T-Bone028

L28, aggressive cam, and learn how to become comfortable with carbs or megasquirt. If this is your only car, then buy a dependable used car to drive to and from wherever you have to go. I PROMISE you that there will be something that breaks that you will have to fix, regardless of what powerplant you decide to go with. Bur back to topic, L28 w cam, header/exhaust, solid ignition, and triples will be plenty fun. I do not think carbs are unreliable; just more...personal. Megasquirt is a good option if you must have efi.

I did not use any rtv or copper spray when I replaced my gasket...I also just tightened down the nuts without using a torque wrench...as said earlier, just don't overdo it. I'm assuming you'll take it to an exhaust shop to connect it to the rest of the exhaust...perfect opportunity to add a O2 bung for a wideband if you don't have one already!

When I ordered, I got a invoice that day and then a follow up email 2 days afterwards asking if I was still going to move forward with the order because I hadn't had a chance to log-in and pay the invoice. I paid it that night, and confirmed via email that it was sent. ZCCJDM told me my heat shield would ship shortly and I would receive tracking info. Waited about a week, and followed up via email on tracking info. I then received an out of office reply saying that he would be out of town for 2-3 weeks. This was in April. I then waited until that time had passed and emailed again near the end of April. 2 days or so later and ZCCJDM then said it was shipping that night and I received tracking info shortly afterwards. Also, the triple carb heat-shield I received was not what was shown on his website...close, but not exactly. Kind of like it was not finished. I'm going to chalk that up to the fact that the part was listed as "universal". There was another part that I ordered at the same time as my original order, that he had lost/misplaced and had to re-order. That part arrived a few weeks after I received the heat-shield. Overall, wasn't the best experience in my opinion, but it is a one man shop and I took that into consideration when I ordered. In the age of Amazon.com and other e-commerce websites that have the order fulfillment process down perfectly, I think we all get a little spoiled and maintain that same level of expectation. I appreciate the ability of ZCCJDM to get jdm stuff and different things than what is available through MSA, and Ill say when I did receive communication it was prompt...but I will probably source parts elsewhere in the future.

If the Starting bid is an accurate reflection of the value of S30's (especially in that condition) then we should all be happy.

Earlier in your posts, you had mentioned if you have to pull the 383, you will also sell the car...I hope this viewpoint has changed! Its always inspiring (and eye-opening) to read through your project pages to view the joys and heartaches of building/owning/driving a race-car. I cant speak from experience (because I dont race), but it would seem that building and then racing a car is a horrible idea...cost, frustration, time commitment, etc. But I do know that despite all the things that break on my Z, I'm never happier then when I finally get it working again and I'm behind the wheel. I can only imagine that the same feeling would be had (if not greater) when a race-car is finally sorted out and everything works as intended for a full race/weekend/season/etc. For extra inspiration (and a nice mental break from the Z) give the book "The Art of Racing in the Rain" by Garth Stein a read...$12 from Amazon. Fictional story, but a great book nonetheless. Lastly, I'm located a short drive from your neck of Virginia....I will humbly take ownership of your Z and provide safe-keeping. Where else would you find someone that will accept a free race-car but the Z community?

I actually came across that metallic orange Z at a recent show...the paint is unbelievable...best part was that the owner did it himself in his backyard! He's in the tidewater Z club in Norfolk va I believe.

There's a cheap option from Spectre called "Magna-Clamps" that you can find from Summit/Jegs/etc. Basically worm-gear type clamp with a flashy cover to make it look like an AN fitting. I've seen some for $6-$10/pair dependent on size. Here's a link for 1-inch diameter. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/spe-3268

Mike to clarify; was the 70 hp loss based on the original spectre Air-Hat/filter combo versus no air-filter/hat? And then 35 hp loss with the less restrictive/taller spectre Air-Hat/Filter combo versus no air-filter/hat?

You can put a filter on the Block breather or ideally run it to a catch can with a breather on the catch can if you really want to eliminate it. I would not block it off...look up pcv evacuation systems on wikipedia to learn more about the function and why they were designed....

From what I understand, the upgrade harness incorporates relays into the headlight circuit, but doesn't necessarily replace the entire headlight wiring harness. Not sure how bad your harness is or what you were looking to accomplish. Try searching Zsondabrain and headlight on classiczcars.com for a more definitive answer if no one else chimes in here.

5/16-18 was what fit into my redline brand intake manifold. You can purchase various lengths with nuts through summitracing for cheap to accommodate the anti-vibe mounts extra 1/4in thickness.

I would also check linkage. Perhaps the linkage arm for the rear carb slipped on the linkage rod?

What happens when you rev the car in neutral? Are you 100% sure your linkage isn't binding in any weird way? What is your timing at idle? Have you checked for synchronization? I'm curious about your statement that you transferred the complete setup from another car...engine swapped over as well? Lots of things could be the culprit to what you say is poor performance...but some More specific descriptions would be great. Such as: "when I'm in first gear at 1500 rpm and give 50% throttle, the car bucks and stalls out" or "in 2nd gear at 2200 rpm, and I floor it, the car stutters for about 1.5 seconds and then will stall out unless I put the clutch in". Etc.

I'm suggesting drilling holes in the airbox, before the air filter, not after. Induction noise should become louder. Would I do it? No. But you originally said you wanted louder and you also said you dont care about performance so.... Essentially, with the DGV's on a Z inline 6, fuel/air mixture goes down, then goes uphill into the intake manifold. With sidedraft carbs, fuel/air is more of a straight path to the motor. So yes, in my opinion it is not an efficient design, and may not yield any better performance over a pair of SU's in good condition. Here's a picture of DGV's with adapters.

Well...I cant recall the exact language of the forum rules, but "there is no best" anything...so "facts" could be construed as opinion depending on how you look at it, who does the interpreting, and ultimately what YOU are after. In my OPINION, I would not buy the DGV's for $250. I would not even pay $50 for DGV's that have been sitting for 20 years in unknown condition that may or may not function as designed by weber even after being rebuilt. Some might say L-engines are better suited for sidedraft carbs...and I would agree. If someone were to give me the option between downdraft carbs and sidedraft carbs for a L-engine, I would choose sidedrafts each time. I would also say you could probably find SU round-top carbs for $250 that are in unknown condition (in fact I have SU carbs in unknown condition with manifold that I would sell to you for $250). If someone were to ask me about my opinion on which performs better on the L-series engine; modern EFI or sidedraft carbs, I would say modern EFI. Interestingly enough, I contradict myself by having triples because thats what I wanted for my car. If I had a budget of $600, I would get the stock EFI running as well as I can, drill some holes in the stock airbox, and buy a new muffler. That would satisfy my itch of being bored while increasing the sound (not necessarily the performance), it would also give me the opportunity to really think about what I ultimately wanted for my car, research how I would do it, and then ask some more detailed questions on the things I'm unsure about.

I believe I have an RX7 oil cooler if you were still looking for one...but it sounds like you're well on your way to getting ready to install.

AZghost, that's awesome, I think I'm running well, but don't have another triple Weber Z to compare it to. Its nice that you and duragg seem geographically very close to each other. Steve, you can buy a replacement top from piercemanifolds, but its for either a 151 or 152 with platstic floats. Part number 31734.198, $98.00. Interesting enough Pierce lists the same carb top part number for both the 40 151 and the 45 152...I would call pierce to just to verify what you are getting before you were to order. I cant recall if you ever listed your 40 DCOE model. I have a 40 dcoe 2, so I'm looking for anything that originally used brass floats. Most tops should be interchangeable, but it would be great if I could find a used 40 dcoe 2 for cheap so everything could match. I actually "fixed" the issue today by using a nail instead of the pivot pin. I cut and filed a nail down to replace the pivot pin, and made it like an interference fit that went into the remaining good float arm pin hole. The other end where the split arm broke off is where the nail head is. It's actually a very tight clearance between where the stock pivot pin sits within the carb body, so if my "new" pin were to move the nail head would help limit movement by pressing itself against the carb body. The float rotates smoothly along the pin/nail and feels secure so I'm happy for now. Took her out for a long spirited drive and everything felt normal. I need to run to the hardware store to pick up a brass nail and redo it though. Just used a regular nail for my very professional R/D. The pivot pin doesn't see any real load (just vibration), so I'm hoping it will be ok while I continue to hunt for a top. From a timing standpoint, I'm at 13 degrees at idle, which should be 31-32 total. Still need a helper to determine where I am timing wise at full advance. I'm using a maxima dizzy with E81-20 module and msd 6a, vacuum advance is disconnected. Keep in mind I'm running a 3.7 LSD...not sure what your rearend gearing is but maybe shorter gearing might help "liven" her up. I'll try to take pics soon of my float arm/pin "fix".

Aside from having a MAJOR problem with my Float pivot pin arm breaking off, today was a step in the right direction. When I initially starting rebuilding my carbs, one of the float pivot pin support arms broke off. I was naive to think JB weld could fix it, but after taking the cover off this afternoon to install "0" pump jet exhaust/spill valves, I saw that the JB weld was peeling off and was ready to fail any day. It now looks like this (not my pic but you get the idea): That was a major downer, especially since I just made all the jetting changes I wanted to try. Here's what I changed today in bold: 36 mm chokes 4.5 aux venturi 145 main (from 135) 170 air F11 etube 40 or 45 pump jet (cant remember) 55F9 idle "0" exhaust/spill valve I quietly cried to myself about the float pivot arm for a while, went back down to the garage and said F**K it and took her out anyways (minus 1 full pivot arm). Upon sudden WOT from a standing start, hesitation/bog was still there but DRAMATICALLY reduced. Wheelspin was apparent and more like a burn-out once I got out of the .25 second bog hole. Yesterday, with the 55 exhaust/spill valve, the bog lasted for about half a second. I think with a larger pump jet (I'm thinking about 55 or 60) I'll be able to make the bog at sudden WOT all but imperceptible. AFR's at WOT were a little too rich with the 145 mains and were in the mid 11's in the middle RPM range, and about 12.2-12.4 at 6-7K RPM. I think I can live with it though until I pick up 140 mains to test. I'm now happy to say I'm very satisfied with making the change from 33's to 36 mm chokes. Very drivable at low speeds with AFR's in the high 12's low 13's, and as long as I dont slam the throttle open it runs just fine at low speed and cruising. I think after I buy larger pump jets, I'll be done for a while. BTW, does anyone have a spare DCOE carb top they want to sell me?

Hey guys, looking for a spare Weber 40/45 DCOE carb top. Any weber DCOE top that uses brass floats should work, so newer style 151/152 that uses plastic floats might not work. Looking for the actual top itself, but willing to buy a whole carb if the price isnt too bad. The split pivot arm that is incorporated into the carb top broke off on one of my carbs, so hoping someone has a spare/junk DCOE with the top in good condition. Please let me know what you have!

I actually purchased a 195 air corrector, but didn't try them out yet. From what I had noticed previously when I followed the main +50 rule, I would go slightly lean in the upper rpms. My config was happy with main +40. hence the 145 main / 185 airs I'll be trying first. I'll report back soon.

Received the 36mm chokes and additional jets I ordered today, and installed them. Ended up trying the F16 e-tubes I had, along with 145 mains, 185 air. Started her up and noticed that the change from 33's gave me a slightly leaner idle, which was good, because I was previously around 11.8 - 12 AFR's at idle, and with the 36mm's I was at about 12.8-13 AFR at idle. I made no changes to my idle jet or idle mixture screw. Cruising idle AFR was better as well. From 1st gear and stomping the throttle, bog was clearly present and she bucked like crazy and then took off. I noticed I no longer had wheelspin in 1st or 2nd, but the car did accelerate marginally quicker through the rev range. Couple of runs to reproduce the bog, and I was able to see I was registering completely lean on the AFR gauge at initial WOT. AFR from 2500 - 7000 was right in the 12.2 - 12.8 range. Which was good. Brought her back into the garage, and switched the F16's out and put in F11 e-tubes, along with putting in 135 mains, and 170 airs because I didnt feel like wrestling to pull out the 145 mains/185 airs in the F16's. Took her back out and did the same tests...at initial and sudden WOT, the bog was still there but not nearly as dramatic as previously. AFR's were in the 13.3 - 14 range. Wheelspin was back in 1st and 2nd gear, and acceleration was very good. As it sits in the garage: 40 dcoe 36 mm chokes 135 mains 170 airs F11 etubes 45 pump nozzle 55 exhaust/bleed back Tomorrow, I'm going to change to: 145 mains 185 airs "0" exhaust/bleed back Hopefully those tweaks will richen the AFR's a bit, and give a little more juice for the initial pump shot. Overall, the change from 33 to 36mm chokes is positive. Feels like faster acceleration through the rev range, and in my experience, it felt dramatically quicker 5500-7000 RPM. At this point, I would say I havent lost anything by switching to the 36's, and streetability at low RPM's and partial throttle is still good. The 36's definitely brought back the bog that I had previously tuned out, but I'm hoping with some more tuning, I can improve the initial WOT response further and get a little more power with a slightly richer AFR. I'll give a deeper review after I make some more jetting changes. Cheers!

Fubarl33t, dont get me wrong, its easy for me to tell you what might be cool to see (since I'm not the one doing the work or spending the money to produce it). Just happy to hear we may have another induction option in the future.

Thanks Leon, I'll check out Zedyone's post. AZGhost...I do have an AFR gauge hooked up, but I have yet to set it up for data logging (need to buy DB9 cable and USB adaptor). I'll have to find some open road and try flooring it from 1300-1500 RPM in 4th or 5th gear to try and look at the AFR's at that initial RPM range. I have F16 E-tubes sitting on the bench to compare to the F-11's I currently have installed. I'm actually waiting on 36mm chokes, 145 mains, and 195 airs to be delivered this week so I have a lot of work/tuning this weekend.

Leon, when you say "wake-up the car", do you mean the response below ~2500 RPM? I find it feels like the main fuel circuit is where all my power is (VTEC just kicked in Yo), almost like thats when the cam comes alive when at WOT...but I'm wondering if that has to do with the idle jet/progression. I guess its hard to explain. Best example, nail the throttle at 1500 RPM in 1st gear, car doesnt buck and it smoothly accelerates, but the tires start breaking loose around 2500 RPM for me. When you say wakes up the car on the low-end, in your experience did you find the hypojets to increase the low-end butt-dyno power delivery?

And lastly, if you're interested in fabrication work, reproduction maxima brackets for rear drum to disk swaps would be sweet! Still a lot of interest in them based on feedback in one of the topics under the group buy sub-forum.