Six_Shooter

That's another interesting observation, and one I'll have to agree completly with. I've met too many people that can spout off lots of stats and remembered information but have no clue how to apply them.

Interesting, I'm the opposite. I'll take a correect answer with no "work" to get there, since a wrong answer is still a wrong answer and a wrong answer is of no value in the real world. What I find is that the people who can get the correct answer without the "work" can generally with a bit of help explain how they got there, if the "work" to get to the answer is as important as the answer itself.

Interesting. I can see the same parralels with people I have met.

I think the car below is more Datsun-esque than anything that Nissan has come out with since the S130. Oh and it has 4 seats with 540 HP.

There's some cool pictures there.

Interesting idea.

Here is my current desktop:

I'd grab the two 280zxs, but I'd offer between $350 to $400, since he wants both gone, if not offer the $250 for the cancerous one. Or you could be a real dink about it and give him $250 and say that's all that you are giving, but "since you want both gone...". Anyway, from what you've described, a running 150HP car is better than a non-running car. So the 280ZX swap would be on my list right now. I have an L28 in my 240, that I also turbocharged and am having a LOT of fun with, other than one of my 90* couplers splitting yesterday. I used an N/A dizzy in my conversion, but I'm also using a GM ECM to run the works, so my needs are a bit different than most people's. Mega Squirt can be configured to use the N/A or turbo dizzy.

LOL, I've just seen much worse mash-ups, there's something about this one that almost blends.

Just because you can, doesn't mean you should. It's actually not bad looking, and would have looked better if the rear side windows had been made so that they extended forward to match the back of the door windows.

I'm not a fan of topless S30s, but I do like that one. It's the first one that appears to look "proper" to me. There are a bunch of subtle details that make it work. The trunk conversion looks to be very well done. I absolutly love that tail panel, and is pretty much exactly what I've been thinking of doing with mine.

I'm also going to suggest going over the grounding and even go as far as re-soldering the points in the MS and relay board. An intermittant connection somewhere can really play havok with electronics. Just re-soldering board connections can fix problems in many electronic devices it seems.

LOL, I thought the S30 front end was long enough already. Any more pictures, and information? *pssst* Tony, that's not a 2+2.

There's nothing I can physically do, but I can empathize, I've been in that situation before, stranded on teh side of the road with no way of getting going again. It's a helpless feeling. I'm sure everything will turn out. I wish there was more that I could do, but sit by and wait for the story of how this worked out.

Even in non sanctioned drag racing "events" or T&T days, the cage has to be up to cert, if you run the number. Both IHRA and NHRA are particular about the sportsman cage/bar. The main hoop needs to attach to the rocker box, or stiffening member in that area, outside of the driver's and passenger's seating area. The door bars need to pass the driver (and passenger bar, if equipped), between the shoulder and elbow when in a seated position.

looks really cool, I like the punched out Datsun at the top.

I recently purchased a JimStim-K from DIYAutoTune.com (happy with how quickly the order went out ), had fun assembling it, and it works well. I'm not using it with a Mega Squirt, I am using it with a GM ECM right now and it's working pretty much exactly how I wanted it to. Now the issue I have is that the code I am using in the ECM seems to have limited output display to the datalogging. I need to verify the actual RPM at which something occurs above what is currently being displayed. What I would like to do is drive a tach off the JimStim in addition to ECM, so that I can have a display that shows me actual RPM. Will this be a problem? I'm thinking that it won't be, since the trigger to the tach is usually a high Z input and only used for "sampling" the coil input or tach output for a reading.

Sounded better on paper.

Wow, that sounds so tempting, except for the fact that it's in the states. I'm even into ECM/PCMs, modifications, and electronics work.

I don't think there's enough Carbon Fibre. I've always liked the Konigseggs, since I saw the Top Gear test of one a few years ago.

A flex coupling can be used, you just need to add and should add, even now, a support bracket between the engine itself and the turbine/turbine inlet flange. With the set-up you have now, you will find that the tubing will bend and sag over time, maybe not much time. The weight of the turbo and the heating of the pipes cause this.

94 db at what distance? What speed/RPM? From in front/beside/behind the car? Any scaling/weighting to the reading? I could make a completely stock vehicle register well over 94 db at idle, if I wanted, just by sheer placement of the mic. I don't know why he would want 3000 RPM specifically, rarely are any cars at that RPM when they are cruising along, I can drive my car from a start and not hit 3000 RPM, though I usually do, just to hear the turbo spool up and the BOV vent. *EDIT* I see a couple different tables there. the one test is a moving test at 50 feet, the other is a stationary test but doesn't say that the RPM of the vehcile needs to be anything other than idle. Why would it need to be anything other than idle? Most people don't rev thier engines when they are sitting still.

Don't forget plug reading.

I second the request for dimensions, core and overall.