and rack, not just under the dash, space and isolating from water/elements permitting, of course.