Six_Shooter

SSAC headers? The only critque or suggestion I have is to add a flex coupling to the Y-pipe. The passenger side looks to have plenty of space for it. the reason for this is the expansion and contraction of the headers and Y-pipe with the heating and cooling that will happen. Looks like it will be fun.

I didn't see any pictures of that in the other thread.

I was actually asking Mike for the clarification, since I was asking a question in regards to his post, not yours. I don't see anyone trying to discredit Unique Autosports, in this thread. I see people commenting on the thread subject at hand.

That wasn't a smart remark, I've watched the show, Will refers to himself in the third person. I then added information that other people may not have known about the previous registration.

*drool* I love that style wheel, even better to be able to see it in the warmth (or coolth ) of your own living room.

No it's used to trigger each spark or ignition event, it is used to sync the ECM/injection/ignition to the engine. In most cases there is a single trigger event for one power stroke of one cylinder, in other words, there is a single trigger event for 720* of crank rotation. The dizzy rotates at half the engine RPM, and would use a single tooth, or notch to trigger this sync event. Not very difficult to get this set up to be accurate, since it's usually synced to cyl #1 TDC on the Compression stroke. In most systems it is only used at start up and when the RPM comes back down to a particular threshold where the ECM will revert back to sequential injector fire below a certain RPM. This is the exact application I was thinking of for something like this. For ignition triggering, the crank trigger wheel is best option, since there is no mechanical "slop" between the crank and the triggereing device like there would be with a dizzy replacement part.

Arg..... I too have seen many examples of nitrous on a forced induction engine, it is not ALWAYS double on a forced induction engine, when compared to the same amount of nitrous injected into an N/A engine. That is like saying every 2 pounds of boost gains you 10 HP, it may on a particular engine, but never all. It just not that simple. I've also seen some that added LESS than thier supposed shot on N/A AND forced induction engines. The turboforums are notorious for having poorly gathered or falsified information, which is why I stopped go there long ago.

I've seen a similar concept to the tp the block coffee table above, it was a little nicer though, maybe it was just the lighting. They used 4 pistons with connecting rods to support the glass, which looked very cool. I'm just trying to figure out how to get the GF to let me do the same thing. the rotor topped legs look pretty cool.

Serious question/post, not trying to be an ass...... I see this as a double standard. There have been countless other threads started by many different people, where similar comments have been made, for similar shared media and yet there was no proposed disiplinary action or even a post suggesting such would take place. Why is it that this particular thread is treated differently?

Oh but he does. Actually if this is the same person that registered a few weeks ago, it's one of the croanies, that is registered under the Unique Autosports name, and posts on behalf of the company. *shrug*

This made me SOL (Snicker Out Loud).

I tried using the original electric pump mount that was on my 240 when I got it. It would have worked, I just didn't like how far into the wheel well the tube between the pump and filter was going to be. So I made a new mount that moved the pump closer to the middle of the car. I know I have more pictures, but only have these two uploaded to my webspace.

Well if that really is the only rust then, it would be worth saving. The best plan of attack, looking at the three pictures, would likely be to cut out the floors and the frame railes, and weld in new parts. I believe Bad Dog fab has all the parts needed to replace these. While you're at it, weld in some sub frame connectors.

I'm not exactly a "fan" of MS, not that I don't like it, I'd just rather use other non-conventional EMS. In this case, I'd go MS. It's a lot less expensive than the SDS and from what I've read, and after talking to people use or have used either/both, MS has a lot more capabilities and would be better for tuning with. Also reviews suggest that the MS is a lot more "street friendly". One person that I have talked to that currently uses the SDS wishes that MS was around at the time he built his car. He biggest complaint was lack of datalogging capability. Datalogging to me is very important and was surprised to hear that it didn't do this.

Yep, but it's even worse here.... There is no specified decibel level that is "too loud", it's up to the "discretion of the officer".

Far too blanket of a statement. It doesn't always double, there are other factors involved. The trend though is that the size of "shot" seems to be a little larger on a forced induction engine than an N/A engine, but it's not always double. Also a "50 shot" on an N/A engine may not be a 50 HP increase, it could be anywhere from 30 to 80 HP in some tests I've seen. The size of "shot" is an approximat and never exact. Some factors are bottle pressure, how much fuel is added with the nitrous, timing, how hot the air is, etc.

Yep, with a proper (nitrous) tune up running nitrous on any engine is possible and safe.

I know exactly who's yellow S30 that is, I can even tell you the year AND engine that's in it. 1972 240Z RB20DET swapped, owned by Jerryb. What do I win? Looks like the picture was taken at Christie Lake Conservation area. If that's right do I get bonus points? Looks like a fun place, so when's the next get together?

Looks to me like the plugs are all the same cofiguration accross the length of the head, that is beoing split into cylinder pairs, and is remincent of the Chevy W-head design (409/365). It looks like the #6 cylinder plug wire has an angled boot on it covered in a metal sheild. Not sure why they would do just that one different, but I did buy a set of plug wires for my L28 that had only the #6 plug end as a angled end.

I like it.

Nope, not really. I have decided to run some series of evenst sooner than I had originally planned on, partly because the economic ofrecasts are so bleak, and figure I might as well get them in now and have some fun, just incase something does happen. But the plan for the major upgrades time frame really hasn't changed and some may need to be moved up. I think the problem is that the economic forcasters have made this happen. Once it is said that a recession is coming, or that spending is down, the chicken little hystaria starts up, and will eventually become a self fulfilled prophecy.

My favorite option is just cut a hole in the hood and let the stacks breath through that.

Jerry, next time you're near my car, take a look underneath, You'll be pleastanly surprised how tucked my 3" exhaust is, it's higher than the "frame rails", except for about the first foot or so of where the down pipe enters the tranny tunnel, where it may be about 3/4" below.

I have a 3" on my car, no issues at all, clearance is great, doesn't hit on anything, although I think it may tap the rear valance when I shut the engine off, but not sure. It's also not too loud, the turbo makes a great muffler.

You did mention that in the title. What balancer do you have? I know of at least two different balancers used on the L6, one that came on my '73 that I would assume would be the original balancer and one that was on the '81 ZX. Both have bolt holes that could be used for bolting the EDIS wheel on. The early balancer of mine has two bolt holes 180* apart, while the '81 balancer has 6 bolt holes that were used for a power steering pulley. Did you look at the trigger wheel installation tech articles on DIYautotune? Might shed some light on installing on your engine.