Six_Shooter

You could likely still use that bracket, just sandwhich the ICM between the coils and the bracket. The OEM set-up is that way. There is an aluminium brack that the ICM sits on, then the coils are placed on top of the ICM, the assembly is then screwed to the bracket.

If you have any specific questions, shoot me a PM, I can direct you to some links that should be of help, if you decide to keep the GM/Delco ECM.

Verified timing with a timing light?

No, I didn't say to replace your coils, I said to use the GM ICM... This installs UNDER the coils. This gives you the interface for the coils, ignition, ground, triggers, and the ICM will decipher the order to fire the coils, due to the crank trigger wheel design. Sorry, I can see how that may not have been clear in my previous post. This is what it looks like: Your coils would mount right to that.

You would be better off getting an ICM (Ignition Control Module) from a GM 60 degree V6, since those are basically GM coils. A simple 7x ( AKA "6+1" wheel is all that is needed to run the crank signal to the ICM. Then the MS just needs the simple "HEI" connection to inteface with the ICM. There is a specific section in the MegaManual that explains the connections and settings for the GM DIS ICM, and a diagram of the wheel. This is the ignition system I am using on my Turbo L28, but I am using a GM ECM to run it, that is the only difference.

This is kinda how I start with a fresh tune, I tune GM ECMs, not MS, but the principal would be the same. I start with commanding the idle to be high, on hard to idle/one off combinations. By "commanding" I mean using the IAC that is installed in GM applications to allow more air in, opening the TB is a similar principle, and have had to do that too sometimes. I usually start about 1200 RPM, tune those cells, command idle a little lower, usually about 100 to 200 RPM decreses, until I get down to 600 to 800 idle (depending on the engine). I do this with the engine at operating temp. I will as it's warming up monitor AFRs to make sure it's not too rich to wash down the cylinders, but once the operating temp tune is close, the cold start and warm up tuning can be tweaked much easier. FWIW, my L28 with a large turbo installed, 32 lbs/hr injectors, 3" exhaust, and 2.5" intake piping likes to idle stable in the high 14:1 to mid 13:1 AFRs, and around 18* of advance. leaner or more timing and I seem to get surge. I'm also finding that my engine doesn't seem to like any more timing cold than warm.

Actually there is a PnP option for the GM TBI harness to the MS: http://www.diyautotune.com/catalog/megasquirtii-tbi-746747-adapter-pcb-p-187.html?osCsid=703635eb22e3249b344f75a377258d12 It's an adaptor that goes between the MS and the GM haness connectors. This adaptor would actually work for a few more ECMs than just the '7747/'7746 that DIY Autotune lists. FYI, The GM TBI ECM is a "standalone" type system that will control both fuel and spark completly. Without knowing all the details of the OP's install it's hard to say how much of the capabilities he is using, but it is very simple to have both fuel and spark control on an L-series engine, using a GM ECM, by simply using a L28 dizzy and a GM dizzy ICM (Ignition Control Module). This GM ICM option would and is also a good way to interface easily to an MS system as well, since the GM ICM will supply the RPM reference and control spark timing with a couple simple connections to the ECM/EMS, without the need to use coil drivers built into the MS, which seem to have been a problem for some people from time to time. The GM ICM triggers the coil directly.

It's true, I run a GM ECM on my L28 turbo in my Datsun. I'm not running a TBI ECM, I'm actually running a 1227749 with $59 ( code59.org ), and it runs very well, with full tunability. I can't read the service number on your ECM, but should be of the same era as the '7749/'8063/etc. This requires a small adaptor to use a new, more commonly available EEPROM ( 28 as opposed to the original 24 pin ), a datalogging cable, to plug into the ALDL serial connection, that can be home made for a few dollars (serial) , or bought with connection options to USB. A programmer, which can be found for as little as about $40, download Tuner Pro RT for free ( small donation to get rid of the 10 second delay/nag box at start up ), and with the proper datalogging files, you're tuning for possibly less than $100. This wouldn't give real time tuning, but can be tuned without the need for real time. If you want real time tuning you'd add about $200 for the EPROM emulator and a small signal amplifier that the older GM TBI ECMs need. If it were me, I would probably use the '7747 ECM, which runs the $42 code ( FYI "$42" is actually a hex number, to identify the code that the ECM uses, not how much it costs. ), and has been hacked apart put back together modified, and just very well known in the DIY (Delco) tuning community, so there is a lot of information out there. I actually have one of these ECMs sitting on my test bench, that I had in a friends truck for a while, with a home made EEPROM adaptor. Had it running his 409 in his '67 Chev pick up, but didn't have the correct CALPAK to make the injector scheme fire right for the V8, discovered this after swapping to a different ECM, more suited to his application. There is another option for tuning the GM TBI ECM, and that is to have what is called an EBL (Embedded Lockers system) installed in the ECM, this replaces the daughter board, where the CALPAK and EPROM are installed under that small removable cover, and gives real time tuning, along with adding some other features, such as E-fan control, nitrous control, etc, through the use of additional outputs. I'm not bashing MS either, I just find that the GM ECM has more tunability, more functionality and can be emmisions compliant, even though the swapping of another manufacturer's ECM into a different vehicle is a grey area. I keep looking at the MS and there is always something that keeps me from using it. I have a fairly long list of why nots, but I won't post that here. Just pointing out that before you give up on the GM (Delco) ECM, that they are very tunable, and very affordably too.

I've been through a few variations on gauges in my 240 so far. 1 - Original (obviously) 1a - Original with 280Z Volt gauge inplace of Amps gauge. 2 - Modified Sunbird quad gauge cluster installed in original Tach opening/housing, with a small (2" ) tach, 2 5/8" Auto Meter vac/boost gauge and 2" Auto Meter Air/fuel ratio gauge installed in the trio openings. 3- Current set-up is 5" Auto Meter in stock tach opening (snug fit), 2 5/8" Auto Meter Vac/Boost, 2 5/8" Auto Meter Oil Press, 2 5/8" Auto Meter Water Temp in the trio openings, with 2" Auto Meter gauges in the radio opening of Volts, Air/Fuel, and Fuel level. I'm now looking for a different way to get all the information, I'm leaning towards either retrofitting some newer gauges into the stock housings, so that I have two gauges per opening again, or buying something pre-made that could do the same. If it wasn't for the price and the fact that they don't look all that great, I'd get some gauges from: http://www.spatechnique.com/

I believe you are refering to the BW turbo from the 6.5L Diesel found in the GM trucks. I have that turbo on my L28, and after some slight fitment issues, needed to remove a cast in bump from the exhaust manifold to clear the compressor housing and make a 3/16" spacer to move the turbo away from the exhaust manifold, I was surprised at how well the turbo actually works. It spools up by about 3000 RPM, and seems to work well. I'm currently running 11 PSIG maximum, but have ran it to 14 PSIG. I have the boost down right now due to no intercooler.

Well, for myself, I'm looking to do a few things... Reduce weight, hence the desire for aluminum. Increase cooling capacity, because well, why not? My rad is on it's way out now, so I want to have a solution in mind or even the parts BEFORE that happens. BTW, my car is not very stock at all, hence why I'm looking for a different rad. Figured that would be obvious but I guess that I need to go through a check list of details about my car, and provide information about me previously seraching in order to get a responce with information that I or the OP, or anyone searching later on can use. I have no problems with cooling now, especially since I added the second fan e-fan, but again, I have my reasons. Why is it so hard to just get help here or a good discussion on possible soulutions?

I would agree that a possibility is weak spark. Another real possibility is fouled plugs, especially since you say you can smell fuel on the plugs. To me this means they have or had liquid fuel on the plugs themselves and would likely have a hard time firing off. A quick test that can sometimes work to verify if the plugs are fouled is to pull all the plugs and heat them up with a propane torch, just so that they are warm, not hot, then re-install them, quickly, you don't want them to cool off too much and try to start it again, if it fires, go buy yourself a new set of plugs, and find out why your engine was so flooded that it fouled the plugs. When you are testing for spark, either use a new or known good plug, or an actual spark tester, don't use the plugs from the engine, they are an unknown at this point and could show you a "waek spark", even if the coil is fine. You can also check the plug wires, since that can also be a cause of weak spark at the plug. You can test by substituion, as in putting in a known good set, as in used ones that work, or you can use a DMM (Digital Multi Meter) and test the resistance of the plug wires, it should be a certain amount of resistance per foot, check with the wire manufacturer. Also a vehicle service manual such as a Haynes repair manual should have some general specifications for that as well.

You seem to have a hard time understanding what you're reading. I have spent time at the wreckers, that removes every single rad from every vehicle so that was a waste of time. I've spent time at NAPA going through the rad catalog, which was WAY more helpful than this site has been. I have 4 possible solutions to swap in, I just need to research the cooling capacity and designs a bit more, before I decide on which one to go with. Two are, or look to be "double pass", third one is a 2 row, but is kinda small, the forth is a single row and single pass. Two would also require pressuried surge tanks. ...And hours searching this forum, which came up with two non-aftermarket results. Seems I've spent a lot time searching already. Why is people think that "use the search" is the reply for every new thread on this site? Posting a list of possible rads is just helpful, and can confirm what someone else is thinking of using or can bring up things to watch out for when trying a rad or other item that someone else has tried. Worse yet, people don't seem to understand the words strung together: I-have-already-searched-and-came-up-with-either-no-results-or-not-an-option-I-like,-what-are-other-possible-options?

:facepalm: I didn't mention any aftermarket solutions, because well, they are generally out of my price range, hence why I spent two hours at NAPA tonight looking through a rad supplier catalog. Also it doesn't sound like the OP is looking for an aftermarket solution either, hence why he suggested the S130 and Z31 as examples of possible solutions. I plan to "order a rad to my dimentions", it will just happen to be for a different car completly, then make my own mounts, but again, the only rads that seem to come up seem to be the Camaro rad and S130 rad. Why is it so hard to just post about the "ton more solutions", instead of pulling this "search harder" BS?

I've only sen two results from searching this topic.... 280zx and some Camaro rad. I was at NAPA today and went through thier rad book and found for more possible rads, that were the way I want, aluminium, and crossflow. I'm sure I could have found plenty more in Brass/copper, or top down flow, but didn't look at those options. I had the book open for about 2 hours looking at pictures and dimensions. I need to do more research on each of the possibles, and see which one will be "best" for my application. All required fabricating new brackets and adapting the rad hoses though.

I guess I'm a ricer then, not that I needed it per-se, but I got a good deal, and I like how it looks. Block is F54, head is P90, from an '81 or '82 280ZX, that's as narrowed down as I could get it. I'm sure if I talked to enough 280ZX owners I could narrow it down to one year or the other, from the number stamped into the block. The engine came in the car when I got it. Truth be known, I would have turbocharged an L24 if that was what was in the car. The extra displacement was just a nice surprise. I have some 42 lbs/hr low-Z injectors to go in once I get the IC in and am able to turn up the boost a bit.

BSPT will thread into NPT fairly easily, depending on size, but not the other way around. The Ford T3, being off a Turbo Coupe or SVO mustang definatly has NPT threaded inlet and coolant port threads. I've had a couple.

I don't know about the OEM Nissan turbos, but just about any other Turbo I have used has been NPT, not BSPT, That goes for the Garrets I've installed, knock offs, the Borg Warner I have on my Datsun currently, and a few others I've had my hands on. FWIW, I am running a turbo on my "N/A" L28, I've had it upwards of 14 PSIG non-intercooled and not had any problems. I am currently running 10 PSIG, until I get my FMIC built and installed. I'm running Ford 30 lbs/hr Injectors which at the 44 PSIG base fuel pressure I'm running works out to about 32 lbs/hr. N47 intake, ZXT manifold, full 3" exhaust, Moroso Spiroflow muffler, no cat or resonator, 2.5" intake plumbing, 56 mm TB, which I will be swapping to a 52mm, running on a GM ECM with GM DIS. Runs great and already has more than enough power to get into trouble. LOL Before swapping to the DIS, I ran an N/A dizzy, from a '77 or '78 IIRC, with a GM ignition control module, to interface to the GM ECM and provide ECM controlled timing. It worked well, the DIS is just more accurate and is much smoother than the dizzy set-up was. Flatblack280, you forgot to mention the "TURBO" cam cover, that's required. LOL

No, for me, it's what the material is, but how it is shapped/fitted under the vent, it's just an asthetics thing. They look great as is, just a little touch, or shape of my own is what I'd want. I'm thinking about a 280Z hood more now after seeing this vent design though.

Read my entire post... I don't use a torque wrench on my wheel bearings, ever. As Jeffer has said a worn ball joint could not allow the wheel/rim to move in relation to the strut or spring perch, since the spindle is atached solidly to strut. The strut tube that is pressed (and welded IIRC) into the cast spindle would have to be broken/loose, etc, which may not be a bad idea to check that, especially now that you have said that side of the car was heavily damaged at one point.

How much work it would take to go back to a Datsun/Nissan engine would depend entirely on how the SBC was installed. I've seen conversions (not just in the Z) in everyway from hacked, with literally glue and gum holding them in to pristine conversions that kept the integrity and much of the original chassis intact. Might be worth it to throw some pictures up of the conversion, and some of the mounts, chassis, etc. Would help determine how much work it might take to go back. What kinds of problems are you having with the SBC? You might end up with the same problems with the new engine if it isn't an engine specific problem.

I wouls start by moving the cam back to the original position. You made a few changes all at once, so it's difficult to pinpoint what changed how it drives the most. FWIW, my set-up was pretty sluggish, when going to large throttle changes, like from cruise to 50% or greater throttle position, played with AE, both TPS and MAP based AE tables, without much improvement. I started playing with my timing table over the last week, and made some vast improvments in driveability and most noticebly, the transition from high vacuum into boost. Most of the timeing table I advanced. You will also be hitting parts of the VE table you likely didn't before so they will likely be less than idealy tuned, with the later onset of boost, you may find that the low KPA at higher RPM cells are being used now, as opposed to before where boost would come on quicker, and use the higher KPA cells at lower RPM. First thig first is put the cam back to where it was, you should notice your idle vacuum come back up to where it was before.

I'd say those are hub caps.

I like it, I'm just not sure if I like because of the silver or hesitant to like it completly because of it. LOL

Wow, those would almost convince me to swap to a 280Z hood. They look very good. I'd have to make my own though, just due to the way I would want the mesh to be shaped, looks like the productions ones wouldn't allow for an easy change.