wrcbonk

Wanted to write this up quick before I lost the motivation. Needed to come up with a shift boot for my RB transmission that would seal adequately and fit the new trans in my S30. I decided to order the shift boot from an 84-84 Z31 VG. Wanted new rubber so I forked out and ordered it from MSA. To keep the boot in place I needed a plate. I was able to get a plate from a 260z from a friend. I ordered a leather outer from the same place as Rayapp. To get the VG boot over the RB shifter isolator you just need some lube. Drilling the holes was fine except for the front right corner. The PO cut away some of the tunnel putting in a 280z 5 speed tranny. The hole is very close to the edge, I used a smaller diameter sheet metal screw and won't think about it. I am not going to make any more predictions about when I am going to start the car, I'll just post a video. Bonk

Jakeoster, I have driven and revved (from standstill) an L-series with a lightened flywheel. The engine wraps up incredibly fast. Your application has boost, which I assume causes a similar effect. I wouldn't know my rb swap is still jackstand racing:( Bill

The top of an S30 fuel tank fits snug against the body. Maybe difficult to fit with bosses for fuel lines coming off the top. Not sure what your application is for.

I agree with JohnC. You can't just weld "this to that" and walk away. The flat stock and the cylinder may not even be the same type of metal. The weld gouged the stock pretty bad. 2 cents Bonk

Ryan, If I have to pull the tank because the pump goes out it will be a major pain. I picked the Bosch simply because they are known to be reliable. I think reliability is worth the extra $$. Others may prefer the Walbro. Bonk

Cockerstar, I played around at Rockauto to find a part # for a pump, then went shopping. My reason for doing that was only because I wanted the stock fpr to see the same pump action as the stock configuration, basically tricking it to think it was still in the skyline/stagia. I wouldn't go this route if I had to do it again. I am taking a risk if the pump goes belly up. If I have to replace the pump I will go Bosch and adjust the height of the plumbing accordingly. Bonk

The line is coolant for the turbo. If you are not planning to hook up the throttle body coolant lines ignore the following. I am going to be running the car in colder weather so I teed off this line and am running an arm out to the throttle body. All this does is mimic the coolant pass through on the stock plenum. The other side of the throttle body coolant line runs to a similar nipple on the block coolant intake near the thermostat. Check the third pic in the attached thread. If you are interested and want more pics let me know. WARNING, I haven't started the car yet, so its all theoretical. http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/100497-rb-lockar-throttle-cable/ Bonk

This is what is in my car, looking to fire it in a month or so I will have a report on performance. I took the tank to a shop to have it hottanked, $100 (ouch!). I also had another machinist make me a "nut ring". Got a good deal on that, $40. Use sealant of your choice. Stock R33 pump. http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/94261-bonks-efi-fuel-tank/ Hope that helps. Bonk

Car looks totally straight, if there is only surface rust, you got a good looking S30. Bonk

nthiogen, You may be able to get some good ideas from this thread by rejracer, http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/99528-240z-charging-system-upgrade/ I don't think he had to spend a ton on this upgrade. Bonk

Stony, I cut a Lokar cable to length and used an adjustable cable stop I found in a small hardware bin from Ace Hardware marked "lawn mower" parts. The stop fit into the Nissan throttle body swing arm perfectly. I bought the longer cable size and it was way too long. See my write up in the link below. Bill http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/100497-rb-lockar-throttle-cable/

Trust me I almost just picked up the phone and called MSA, for $250 you can get this http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/SCC02/16-7054. Right now I am working the electrical for the thermostatic switch. Here is what I am going to try, http://www.summitracing.com/parts/HDA-3651/ As far as where to thread in the switch sensor, I found an inline adapter off a 89 240sx that will work with a brass adpater to 1/8th inch NPT. I will post pics soon. Bill

I am pretty sure the power strip came from an end cap at Lowes.

The smaller fan is on the passengers side of the car. I chose the late model Taurus hoping these cars would be around the yards for a while. Maybe someone else can correct me, but I think PicknPull will ship. So you maybe able to request them from somewhere else. The price might negate the benefit. I would try your own yards first, luckily in this case there isn't too much metal on these fans. You might be able to find some in good shape. Bill

Your car is amazing, if you sell it, the buyer should have to pay the piper with big bucks. Bonk

Ray, My setup is identical to yours, Rick Wong Mounts and homemade trans mount. The hole in the tunnel is a bit funky b/c the PO did the 5-speed conversion on the L24. The outer shift boot should fit in the console so it probably doesn't matter. What is your boot going to look like? I might just ask you to order 2 of what ever you are getting. Also I need a shift knob. The after market stuff is lamb, hoping for a regular knob with a standard 5 speed symbol. What are you doing for the knob? Thanks Bill

Those wheels look great. Did you have to make any modifications to get the 9.5 width to fit onto the hub assemblies? I am glad you found the culprit to your head issue. Bill

I am writing to inform everyone on my current plan for cooling fans in my S30 RB25DET swap. I tried fitting the stock clutch fan and didn't like how tight the position was and it was going to make routing the inlet to the radiator a pain so I started looking around for an electric fan solution. I started by building a steel frame out of 16 gage steel box tubing and sized it to enclosed the fins of the radiator. I have a stock replacement radiator that the PO installed. Don't worry your eyes aren't deceiving you, I had the inlet moved over to the other side of the radiator by a shop in Sac. After finding out how $$$ after market electric fans were I started to read the forum for other ideas and came on the 2-speed Taurus fan conversion. Being excited to learn about it I glossed over the fact that it doesn't fit inline 6 cylinder engines because the fan motor is too deep. So back to the drawing board. When we were at PicknPull yanking the 2-speed fan, my buddy Robert (an active member of the forum) noticed that the smaller 3 liter Taurus's have a twin fan set up using smaller shallower fans. The 3 liter Taurus from 98 through 00 have two fans, one about 15-inch radius and a smaller ~13-inch radius. We decided to pull two of the smaller fans from two sperate cars. One very trick thing we noticed about these fans was that they use two rubber feet on the bottom for support and on top are held in by just one bolt. We thought it would be great to try and incorporate this "one-bolt" installation in the z. So we grabbed the rubber supports with the fans. Ok enough talk here is what it all looks like. The plan is after I paint the frame to use foam rubber insulation tape on the back side of the frame to seal its connection with the radiator. We tested the fans and they work well and pull a lot of air. Obviously one major flaw with this set up is a lack of shrouding in the dead spaces of the frame. Time will tell whether that is an issue for proper cooling. I am thinking I may use the same Volvo relay set up as is used on the 2-speed fan set up like the sbc guys. I will keep you posted.

Cons: Has minor rust spots at t-top and surface rust inside engine bay fenders If you have an orbital sander along with elbow grease, try to attack the surface rust first thing. There are several products on the market to deactivate surface rust that will seal over as well. I prefer the Permatex product. My 2 cents Bonk

Following up on what Motoman said, I copied this from Bishopsrock's wiring thread: On my alternator the turquoise with a red band was the 'S' Sensing connection and so I cut this at the plug and extended it to the battery +terminal. Bonk

Motoman, My radiator is simply a replacement 3-row radiator, I believe the PO bought it from MSA. Sounds like the modification I made may have compromised the functional design of the radiator. If I have heating issues (fans running all the time) I will know a likely culprit. Thanks Bonk

Motoman, That is a good observation and worth more than 2 cents. It will come down to how the fluid dynamics/gradients operate in the radiator. Fluid heated by the engine enters the radiator at the top. I think your question is will the heat gradient caused by the incoming fluid extend down to the outlet and affect the cooling potential of the the fluid leaving through the outlet. I don't know the answer. The after market radiators that others are commonly using for this application have similar external plumbing, in that the inlet and outlet are located on the passenger side of the radiator. The question then becomes, do those radiators have different internal plumbing that minimizes the influence of the heated fluid entering from the top. Hopefully others are following this thread and can respond to this question. Thanks Bonk

Hey Andy, Great looking project. I am working on a very similar rb25/s30 project. Very soon I will need to plumb the wiring through the firewall. I would like to use the same setup as yours having the ECU near the glove box. Can you post a pic of where you went through the fire wall with your RB wiring harness? Thanks Bill

Your edit is correct. Its a replacement stock radiator. I had the radiator shop move the inlet over.

With shipping I think it was just under $60 shipped. Its bling, but quality.