T-Bone028

Sounds like its time to rebuild the combo-switch. Relatively easy...just make sure you work in a well lit area with lots of room...the little ball and springs in the switch are easy to lose. I would also consider buying the headlight relay kit from MSA...or you can go DIY and splice relays in.

I would agree with the price of triples. I got an almost complete set-up from the PO. After rebuilding myself, buying supplies, misc linkage parts, jets, venturis, air horns, filters, etc - I was in close to $1000. And I already owned the carbs and manifold! They are fantastic though, and the nostalgic look/sound/power of triples in a Z made it worth it. However, modern EFI will beat carbs any day of the week.

Another tip, if you havent already, keep hitting all the intake/exhaust manifold bolts you see with PB blaster. I made sure I applied PB blaster (or a similar penetrating oil) in the morning and the evening for about 3 days. Last thing you want is to deal with a snapped bolt in the head.

It's impressive that some of you can determine horsepower and how streetable a car can be from watching a YouTube video. Nothing wrong with being skeptical, but there's also nothing wrong with taking someone's word. Some 6-cylinder grocery getters are rated at +300 hp...I don't think soccer moms across the country are driving white knuckled into parking lots.

American classic car insurance: $200/year agreed upon value $15k. Classic car insurance is the way to go, even with the stipulations. Biggest requirement is that the vehicle must be garaged...difficult if you rent. I bought a house specifically so I would have a garage. Also, if you register the car as classic, you can't use the vehicle for daily use anyways, so that point is almost moot (in VA). My total yearly ownership cost is $201/year. I have to pay $1.00 a year in registration tax to the county....love how cheap it's been to own!

Do not get discouraged! copious carb cleaner, rebuild kits, and reading will pay you back in spades. If its running now, there's no reason you can't help it make it run better.

Steve, I think another method could be to buy some timing tape or make some additional markings, and get a friend to help measure timing at all in. Set the timing for max, and let idle timing fall wherever it may be.

lazeum, I had a similar issue when I went from 33's to 36 mm main venturis. To get good throttle response, I had to go up to a 55F9 idle, but I was running rich at cruising speed. Switched to a 50F9, and my cruising AFR was acceptable (in the 13's) but my transition to WOT had a huge stumble. I ended up changing my exhaust bleed valve from a 50 to a "0" exhaust bleed to get a longer pump shot and help bridge the transition from idle to main circuit. It helped dramatically. Currently, my pump jet is a 40, but I think a 50 or 55 would serve me better to get a bigger pump shot. The pump jet circuit exhaust bleed valves are only like $5 from piercemanifolds, and you only need 3 of them! If it helps, then you can consider changing pump jets accordingly. Definitely worth a "shot" (pardon the pun).

Have you asked Eiji for some advice? If he built the engine, then I'm sure he would be willing to give you a couple of opinions on varying directions you could go to get the most out of it. Personally, though I know EFI/Megasquirt would be more precise...theres something awesomely nostalgic about a straight six with triples. They really arent as troublesome as some say, and they are absolutely intoxicating.

You can always buy stack filters if you like to be able to show off the air horns....personally, though I do like the look of just air horns, I chose to use K&N filters for peace of mind.

Lazeum, that would definitely concern me going that lean at what appears to be 5800-6000 rpm. I don't believe it is necessarily related to main Venturi size though...32 mm main venturi should run richer than a 36 mm main venturi if mains and airs are unchanged. what is your main, air, and etube? I know this may not be the correct way to do it, but decreasing the size of your airs should make you slightly richer on the top end. I'm sure Leon could chime in on some of Keith Francks designs that might address your issue... I believe you are running mega jolt correct? What is your timing in that range? Do you run a fuel return line and/or a fuel pressure regulator? I believe the carter unit suggests that it is internally regulated, but I wonder if you would see more consistency with a FPR after the last carb in a system with a fuel return line. Just spit-balling over here.

The air bypass screw and throttle position screw (not the technical term...can't remember) should be two different adjustments. Lining up the throttle plate with the first progression hole is a carb off the engine setting, done on your workbench. Match them up all the same. Set idle mixture screw at 3 or 3.5 turns from fully seated (I believe the 152's have a finer idle mixture screw vs older dcoe's)...exact number of turns for "normal" settings should be available on the internets...I have the older model so I can't say for sure. Air bypass should be closed. Try to fire her up...you may find that your RPM's are really high or low. Use best lean idle method to try and get mixture right...or possibly back the throttle plate off a little if the RPMs are REALLY high. Use your sychrometer to match the highest flowing barrel to the lowest. Last adjustment should be air bypass. You may find yourself fiddling w everything over and over again initially. This is where a $150 investment in a wideband O2 sensor really pays off. Tuning DCOE's aren't bad once you get the hang of them. Disclaimer: I'm sure someone else out there has a more thorough process...I'm just going off basic memory.

I believe thats the air-bypass screw...comes on 151's and 152's...should normally be closed and should be final adjustment for synchronization. Its on both barrels, correct? You can see it in the exploded view on piercemanifolds website. http://www.piercemanifolds.com/category_s/305.htm should be #25-27, as well as here: http://www.carburetion.com/Weber/Tech/dcoe_adjustment_layout_typical_i.htm

Depending on the condition of the current paint (i.e. it doesnt need a repaint, maybe just a buff and polish)...with yellow I would consider a Tan interior as Sideways suggested. I think that would be a very classy color combo...IMO. Good luck!

My best unsolicited advice, be patient and wait for a clean, minimal rust Z to pop up in your budget...I wouldnt even necessarily be worried if it were a 240/260/280Z if I were putting in a RB but thats just me (plus, you would be surprised how often plans change)...I would be rewiring and redoing fuel lines regardless if it were my project, and a 240 chassis can always be strengthened with frame rails from Bad Dog if thats what you're concerned about. Another option if you really have to travel a far way away...borrow/beg/steal a truck with a trailer hitch and rent a trailer from u-haul that is local to the Z you want to purchase. Drive to the location, check out the car, rent the trailer if warranted, and trailer it back to NoVA. Drop the trailer off at the local u-haul once you're done. Nothing would make me more nervous than driving a 40 year old car 7-10 hours that I'm unfamiliar with (i.e. BRAKES). I did what I described when I picked up my Z in Norfolk VA. Best of luck to you.

I've looked into this as well, but couldn't figure out a way to mount it to the throttle rod on my triple carb setup so I never bought it. From what I read about it and from a logic standpoint, it should make tip-in and initial throttle movements easier to manipulate. I say go for it as long as you think you can attach it to the TB. ~$40 isn't much if it works and improves drivability, but then again it's your money!

I don't see anything wrong with pulling your numbers matching L24, freshen it up and confirming it's in good order, and then storing it very well in your garage for later. Is numbers matching a vanity or value thing? I would imagine if you were a purist, you would not modify your numbers matching block at all. Not trying to make a dig at you or blast you, just trying to understand your purpose. If it's about having a square motor...i would say that the L engine has been around for a long time. There is a reason why there are more strokers and turbocharged 2.8's than square L24's. Nothing wrong in going with the crowd. However, if you must, try searching for Dizeased (or something like that) on classiczcars.com. I can't recall for sure, but he might have done something similar to what you are describing (or at least stayed w the L24 block)

No major modification needed...I believe you just unscrew the old off, and screw on the blanking plate. However, I dont think this is really necessary, unless you want it for aesthetics. Just make sure the chokes are set in the off position. They arent going anywhere. FYI, you can also buy plates from piercemanifolds.com

Pretty cool...is that a slip in style or bolt-in?

I think you need to verify TDC and re-mark for 0...if you search a bit, some folks have seen similar issues with timing marks being off.

My daily driver is currently a 2011 Xterra (which I love other than the MPG), and before that, it was a 2002 Sentra SE-R SpecV (very fun car, horrible engine quality). If the Z is meant for a fun weekend car, and you want reliable daily transportation with good gas mileage, then I wouldnt even bother with any of the cars you originally listed. Not that they are necessarily bad, just that I find VW/Audi's of that year range to be HORRIBLE quality wise with electrical gremlins out the wazoo. I have a 2002 Jetta 1.8T that I let me girlfriend drive and that thing sucks. As said earlier, the 240sx/MR2/Prelude's are going to be challenging to find unmolested. I would honestly look at the Ford Focus as suggested (SVT or even just a regular focus ST or even a base model) and you really cant go too wrong with a Honda for reliability and cheap parts. If it were me, a maxima or altima with the VQ35 would be my choice for used cars.

Eric, PM sent on a possible lead

Btw, it would take $50K for me to sell my Z, or heaven forbid someone in my family needing medical help and I had no other option. These Z's ARE worth $25k-up... the rest of the world just hasn't realized it.

Sadly, although Iconic, my personal opinion is that the Z is not super collectible like the mopars, Chevys, and Fords you see on Mecum Auto Auctions going for tens of thousands of dollars. I've even seen an episode where a clean 280z with low miles in excellent condition went for 12k-ish. That being said, a $25k Z has to be quite the show stopper for me to consider it as a fair price. I just don't think there is a big market for restoring/hot-rodding/reselling Z's here in the U.S....but if some of the Internet hearsay is true, maybe we can sell them to back to japan!

Search forums for McMaster Carr for door weatherstripping. I used it with GREAT success.